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Old 05-08-2018, 05:09 PM   #1
rbs
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Power Stabilizer Blues, need electrical wizard

Our rear stabilizer quit working, checked the switch, it was getting power and sending power, the motor checked and it was getting power, but would not run. Talked to Lippert, and they felt it was the motor. AN IMPORTANT NOTE HERE FROM MY DISCUSSION WITH LIPPERT, YOU HAVE TO DISCOUNT POWER TO THE MOTOR TO MANUALLY RAISE AND LOWER THE STABILIZERS, COULD DAMAGE THE MOTOR IF YOU DON'T. Got a motor, wired it together and still no power stabilizer. Rechecked everything with a meter, removed motor and hooked it to 12v battery, worked fine. The wiring to the motor is getting 12V, but when I wire it together, nothing. I'm wondering if the switch is not delivering enough amps to run the motor? I'm lost, it should be working but obviously isn't, any and all help appreciated
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Old 05-08-2018, 05:22 PM   #2
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Motor works wired direct with good 12V "and" ground.

Did you check the ground wire to the motor?
You could jumper around the switch to test.
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Old 05-08-2018, 05:31 PM   #3
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Is only one side not working, or both? As garry said, switch sends 12V and ground. Measure the power to the motor at the switch on the two wires going to the motor with the motor connected. The switch has both power and ground connected to it. Throw the switch one way 12V goes to the motor on RED, ground on BLACK. Throw the switch the other way, 12V goes to the motor on BLACK, ground on RED. If this checks out and the motor runs with 12V, one of the wires to the motor is broken. If it doesn't, and you have both 12V and ground at the switch, the switch is bad. Since you said you have 12V, the problem is likely in the ground side, either in the switch or the ground feed to the switch.

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Old 05-08-2018, 05:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbs View Post
....AN IMPORTANT NOTE HERE FROM MY DISCUSSION WITH LIPPERT, YOU HAVE TO DISCOUNT POWER TO THE MOTOR TO MANUALLY RAISE AND LOWER THE STABILIZERS, COULD DAMAGE THE MOTOR IF YOU DON'T....
If the Lippert jacks are wired like my BAL, the power is disconnected from the motor when the switch is in the center position. I don't understand their instructions, except that the hand crank passes near the wiring and could (unlikely, but it could happen) tear insulation and short the 12V to ground. This would not hurt the motor, but would blow a fuse or breaker in the 12V distribution panel. Also, should the motor start turning while the hand crank is engaged, the human tuning the crank could be damaged . This can be prevented, at least on my BAL jacks, by pulling the fuse on the switch panel.

Al
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Old 05-08-2018, 08:17 PM   #5
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Baffled

Neither the extension/retraction work. First thing I checked was the switch, which has 4 wires, red hot, black ground, blue extension, yellow retraction. Using the black for a ground, I checked both the yellow and blue while operating the switch, both were delivering power on demand. I then checked wires at the motor and again using the black as a ground the motor was getting power in both positions. So, I should check the power at the switch with the motor hooked up, I've done that first thing. I'm just not certain if it is a weak ground or the switch is defective. And I thought this was going to be an hour at the most
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:16 AM   #6
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I think the ground side of the switch is bad. You checked for power at the motor using the black wire which is the input to the switch. You got power at the motor in both switch positions, again using the black wire as a reference. The only conclusion is the ground is not going through the switch.

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Old 05-09-2018, 10:23 AM   #7
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Without seeing a diagram , will give some general info .
These are DC motors , and to get then to go in 2 directions , the poles have to be reversed .
Again some assumptions , switch has 4 wires / 4 colors , so red & black should be power into switch + red , - black , and the yellow & blue are going to change polarity so blue will both pos & neg - depending on up & down , same with yel.
To measure voltage you connect meter to pos & neg = parallel .
To check current you measure in series = open circuit either pos or neg wire , sometimes this varies depending on meter being used , the meter close's the circuit either wire to the same side of battery .
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:57 AM   #8
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Dc motor

Motor frame might be shorted to ground
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Motor frame might be shorted to ground
OP measured 12V at the motor referenced to the ground wire into the switch. It the frame was shorted to ground there wouldn't be 12V at the motor.

Highly likely the ground side of the switch is bad.

Al
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Old 05-12-2018, 05:33 AM   #10
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Thanks to all that responded

Chatted with Tech at Lippert, explained my situation and tests, he came to the same conclusion as Al, bad ground in the switch. Ordered a switch, Amazon has them, installed it and we're back in business. Thanks for all of the help, I was literally lost. Ended up with an extra motor though, so I would suggest it your power stabilizer goes down, make sure test the motor in your diagnosis.

Best,

Rod & Jane
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:17 AM   #11
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Stabilizer Jack Issue

My 2016 Airstream Classic 30RBQ's rear stabilizer jack will extend but not retract. Please advise any and all guidance welcome.
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