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Fyrzowt · 12-02-2006, 11:00 PM

There are times when I feel like one.

shinybean · 12-03-2006, 12:16 PM

Thanks for the tips. It's good to know the right way to do something...

SmokelessJoe · 12-03-2006, 01:14 PM

Shinybean:

You have the right idea. Jack it up at the axle mounting plates.

You can insert I beams, plate-to-plate, and use jack stands.

You can also weld up support frames if you are going to being doing extensive work under the trailer.

That is the way we did it. Photos below explain.

Sergei

Easyriser · 12-04-2006, 12:41 PM

I have recently purchased a 1996 AS 30 Ft Excella. Can anyone assist with the size of pole jack to change a tire? They are sold in 2,4,6,8 ton etc. My GVW is 8300 Lbs. I was thinking of a 6 ton. I am aware of the AS method of using 2X8 boards but wanted to get a jack just in case.

All the best,

SilverToy · 12-04-2006, 03:38 PM

Hi Easy!

Welcome! Hope that your 'new to you' AS gives you as much joy as nearly everyone here gets out of thier units!

As to jacking, for tire replacement, bearing work, or whatever - be sure to use the 'Search' button in the upper right corner, as there is a LOT to know about jacking AS's, and just as much to know that is WRONG about jacking AS's...!!! Knowing the particulars can save a lot of time, aggrivation and $!!!

I would say that a 6T should easily handle nearly all your AS jacking needs, but then a 8T is only a few $ more, not significantly larger, and can certainly handle anything that the 6 could do and then some..... Not that more is better!?!

Just be sure that you know where to jack and then do it safely! Enjoy.

Axel

markdoane · 12-04-2006, 04:51 PM

I would try to test the bottle jacks before you buy. Sometimes they have the same size pump and different size hydraulic cylinders.

This means the larger capacity jacks require a lot more pumping strokes to raise the jack the same distance. That and the fact that the larger jacks are heavier and harder to muscle around leads me to recommend you get the smallest one that will do the job.

Under ideal conditions, I think a 2T will probably work. Get the 4T to be sure.

LI Pets · 12-04-2006, 04:55 PM

Ok, you are only jacking one part of the weight, take off the tongue wgt - 1,000, 7300 lbs lifting one side 3650.

so a 2 ton is plenty.

Easyriser · 12-05-2006, 06:47 AM

Many thanks folks. Your guidance is much appreciated.

pmclemore · 12-10-2006, 01:21 PM

Easy,

I had to change two flats on the side of the road on my last trip - I gotta say that it was great not to have to fool with a jack. Just drop two blocks, pull up on them and change the tire. Couldn't be more stable.

But I guess the most important thing is to test your jack in your driveway just to make sure it is right.

Pat

SnoSheriff · 07-20-2009, 05:04 PM

I just made these out of 2x8 board. 2x24", 2x16", 2x12". This was very cheap and easy solution that works great.

**Action** · 07-20-2009, 05:18 PM

I think I will not use my hand when I run my trailer up the boards!

Action

Wingeezer · 07-20-2009, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie

Trailer bearings IMHO (and I know of many others that agree and disagree) should be repacked every 2-3 years, sooner if you put a lot of miles on them. Trailer axles go through very high stresses and loads and they can sit for months on end. One can't compare a car/SUV to a trailer axle. Two totally different animals, even though the mechanics are the same or similar.

It's been said somewhere on this forum that you should NOT attach your jack to the axle mounting brackets...that's not what they are for....additionally, if I read correctly, the axle beam, I am thinking that might be the axle shaft itself, the one that has a curve? If it is, that too is a big NO NO. Newer Airstreams have the correct mounting points shown on the bottom. Can't find them, can't RTFM or have one? Call Airstream and be crystal clear on the proper location before jacking up that coach. Doing the wrong thing can and has stressed the shell, and thrown many shells out of wack. The shell is more than just the walls and roof of the coach, it's a major supporting structure that helps carry and balance the loads. Folks have found first hand how real testy the shell can be if the stabilizer jacks are torqued too much, imagine jacking the whole weight up on the wrong area? You could have more than a door that is hard to close. Anyone recall the 2004 Airstream axle recall? Improper grease and/or grease levels were seperating entire wheels from axles. Both these questions are excellent questions and proceedures should be done with great care.

On an quasi related note, trailer tires should also be replaced after 3 years.

My personal feeling also - based on my own past experience of observing bearings at one year intervals - is that 2-3 years should be reasonable as you suggest.

Just about every source I have ever read however (including my AS manual) seems to say one year. I still wonder if this is necessary or just overkill (or a CYA statement).

As for tires though, I was surprised at your comment about changing them after three years.

I think that is the shortest lifespan I have read - I though common wisdom was around the 7-8 year range and that is what i was thinking to do on our present trailer.

On our last trailer (non AS) I left the tires on for at least ten
years (tsk tsk!) and paid the price when they all started flying apart on me half way across Texas one winter!

I really should have known better, but I just kept looking at them and they had plenty of tread and no indication of sidewall cracks. I have now learned that you cannot always tell what is going on inside by an external examination! (ie delamination of the tread which is what happened in my case).

I was very lucky not to damage the trailer - or worse.

I felt vibration in the tow vehicle and when I next stopped for gas and took a closer look, I found a full width chunk of tread over a foot long was completely missing from one tire and tread was starting to separate on two others! No loss of pressure on any of the tires.

Becasue of this close call, I vowed to replace my present tires when they hit seven years age no matter how good they may look!

Based on what you say, maybe I should rethink! Can you tell me where you got the three year rue of thumb, or is it just your own personal guideline?

I have recently read that there is a four digit # on the tire that indicates week and year of manufacture. (for example 3607 would mean the 36t week of 2007) My trailer isn't at my house so I haven't checked yet - but I sure will be doing!

Cheers ....... Brian.

Wingeezer · 07-20-2009, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmclemore

Easy,

I had to change two flats on the side of the road on my last trip - I gotta say that it was great not to have to fool with a jack. Just drop two blocks, pull up on them and change the tire. Couldn't be more stable.

But I guess the most important thing is to test your jack in your driveway just to make sure it is right.

Pat

I tried this recently for the first time when I brought the trailer home to check the wheel bearings - sure works slick doesn't it! I guess I bought that bottle jack for nothing! I used a pyramid of the orange plastic "Leggo" levellers (Lynx Levellers I think is the brand name.)

No more hydraulic jacks for me although since I have it, I guess I will still carry the jack just in case I run into some set of circumstances where I cannot use the levellers - or if I have trouble with my tongue jack and need to take the load off it to resolve.

Brian.

**Action** · 07-20-2009, 10:58 PM

Brian,

You copied a post that the wrter stated replace the bearing every 3 years not repack.

Also that writer's recommended tire replacement schedule is only his recommendation. There is no published service life for tires that I am aware of.

Lastly, you are correct on tire date codes. And they used to be 3 digits, until recently the requirement is 4. Previously the last digit was the year. NOw it is the last 2 digits are the year.

Action