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Old 09-06-2012, 05:32 PM   #1
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
Del Gurney's Avatar
 
1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
Undercarriage Rehab

Ok, I know this is small time compared to many of the intrepid and dedicated A.S. restorers but I've just jumped into:

A) dis-assembling the weight distribution hitch and having sand-blasted and powder coated.

B) removing the stabilizer jacks and spare tire holder and ditto like above.

C) Prep. and paint the accessible parts of the under-carriage ie: Axel/tongue/bumper bracket.

As you can see from the pic, I'm well into it.

This is a '05 t.t. (sold in '06 with only one change of tires) and I've found out so far::::
1)ALL the nuts/bolts were frozen so I let'm soak in penetrating oil for a week and delayed the job. And STILL snapped off two mounting bolts for the jacks!!

2)The "sewage hose" tube is through bolted through the banana wrap so I'll have to work around it.

3)The little light at the sewage outlet was shot so I'll have to replace it....with some thing better.

I'll have to replace all the nuts and bolts with galvanized unless anyone can give me reason not to. (and bed in teflon gel)

I'll post more pics as I progress.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:24 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Del Gurney View Post
I'll have to replace all the nuts and bolts with galvanized unless anyone can give me reason not to. .
Replace them all with stainless steel . . . because you can . . .

`
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:36 PM   #3
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Del! I just finished this very thing. A frame sandblast and refinish with Urethane 2 part primer and basecoat and 2 part clear coat, same for Hensley hitch parts, painted all visible parts of frame and axles, calipers, etc. Sandblasted Bal Jacks and repainted. Remounted EVERYTIHING that contacts steel and aluminum with stainless fasteners. Remounted the jacks with a stainless steel washer stack standoff so there is no contact between the steel jack and the aluminum belly (I found a disturbing amount of galvanic corrosion there). I actually am experimenting with 1 nylon washer between the stainless ones and the belly pan.

Glad to be done, a lot more work than I thought. 11 hours just sandblasting!
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:33 AM   #4
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
Hi dznf0g: How did you manage to do the sand blasting of frame etc? Did you have a easier means of getting under your TT other than laying on you back with few inches of clearance. I was thinking of the wire wheeling, sanding and cursing methode.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:17 AM   #5
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Hi, Del. I did all the hitch and stabilizer parts in a home made blast box at my friend's manufacturing plant with a huge (maybe 200 gallon, twin cylinder, 240V compressor). For the A-frame I pulled the AS over to the plant and ran a hose out the door, and got really dirty. I wore a respirator and goggles and made a real mess. I did use a large sheet of plastic so I could recover and reuse the meduim. I lost about 40#s of medium through the whole process.

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Old 09-08-2012, 09:36 AM   #6
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
Looks awesome!! I've taken my small parts for the BALjack etc about 1mile up the road to a sand blast/powder coat place. Maybe I'll ask them for an estimate to do what you did and tell them it took you 11hrs of sand blasting. At maybe $20/hr + media I might be in to it for 1,500. Ouch.
By the way, I went to the Seattle AS dealer yesterday to get my exterior gaskets (which rusted out), new sky light and Fantastic fan plexi-cover (both of which are shot, they said they're only good for 4-6 years depending on how much sun they get.)
So I noticed a couple things on the '12 and '13 models. One: Patio lights are now an option (I only saw one on the top of the line TT they had) but at least they've gone away from the old crappy step and patio lights. Two: They've introduced a narrower plastic chrome trim between the upper and lower body shell sections that matches the one covering the banana wrap and lower body section but it's half the width. But most of all I noticed that they were all already rusting on the underframe. They really should do a better job on that issue considering the hell you went through (and I'm about to). Here's a pic of the marine grade patio light I refitted on to my TT. I replaced both and I like how I can have red or white at 4 different intensity settings.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:10 AM   #7
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Nice light Del. Be careful with the red light....some folks might start knocking at the door thinking some "ladies" have a business going!
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:02 PM   #8
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
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dznF0g (or any one)

Need a bit of help here.
Just drilled out all the rivit's holding the rear belly pan in place and dropped the water tank.
Problem is I can't get the pan out because it seem pinched in place by the alex bolt-on channel.
Do I really have to jack it up and losen the axel bolt to remove the pan????
What a mission that will be!!
Rust is'ent too bad but the Banana Wrap's going to have to come off also.
Thanks
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:58 PM   #9
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
Update: As no one answered the above I did what I thought I'd have to to DROP the aft section of Belly Pan.....
1) Jack up one side of the trailer at a time:
2) Loosten the Axel Bolt mounts
3) Pry the Alex Plate away from the Body Frame and then re-tighten the bolt and gently lower the trailer (the mounting bolt holes on the Axel Plate have about 1/2" oblong hole)
3) Slide the last 3" of Belly Pan out and then it all comes free:
WOW: what a PIA that was.
NEXT QUESTION: I've been through darn near every post on Black and Grey Tank dropping till I'm dizzy but can not find a detailed blow by blow description.
My concern is breaking some thing like a drain from sink/shower/ etc.
I used the BAL jacks that I've had Powder Coated (up-side-down) to lower the Fresh Water Tank so can do the same for the rest gently.
I've found practically NO insulation under the floor...weird.
Thanks if you can answer my question (post pics when I've finished painting aft section of frame)
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:29 PM   #10
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Pic's of painted portion

Ok! Just finished painting all the frame, out riggers, axels well everything aft of the two axels.
Paint will be dry in a couple hours and then I can start the insulation installation and replace the belly pan, banana wraps etc..
Then drop the black/grey tank and everything forward of the axels....should go faster (I hope) Here's pics
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:41 PM   #11
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You're to be commended. Few would even consider such work on a "brand new" TT of this type. Yet you are right to have been so thorough!!

Are you going with DOW Super Tuff R insulation?

While part of me looks forward to dropping the under-cover of my "new" (to me, 1990 model) TT for re-insulation to higher standard and fixing openings to keep vermin out, the other part knows that is a helluva job. At the age of mine I might go with new tanks, etc. Factory optional larger water capacity would be added.

Still, . . . .

.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:56 AM   #12
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Very nice.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:04 PM   #13
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
Rednax: I'm using standard 3/4" styrofoam from Lowes....it has to go in in two pcs. per section between frames b'cuz the frames are "C" channel and I've cut slightly over size so the insulation "bows" away from the ply wood to keep it dry and air can move around due to holes in the frames.

I had to do this job because I noticed an alarming amount of rusty metal for a TT this age.
The factory paint job is sub-standard...1 coat of cheap paint.
The aluminium belly pan is in contact with the rust creating galvanic action and there were several very obvious gaps in the wheel wells that shot water right in to the belly pan. Un believable, that's all I have to say.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:11 PM   #14
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
Mind the Gap(s)!

Here is why everyone should check the interface between the wheel well's and belly wraps.
Also where your step-well is.
I've found no sealant at the out-riggers and this causes everything from dirt, bugs and water getting in and rusting out the frame.
Here's a pic to prove the point.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:16 PM   #15
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
 
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1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Almost done!

Almost done!!!
Here's latest pics....
I re-designed the bumper storage area b'cuz:
1) it's the single most complained about issue with AS's REAR END SEPARATION/ROT.
2) I wanted more room
3) I never want to do this job over again

So. A) Remove piano hinge from bumper access hatch.
B) Remove bumper (mine was gouged so painted with truck bed liner, black)
C) Prep and paint every thing.
D) Install drawer pull's on frame channel.
E) Fab and install marine ply bumper inserts to create barrier...install outboard of
frame channel....caulk and fasten into bumper.
F) Cut Alum. pce. to replace piano hinge.
G) Assemble and provide gaskets above and below bumper.
Mean while get a Sport Fish rod holder and make to fit below (but above grounding off sets.
done
Here are also pics of the front of trailer with painted rock guards...they had too many pittings to look good any more.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:14 PM   #16
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That looks nice!
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:28 PM   #17
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Very nice! Thanks for photos and descriptions.
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:30 AM   #18
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Verry nice!
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:56 AM   #19
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Great job!
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