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Old 02-06-2011, 07:11 PM   #21
Halimer
 
2006 25' Classic
New Hyde Park , New York
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I have found that the plastic levelers sink into the ground. They act like a cookie cutter and they are narrow. I use 2"x10"s cut to 12" inches wide. They don't cookie cutter, if I forget one block no big replacement cost, easily replaceable. One of the members of my club clued me into them.

Mark
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Old 02-06-2011, 07:38 PM   #22
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Prescott , Arizona
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Mark, I know what you are saying, just never have been to a park yet that does not have solid ground for the plastic ones. It would have to be some soft ground for them to sink in. JMHO
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:15 PM   #23
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--prefer a combination of 3/4 in thick boards and about 10 (2X4 ) 12" wide sections in addition to the plastic blocks. If one side needs extra height you can lay down the 2X4 sections and put the plastic blocks on top of that. What I often have to settle for in camping sites are those that slope down in the back. If I don't want to unhook, but want to be level in this situation, I can run both sides up on higher material this way. I am using the Reese equalizer hitch and sometimes releasing the spring bars won't drop the front of the trailer enough to be level. There are only two choices in this situation-unhook or raise up the back of the trailer. Also often times on cement or hard gravel I find that the plastic blocks are too thick and the 3/4 in boards bring it level.

The plastic blocks also come in handy work for height and base on the stabilizer jacks if the ground is hard enough.

I have had to park on many soft spots (wet grass that sinks into the mud and sandy spots). The plastic blocks aren't that good in these cases. A good long, thick board for under the wheels and also under the stabilizer jacks is a comfort to have along in these situations.

I realize wood is heavier, but I find myself wanting to take it anyway.

IMHO, Pat
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:39 PM   #24
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We have much harder dirt out west, so the sinking is not a problem. Two bags (20 blocks) is enough to build a 4" ramp for both wheels.
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:46 PM   #25
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Any hydrallic jack was built for temporary use with no person to be in the vehicle.

I would never recommend a hydrallic jack for use in storage of a unit. And I am sure there is zero recommendations from jack manufactures to use bottle jack for storage of a unit.

And that combo jack - nice idea and buying a set of stands and a jack seperately will be less money out of pocket. IMO.

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Old 02-07-2011, 12:46 PM   #26
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2007 19' Bambi
2005 18' Westphalia
Evans , GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
Any recommendations for those plastic yellow blocks? Also, my trailer doesn't currently have the level mounted on the front. Any links to a pic?
You can use a torpedo level on your kitchen counter.
Parallel to the axle to level side to side.
Front to back while leveling with the jack.
The level bubble points to the high side.
I kept mine in the silverware drawer in our CCD.

This works great when camping with another. Requires a lot of running in and out if you are alone.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:05 AM   #27
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1993 29' Excella
Wasaga Beach , Ontario
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With regard to the yellow or orange blocks, do you have a 'rule of thumb' as to how many are required to get level 'per bubble width' of off level indication? One chap I spoke with suggested he had to use 1 2x8 per bubble width and also carried some half thickness blocks to fine tune the bubble. Any thoughts or comments on that? By the way, I was fighting the blocks and leaning towards the boards but weight and storage is a factor so guess I'll be getting some lego....... by the way, how do you handle multiple vertical blocks while backing the trailer up - do they move or do you have one board on the bottom so as to fit the blocks only behind each wheel then back it up onto them?
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:42 AM   #28
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A few thoughts
1. Never thought of using a jack for leveling. But they tend to settle over a period of time. I would not use a jack for leveling to the point you are lifting the wheels off the ground.

2. Once in a while only one leveling block under one wheel is necessary for leveling.

3. If you are using a level inside the trailer. The best place is inside the fridge, not on a counter. I leveled my trailer this way and then glued on a bubble level on my power jack. I use this with a side to side level mounted on the front of the trailer. I can see the side to side level from the TV.
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