Screwy Stabilizer Jacks

[kavosCCD]

I have a 2004 28ft International CCD and have been having a lot of trouble with the stabilizer jacks. They go down just fine, but when it comes time to raise them, the cranks always unscrew themselves from the nut on the inboard side of the bracket. I wind up having to get underneath the camper with a socket wrench to put the nut back on. Then, I have to hold the nut in place with the socket wrench while somebody else turns the crank. Today I had to do it on three of the four jacks in the pouring rain. There must be something wrong with this. Can anyone offer any suggestions?

[WayWard Wind]

We had the same problem with our 02 Bambi. if you have the same locktite ( has the plastic insert) as we had then the nuts will never stay on once they have started to come off. Ours would work extending the jacks, but the nut would always fall off when extracting the jacks. After crawling in the mud, once to many times, I used another nut behind the nut that was already on them & then called the factory where they are made & they sent me the screw assembly w/nuts--problem solved. I can't recall for sure, but it seems the orginal nuts were metric & I had a hard time finding the extras. I may have even forced a regular nut onto the threads.
Best,

[Cracker]

Jack:

I don't think that "overextending" the stabilizers has anything to do with it. I consistently have the problem with my front street side stabilizer. I know that this one was bent by the PO and subsequently straightened out - although not perfectly. Additionally, and whether or not it matters, this is also the stabilizer that has the notorious interference from the gas line. What appears to be the problem, from my viewpoint, is that there is more than normal resistance to raising this particular stabilizer - and the nut is dragged hard against its' supporting member. The resulting action acts to unscrew the nut, in spite of the fact that it's a "locknut." The only solution I've come up with is to carefully straighten the stabilizer and its' braces, lubricate the screw portion, and then (---possibly) drill the threaded portion behind the nut to install a small cotter key. I've yet to perform any of these procedures.

For the record, I never have any problem with this stabilizer unless it's raining, the stabilizer in question is located in a puddle, and I'm attempting to make a quiet, before daylight, departure!

Also, at this moment in time, the hitch locking mechanism frequently would "disassemble" itself - dropping its' parts into a second puddle located under the hitch. I resolved this latter problem by expanding the hollow drift pins that secure the hitch lock handle and the locking pawl. Additionally, I ran a small plastic wire tie through the handle pin. The way the hitch pawl slides behind the trailer ball, assisted by pressure from the spring, makes failure "almost" impossible once hitched. My problem occured when I "locked" the handle in the closed position after unhitching the TV. This left the pawl and its securing drift pin sort of hanging in mid air - and, before I expanded the pin, it would simply fall out. Obviously too much activity from the "senior citizens" on board!

[jcanavera]

Originally Posted by Cracker

Jack:

I don't think that "overextending" the stabilizers has anything to do with it.

I agreed after reading the other post regarding this problem. I pulled my post as you were writting your response. I was offbase on this one. Thanks.

Jack

[74Argosy24MH]

I can't get the hyperlink to work so I will try this in less than a thousand words.

Nylock nuts are one use, if it has backed off it is no good as a lock nut. There are several varities of steel on steel lock nuts which are deformed nuts in one area that are much better at holding. I have seen some at ACO that are rounded on the top (stover nuts) and grip there; there are usually 3 or 6 rectangular indentation on the rounded portion. If you can't find them a couple of options. Use a regular nut, get it positioned properly, and center punch nut as close to the threads as possible. This will deform the threads of the nut against the threads of the rod. You can also lay the nut on its side on a flat surface and give it a rap; the idea is to make it slightly oval. This is kind of tricky, more of an emergency repair.

John

[Kistler]

I had the same problem; especially happened on rainy mornings in a wet site.

I used locktite (liquid glue stuff, various brands are available) and it seems to have worked.

What a pain to get under the trailer in the dirt and mud--after some of the worst I had to change clothes and take another shower and shampoo the hair.

[cosmotini]

I had the same problem the last time we used the trailer last season. The nylock nut on the rear roadside stabilizer came off. I found everything and put it back together but I'll be sure to use locktite or double nut them before we go out this season.

Thanks,

Dennis

[stephen.s1]

I thought I owned this problem... Only one nut came off, forward streetside, put it back and all seems okay. However after reading the previous posts, I'll drill out all four stabs and safety-wire 'em. Plentiful lube would lessen this irritation methinks.

[Cracker]

Why hasn't the manufacturer of the stabilizers (---the name escapes me right now) come up with a fix for this universal problem????

[kavosCCD]

Thanks for the great advice. I am going to order a second set of lock nuts and double them up. If that doesn't solve the problem to my satisfaction, I am going to order some Loctite to glue them in place. I have attached a link below to an on-line distributor where you can get some. As you will see, it comes in about 20 different flavors.

Thanks again!

http://www.globalstoresgroup.com/pag...-threadlocking

[howco]

Thanks for the insight people: I have a 1970 A/S and am having the same problem with the driver side rear jack. I lubed them all and when I raise it back up, it fails, thanks the little 12" bungee for now, but I will bring the loc-tite next time.

Has this problem been there for forty years????