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Goal15 · 05-12-2011, 10:14 AM

Hmmm. Can someone shed some light on how to connect AS and TV without using jack to lift truck and trailer? This is the method that seems to be floated by the WD hitch folks. Is there a better way? If so I'd like to find out before i crater my electric jack doing this.

Gene · 05-12-2011, 10:45 AM

Dana,

If you don't want to use the power jack, or it won't work, you could use other jacks, but it seems like an emergency procedure. A lot of trucks come with bottle jacks (safer than a bumper jack). You might have to stack up scrap wood under the jack, make sure it is steady and then start jacking up the tongue somewhere close to the power jack. You might need one on each side so the trailer goes up straight. Or, use a floor jack. With a floor jack, you can put 2x on top spanning the two sides of the tongue avoiding wires and propane line. Either way is tricky and has to be done carefully. I don't think that's what you are asking.

Using the power jack to lift the truck and trailer makes it easier to install and remove Equalizer bars, especially on uneven surfaces. One bar (often driver's or curb side) usually goes on easily, but the other often requires lifting the jack much higher. At some point, you'll lift the truck off its suspension—that's too far. A flat surface is best for doing this as you don't have to left the jack so high, but we don't always get that, especially at my house. The company supplies a lever to help with this so you don't have to jack up the trailer so high, but the lever can be difficult for some people to use. My wife has trouble with it and sometimes I do. You can add a pipe to the end of the lever to make it easier. But, the easiest thing is to use the jack, put excessive strain on the hitch receiver and possibly blow a fuse.

I don't know how other WD hitches work. I think Reese sells a system similar to the Equalizer as well as other systems, but I don't know how they work.

Gene

Goal15 · 05-12-2011, 10:54 AM

Thanks Gene....

I guess I will just carry on as the PO showed me and stock up on fuses . . I assume this fuse you blow is in the AS for the electric jack, not in the TV.

Dana

Gene · 05-12-2011, 11:02 AM

Dana, yes. The in-line jack fuse on ours is located under the tongue.

Gene

altamont · 05-13-2011, 10:23 AM

The dealer showed me the IMPROVED way to hook up the AS to the ball with a WD hitch. First, back over the ball and line up as if you were going to drop onto ball. Leave about 4 inches of space above the ball and THEN hook up the WD bars. Very easy to do at this time as there is no tension on the bars. THEN drop the AS onto the ball. The weight of the tongue will put the tension on the bars. Hook up as normal.

It works pretty slick and there is no stress put on the jack other than raising the height of the tongue. Not lifting any weight of the truck. Us us a Eas A Lift so other manufacturers might be different.

Gene · 05-13-2011, 10:37 AM

I'll have to try that. I never would have thought of it myself. Thanks.

I assume when you say " First, back over the ball" you mean back the ball under the ball receiver/coupler on the tongue.

Gene

Goal15 · 05-13-2011, 10:56 AM

Going to pick up Thumper after work, I will try this and report back... sounds like it would be a great way to do it.

Goal15 · 05-13-2011, 11:11 AM

Andy, if you are looking at forums today, want to weigh in on the relative merits of this method? Please?

Goal15 · 05-15-2011, 08:06 PM

Tried the new and improved method outlined above and it worked great, no more raising truck AND trailer with electric tongue jack. Now I need to work on my weight distribution.... perhaps an equalizer in a couple weeks.

ohwally · 05-16-2011, 07:20 AM

thanks for the advice. i blew the drain line on the a/c from the top. yes the line does come out just above the wheel well.
we are going to try to remedy the electric jack situation next week.....still scared the front end will fall.....murphy's law.

ohwally · 05-16-2011, 07:22 AM

GREAT idea about connecting the stabilizer bars.....MAJOR improvement in the process...many thanks.

Wingeezer · 05-16-2011, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohwally

thanks for the advice. i blew the drain line on the a/c from the top. yes the line does come out just above the wheel well.
we are going to try to remedy the electric jack situation next week.....still scared the front end will fall.....murphy's law.

I really don't think there is any (well not much anyway!) chance of the trailer falling when you start messing with the electric jack in order to hand crank it.

But if you are that concerned, you could always put blocks or jack stands under the font A frame leaving just an inch or so of clearance so that you can fiddle with the jack knowing that it could only drop an inch - then remove the blocks once you are more comfortable.

In any case - it is always common sense to keep feet well away from under the A frame or hitch area when jacking the trailer tongue by whatever means!

Good luck, and let us know whatever you eventually find to be the problem with the electric jack!

Brian

05ModPod · 06-01-2011, 11:20 PM

Have been having some 12v electrical issues in my 05 CCD 22' Int'l.

The ground wire in the converter - that is behind the fuse panel is coming loose. almost after each long trip I have to take it off and and tighten the bolt screw.

I went to move the trailer the other day and my Baker 3000lb heavy duty power jack was dead - no clicking no nothing.

I ran through the normal checks - hooked up the TV and still nothing. Changed out the fuse - nothing. So I popped the cap to find all sorts of corrosion - looks like the O ring on the level bubble cap has gone missing - so I need to get one of them for sure to stop moisture from getting in.

So I thought maybe the cog wheel assembly was toast but it looks good - but hmm bone dry - no grease - was greased last year. I am having issues with my coupler so have been using the jack up and down sometimes 3-4 for times to hook up . I think that my coupler springs are shot - another topic.

Anyway got her moved down our 400ft drive and just did a try on the up down toggle - I got a clicking sound but nothing else.

Hooke her back up to shore power - and as she was still on the up angle off the TV - I popped into the trailer for something and heard the ceiling fan just stop - hmmm that bloody wire is loose again - so took the fuse panel off and then tightened the ground - everything inside working fine.

Tried the jack - and nothing.

Took the top off and cleaned all the connectors and had to replace one that was corroded through. All clean. I did this before moving her back - but before I figured the converter 12v feed was loose. So when I put her back I tried the toggle one more time - now I was getting a really slow movement - but any sort of load and she just stopped.

Earlier in this thread someone mentioned that with no grease - it will not work - so tomorrow I will grease up the top gears and also remove the power head and grease that too - hmm neglectful me I have never put grease on the inside - just on the stem.

If after greasing I still don't have success - can anyone tell me what to do on the 12V electrical end of things. Is there something I should check on the actual 12V fuse panel that is in the front under the bed?

My house battery I think is toast - it is not holding a charge not sure if (Paula) you had put a new battery in her before I purchased - so it might be the original 05 - if so could be time for a new one.

I have good grounds from my TV umbilical with full connection showing on my prodigy.

The connector I had to replace was just the connector itself there was no corrosion on the wire. But there was corrosion on the three terminals of the little black "thingy" that of course is not shown on the schematic in the binder - just the wires leading to thin air. Is that some sort of resister or or relay or what?

Anyway I will grease her up tomorrow and see what happens - since I have fixed the loose 12v ground the battery should fully charge over night. But I will remove the case and check its voltage. To be sure it is fully charging.

if it happens to be the problem - as someone else mentioned that if the house battery is dead then there would not be enough load to raise and lower the jack (right?) even if it is hooked up to the TV - which by the way I just had a brand new battery installed in her.

If I have to replace the battery on that model any good suggestions for a long live easy charge one???

Sorry for the long post - hope it makes sense.

PS on the grease - it recommends Mobilith 460 grease or its equivalent in the manual - is this the same as the white grease you use on the ball and load level bar snap in ends?

Thanks for any info or insight...

PSS Thanks for the tip on the hook up of the Load bars - I have always used the jack to raise the back end of the truck - not far mind you but enough to make it easy for me to hook them up. Will try this other method for sure next time.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 06-02-2011, 12:01 AM

Hi, first thing you need to do is have good battery power. When weak, I have plugged my seven pin cord into my tow vehicle and it helped. If water got into the tongue jack head, it could have gotten into the motor. You may have to remove the motor and dry it out. I greased my tongue jack head/gears for the first time [six years old] and I just used axle/bearing grease. Mine was pretty dry. As for the battery, mine only last about three years and I have replaced them twice now; I bought group 24 deep cycles from Costco.

05ModPod · 06-02-2011, 11:04 PM

Progress today. Took Battery cover off - 30am fuse relay wire that is connected to the positive was corroded. Cut the wire back and put a new end on. Brought Peter's bat from the boat and hooked her up. Everything works tickity boo. So that is where I have been loosing current, and why my house battery was never fully charging.

Charged up my house battery independent of the trailer - it is fully charged and leaving over night with no draw to see if it holds the full charge - then I will test it with minimal load hooked up to the trailer and see what happens. You never know - there could be other areas where corrosion has happened - so I will check the boat bat in the morning too to see how much it may have dropped.

I greased the top gears on the Jack. And was taking the top of jack off to do the spindle gear? whatever it is called. Two allen screws no problem - third - is not coming out - not with my strength - I just break all the bits and wrenches, and Peter too - tried impact wrench, quick release - but she aint coming out. So will now have to drill that dang thing out - and if enough material left will have to tool/die a larger thread and go with a larger allen screw.

Any other ideas on how to get that corroded solid, screw out???

Thanks for all the tips you guys - I love learning new things - and I have learned a ton just on this topic....more peace of mind that is for sure....

ROBERTSUNRUS · 06-02-2011, 11:48 PM

Hi, I have just recently found out that on my tongue jack I'm supposed to remove two allen screws to take the power head off; I have been removing the four phillips head screws that are under the power head base and virtually get the same results. This may or may not work on yours. [Barker 3500]

richinny · 06-03-2011, 08:08 AM

try reinstalling the bolts you took out. a little twist can make the last screw bind. don't forget to support the trailer tongue to keep things safe :-)

05ModPod · 06-03-2011, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richinny

try reinstalling the bolts you took out. a little twist can make the last screw bind. don't forget to support the trailer tongue to keep things safe :-)

Thanks for the tip - Peter had tried that already - no go.

05ModPod · 06-03-2011, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I have just recently found out that on my tongue jack I'm supposed to remove two allen screws to take the power head off; I have been removing the four phillips head screws that are under the power head base and virtually get the same results. This may or may not work on yours. [Barker 3500]

A nice cold beer on the way - for saving the day!!! - works - I just move the plate enough to squirt the grease in there - hunky dory.

New battery today - all nice and tight...and all the 12V back to A-okay!

Now moving onto the coupler - pop that baby out and give a nice clean and inspection and see what's up.

What would I ever do without all you fellers at the forum (and Gals!!!) - Some RV mechanic would be making a killing off me for sure

Thanks again for all your help

nwmsmith · 06-06-2011, 05:01 PM

I had same problem last week. All gears turned but no up or down. Barker Mfg. suggested that the pin had likely been sheared, but it turned out that the fitting that attaches to the giant screw had come off. I got it back on and it worked fine in testing but it came off again. I used jacks to get the trailer off of my truck. A call to Barker MFG and a new jack unit is on the way.