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Old 01-26-2019, 01:40 AM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 104
Where to place jack stands on a gutted airstream

Iíve got a near-gutted 76 Overlander that Iím gonna attempt a shell-on restoration on. I want to get this thing on jack stands if possible to repair the frame a buy new axles. Assuming I have all the weight off minus the shell and frame, where should I place the jackstands to keep this thing supported for an extended period? Also, are 2 ton stands enough? I have a pair of 2 ton and a pair of 3 ton.

Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:49 AM   #2
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
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Sorry no direct answer to your questions, but have you read the Love Shack thread, relative to your plan to keep the shell attached to the frame?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...ck-183431.html

Great photos and sense of humor IMO!

One thing can definitely lead to another . . .



Good luck,

Peter
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Old 01-26-2019, 08:54 AM   #3
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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I would place them on the frame where your axles bolt up. Leave the old axles on until the frame repairs are done (assuming that section doesn't need replacement). Have a discussion with the person who does the repairs. They may have other preferences.

I would get a pair of stabilizers for the rear corners and leave the tongue jack on. This would allow you to level the frame in preparation for the frame repairs. If your 2 ton vs. 3 ton jacks aren't the same height you'll probably have to shim the shorter set. Of course you may have to shim from side to side depending on how level your work site is.

That's my take on doing it. I just like the stability of having the frame well supported.
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:16 PM   #4
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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When you say "shell on restoration," do you mean that you are replacing the subfloor, and repairing the frame, but just not completely lifting the shell?

If so, then the answer to your question is that you need to level the trailer, and then place jackstands along the main frame rails to support it along the entire length. I would say at least 4 stands per frame rail, one toward each end, and one fore and aft of the axles.

This is because the frame supports the shell, and the shell supports the frame. You will need to break the connection between the two to replace the subfloor, so the idea is to keep everything as close to the neutral "starting point" as you can.

The stands you have are more than adequately rated.

good luck!
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:36 PM   #5
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1977 31' Sovereign
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Sunset Valley , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2016
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I used 2-tons and screw jacks/supports. What I did was determine the height I wanted based on the 2-ton stands as they have big increments, made all those the same height then lined up two of the 2-tons and a screw jack and leveled with a straight 2x4 across all 3. If my straight 2x4 was touching all three, they were the same height. I did that with all my stands. Then went around with a scissor jack and placed my preset stands along each frame rail.

Jack stands are cheap, I would buy 8 of the same kind and a scissor jack if I didn’t already have what I have.

Hope that makes sense.
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:57 PM   #6
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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I've had my 75 Overlander on jack stands for over a year while I work on it. I know, I know, I'm slower than a three toed sloth.

I use two 3 ton jack stands located on the frame rail, behind the axle plate. I use the tongue jack for the third weight bearing support. And like Iansk, I use those cheap 2 ton aluminum screw jack "stabilizers" at each corner to stabilize the trailer while I jump around inside. My frame rail bottoms are about 20" off the floor. I can get under the trailer with my creeper no problem.

David
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Old 01-27-2019, 03:26 PM   #7
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1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
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Thanks guys. I think I’ll buy some more jack stands and maybe a couple scissor jacks. I already have two floor jacks. How would you guys recommend I lift this thing? Jack up one side, place jacks underneath, then jack the other side up?

Would it seem reasonable to jack up one side of the trailer with two floor jacks and then lower it onto four stands? Then do the other side?
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Old 01-27-2019, 05:22 PM   #8
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I scissor jacked at each location I was inserting a stabilizer, slid it in and lowered the scissor jack. I did use a small block of cribbing between the jack/stabilizer and frame, 1x4 to act as a cushion of sorts.
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:57 PM   #9
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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I use my floor jack located on the axle plate in between the tires. I lift it until the tires will rotate and then maybe an inch more. Then I position just the big jack stand behind the rear axle on the frame rail close to the axle mounting plate and lower the floor jack. I remove the wheels and tires at this time for good visibility and floor jack clearance.

Then I move to the other side and repeat. I jack each side about 2 to 3" at a time. I hear some pops and growns from the trailer when I do this.

Again, I use a "milk stool" three point support as it is very stable. Two jack stands and the tongue jack. The stabilizers are there for safety, but don't have a lot of weight on them.

David
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See my 1969 Globetrotter 21' Renovation Project:
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See my 1966 Trade Wind 24' Reno Project:
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See my 1975 Overlander 27' Improvement Journal:
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See our 1976 Sovereign 31' Renovation Project:
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:06 AM   #10
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Portland , Arizona
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How did it go? Did you lift and have success?

I'm where you are
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:29 AM   #11
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
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Just me....every Winter.

For a restore I would add two stands on the rear frame skid rail.

Bob
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