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11-22-2014, 02:20 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 11
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Where to put a jack on a '61 Overlander
I need to jack up my 61 to replace the axles. Where do I place the jack and Jack stands so I can have the room to work. Anyone have a photo of where the jack goes?
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11-22-2014, 02:49 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Since you mentioned axles (tandem). Use a stack of 2x8 blocks cut in such a way to make ramps with a flat area on top. Pull or back the coach (1 axle) onto the ramps. Replace the opposite axle. Then reverse the process.
No jacks or stands required. No risk of the coach falling on you.
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11-22-2014, 02:51 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
Since you mentioned axles (tandem). Use a stack of 2x8 blocks cut in such a way to make ramps with a flat area on top. Pull or back the coach (1 axle) onto the ramps. Replace the opposite axle. Then reverse the process.
No jacks or stands required. No risk of the coach falling on you.
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Yes indeed, as I have promoted that for many years.
Safety should never be compromised.
Andy
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11-23-2014, 06:00 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,462
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Hello,
I jack up my 66 and my 86 from the axle mounting plates at a point between the two axles. I use my floor jack to lift the trailer just high enough to remove the wheels. Then I place my jack stand at a point just behind the rear axle.
Now I go to the other side of the trailer and do the same thing. To get the trailer higher, I continue lifting with my floor jack until I can lift my jack stand another position, and then let the floor jack down slowly to the trailer rests on the jack stand at the higher position, and then return to the other side and do the same thing. I lift the trailer slowly, and in about 2" increments going from one side to the other.
I adjust the tongue jack as I go. I maintain a "nose down" attitude as I lift the trailer.
I only expose about 3" of the jack stand. I will use solid concrete blocks under the jack stands if I need to go higher. I don't want any wobbly with the trailer in the air.
Finally I use my four old aluminum stabilizers between the floor and frame at at the front and rear of the trailer. I screw them up tight to the frame. This helps stabilize the trailer as I step in and walk around inside.
I have used this method for years, and have installed new belly pans and axles while laying on my back under the trailer. I feel it is safe. But I am always open to learning new things.
David
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11-23-2014, 07:38 AM
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#5
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216
Hello,
I jack up my 66 and my 86 from the axle mounting plates at a point between the two axles. I use my floor jack to lift the trailer just high enough to remove the wheels. Then I place my jack stand at a point just behind the rear axle.
Now I go to the other side of the trailer and do the same thing. To get the trailer higher, I continue lifting with my floor jack until I can lift my jack stand another position, and then let the floor jack down slowly to the trailer rests on the jack stand at the higher position, and then return to the other side and do the same thing. I lift the trailer slowly, and in about 2" increments going from one side to the other.
I adjust the tongue jack as I go. I maintain a "nose down" attitude as I lift the trailer.
I only expose about 3" of the jack stand. I will use solid concrete blocks under the jack stands if I need to go higher. I don't want any wobbly with the trailer in the air.
Finally I use my four old aluminum stabilizers between the floor and frame at at the front and rear of the trailer. I screw them up tight to the frame. This helps stabilize the trailer as I step in and walk around inside.
I have used this method for years, and have installed new belly pans and axles while laying on my back under the trailer. I feel it is safe. But I am always open to learning new things.
David
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Everything we do is a compromise. Obviously, the best and safest thing to do to lift and support something while you are under it is solid steel or wood, but most of us don't have the resources to make that happen. Every time you stack something on top of something, you add to potential instability. Everything about the way you have your trailer jacked up looks as reasonable as possible, with the exception of the tongue. Is there any way you could reduce the number of "things" stacked under the tongue jack? Or at least have the "things" be wider, so they offer less chance of wobbling?
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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11-23-2014, 09:19 AM
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#6
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CHIEF THINGAMAJIG FIXER
1964 26' Overlander
bugtussel
, South Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216
Hello,
I jack up my 66 and my 86 from the axle mounting plates at a point between the two axles. I use my floor jack to lift the trailer just high enough to remove the wheels. Then I place my jack stand at a point just behind the rear axle.
Now I go to the other side of the trailer and do the same thing. To get the trailer higher, I continue lifting with my floor jack until I can lift my jack stand another position, and then let the floor jack down slowly to the trailer rests on the jack stand at the higher position, and then return to the other side and do the same thing. I lift the trailer slowly, and in about 2" increments going from one side to the other.
I adjust the tongue jack as I go. I maintain a "nose down" attitude as I lift the trailer.
I only expose about 3" of the jack stand. I will use solid concrete blocks under the jack stands if I need to go higher. I don't want any wobbly with the trailer in the air.
Finally I use my four old aluminum stabilizers between the floor and frame at at the front and rear of the trailer. I screw them up tight to the frame. This helps stabilize the trailer as I step in and walk around inside.
I have used this method for years, and have installed new belly pans and axles while laying on my back under the trailer. I feel it is safe. But I am always open to learning new things.
David
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Ever seen a cinder block explode? I personally would not get under that trailer for anything. Osb board across cinder blocks a disaster waiting to happen
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11-23-2014, 09:25 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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I use wooden ramps and leave the coach hitched to either my tractor or the TV with the parking brake set. I just don't have faith in jack stands etc.. Especially when working outside. If the wind would come up, the whole rig could come tumbling down.
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11-23-2014, 09:44 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,462
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All good safety points. Thanks guys.
David
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