Trailer rolled while disconnecting from TV

[Acheron2010]

I was tired.
Pulled into a camp, got my assigned compressed gravel site, and encountered a 4 degree uneven campsite. Got out the Anderson leveling blocks, rolled up full to one side. Installed an X-Chock on one side, and proceeded to disconnect the trailer.
Jacked up the front, removed the sway bars, lowered, flipped up the ball connector, jacked up, and when the trailer disconnected, it rolled forward about 4 inches until it rammed the back of my hitch and bumper. Scared the heck out of me.
Did I say I was tired?

Got to looking around, and noticed the following issues.
I leveled the trailer, but did not jam a leveling block on the other side to prevent trailer roll.
I used a broken X-Chock, and failed to inspect this device before installing. See picture. The bottom lock nut had fallen out of the bottom connecting bolt, and I was not getting any torque out of this device to prevent tire rotation.
In my 3 years of full-timing, I never bothered to inspect the X-Chocks for loose fasteners.

Lessons learned. Follow a checklist, especially when you are tired. Take your time when encountering uneven campsites and using leveling blocks. Ensure wheels are secured from rotation front and back. Periodically inspect all ground gear, clean, lube and tighten as necessary. Two is one, one is none.

[moosetags]

That's a tough one. We all make mistakes occasionally. We had a similar experience a number of years ago. Ever since, I am very cautious when a campsite has a significant grade issue.

Brian

[uncle_bob]

Hi

I'd like to say I'm always cautious about this ... but ....

Typically I put on two X chocks, one on each side. That's not because I'm after the redundancy, our trailer is more stable to walk around in if you do it that way.

We do still carry the yellow plastic chocks we used before the X chocks. The intent is to deploy them in conditions that look challenging. Indeed one gets lazy and conditions just look better and better ..... hmmm....

Bob

[Foiled Again]

My checklist says, if tired leave the trailer hooked up until morning!. Unhook tow vehicle umbilical, hook up water, electric and maybe sewer, then face plant on the bed.

[a duncan]

Thankfully you didn't end up with a big dent in your tailgate. That would have made the learning lesson a bit more sickening.
Glad you are ok and did not have any body parts in between the truck and trailer also.
Lots to be thankful for in that ordeal.
Aaron

[Foiled Again]

I like big robust truck or plane chocks, but have had 2 sets "liberated". Next set will have chains that go thru the wheels and lock in place. About ready to install exterior cameras to shame this new breed of campers. A plastic coral snake that springs out and scares a thief into leaving a DNA sample, [emoji19][emoji848]?

[s1000pre]

I did something similar, the difference was the trailer moved forward off of the three leveling blocks under my tongue Jack. I was parked on cement, it sounded like a garbage truck dropping a dumpster. ...that was the last time I will ever use multiple leveling blocks under my Jack.

[tbrowne]

Just an added precaution. If parking on a steep grade, make sure to chock both sides of the trailer before disconnecting. the unchocked side can still roll in an arc even if the other side is immobilized.

[jcanavera]

I don't even begin to think of my X-Chock as a means to hold the trailer in a position. I use blocks on all 4 wheels that are inserted first on the tires, facing thedownward side of the parking spot.

The X-Chock to me is just for the rock and roll as you walk. Blocks are in first. Then I'll raise the trailer nose, pull the stabilizer bars. Then I lower lower the trailer nose with the hitch jack till the bottom of the jack is off the ground. In many cases at that point I get a very slight amount of movement as the trailer settles into the chocks. At that point I'll put in the X-Chock on one side. Finally I'll lift up the hitch latch and raise the trailer off the ball. In most cases the hitch pops off the ball and the trailer is truly not going to move.

If I get a little more movement in the trailer than expected when I lower the hitch jack off the ground, I'll start the tow vehicle to get the pressure off the hitch. So if the trailer moves forward when I get the hitch jack off the ground, I'll pull the TV forward a tiny amount or vice versa. Than insures that when I open the hitch latch and lower the hitch jack foot, there will be no snap back from any pressure on the hitch ball.

Jack

[OutdoorIdaho]

After a similar occurrence but with my trailer moving a few inches backward, I will chock the wheels and then place my truck in neutral to let the trailer settle in a controlled manner prior to disconnecting the two.

That was a very startling moment when a pair of plastic $5 wheel chocks where all that stopped my airstream from rolling down a grade and into a creek.

[brokeboater]

Been there done that, more than once. Stuff is going to happen. I also just noticed a short while ago a lock nut missing on my X-chock. I was never of a mind to check those things but since then I am. Live and learn.

[renderit]

I just bought a set of BAL xchocks for the new camper. I got the locks for them. Hope that works to keep them in MY ownership! WHO would steal them? That's low...

That said, I have for years kept a Anaconda lock on my propane. And tiny locks on my wet storage. I am untrusting... The new 25 GT I don't believe has provision for locking the wet storage though.

[drbrick]

WOW that is scary!!! We block all four wheels before unhitching and use Xchocks after to stabilize the rig - never thought the Xchocks were replacement for the heavy duty rubber wheel chocks.

[PatLee]

Thanks for the great reminder at the beginning of this camping season to wedge/block tires when unhooking. Take care out there.

[pmclemore]

Just be glad the trailer rolled into your truck instead of rolling off the back of your site.

And I'm with Jack - I would never depend on x-chocks to hold my trailer. They may help somewhat with rocking but I believe in real chocks. Both directions. Heavy stuff that can roll will find a slope that you can't imagine is there.

Pat

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by jcanavera

I don't even begin to think of my X-Chock as a means to hold the trailer in a position. I use blocks on all 4 wheels that are inserted first on the tires, facing thedownward side of the parking spot.

The X-Chock to me is just for the rock and roll as you walk.

Exactly. Blocks are the most secure means to prevent movement. The OP was lucky the trailer rolled towards the TV. When I was a lot younger and had a Coleman popup it rolled back towards a gully and it's by quickly swinging the front of the trailer sideways that I prevented it from rolling down into oblivion. Couldn't do that with a 28' AS! Live and learn, now I am super careful with the Andersen levelers and truck size Camco blocks, and I unhook the safety chains last, when all is stable.

[switz]

The brand new empty 2013 25FB International Serenity sitting on the dealership lot with full propane and fresh water tanks, a Hensley Arrow hitch installed along with a Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake control head had a tongue weight of 1,150 pounds versus the literature tongue weight of 833 pounds. By putting all the tools at the back, we were able to load out for camping with a 1,175 pound tongue weight.

It was our first "trip" with the 2012 Ram 2500HD towing the 2013 25FB International Serenity. We had sets of the stackable yellow bristle blocks for leveling. We finally got positioned on our space in Joshua Tree National Park and the low side had the yellow blocks in two layers. We unhitched and started setup. Suddenly the hollow blocks settled into the hard sand the thickness on one block. The tongue slid down hill a foot or so. The delemina was the front was now pointed directly at a Joshua Tree that was close enough that even Scotty could not beam the truck up and put it down into that space.

Went to town and got 30' of parachute harness tow "rope", 30' of ⅜" chain and a compound come along. We had a bottle jack, 3 ton jack stands and three 16" square plastic panels for supporting the stabilizers.

Jacked up the front and put a jack stand under the frame. I could the retract the electric jack a couple of inches so I could slide two of the 16" panels under the electric jack with the third one uphill. The upper of the two was slightly on the uphill panel. Electric jack was extended to weight bearing status. The parachute tow rope was placed around the base of a Joshua tree and both ends were attached to the chain. which in turn was attached to the trailer. I winched the tongue uphill about 16" and repeated the movement of the three 16" panels and both jacking equipment. Eventually we were pointed in the proper direction so I could get the Hensley stinger into the Hensley Arrow. We moved the trailer and set up 16" panels under the hollow blocks to get the trailer leveled.

The Parachute harness, chain and come along reside in the truck whenever we are towing.....

[27ftToaster]

Originally Posted by Hermes

and I unhook the safety chains last, when all is stable.

Excellent recommendation! So simple and just one more way to add additional safety into our processes.

Thanks!

[Mikebrady62]

Originally Posted by Hermes View Post
and I unhook the safety chains last, when all is stable.

Excellent recommendation! So simple and just one more way to add additional safety into our processes.

I couldn't agree more on this as the very last step and sometimes never unhook the chains.
I had similar experience on grass except mine went backwards. There may or may not have been a DNA Sample left :-) (Foiled Again line)
Also agree with X-Cocks are not for stopping a trailer from rolling only adding to the stability.

[OutdoorIdaho]

I will definitely be changing my procedure to remove the chains last. That is solid advice. I will also be replacing my cheap plastic chocks with solid rubber ones.