Lift it and block it-How?

[VeggieBullet]

Hello everybody?
Since we need to do some major work on the belly pan (Removing/replacing insulation/sealing/placing the pan back) we are actually considering in lifting the trailer with 4 huge jacks (always keeping it level) and maybe placing some concrete blocks and 4x4s across the trailer.
Since the trailer will have to be parked for at least 6 to 8 months (while we remodel it) we were thinking of keeping it on blocks so the axles can take a brake in the mean time.
It will probably be a lot easier to work with a good clearance.
Any inputs?
Thanks

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by VeggieBullet

Hello everybody?
Since we need to do some major work on the belly pan (Removing/replacing insulation/sealing/placing the pan back) we are actually considering in lifting the trailer with 4 huge jacks (always keeping it level) and maybe placing some concrete blocks and 4x4s across the trailer.
Since the trailer will have to be parked for at least 6 to 8 months (while we remodel it) we were thinking of keeping it on blocks so the axles can take a brake in the mean time.
It will probably be a lot easier to work with a good clearance.
Any inputs?
Thanks

Six good jack stands are simple and easy to place that will take care of the issue.

Place 2 on the frame, just forward of the bumper, then place 2 on the axle mounting plate between the tires, and 2 on the backside of the A-frame near the front of the shell.

Keeping the trailer level within itself is a very good idea.

Andy

[VeggieBullet]

Hi Andy.
Thanks again you are always prompt to reply.
Also just wondering. How high is too high? and can we keep it like that for a long time?
Thanks

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by VeggieBullet

Hi Andy.
Thanks again you are always prompt to reply.
Also just wondering. How high is too high? and can we keep it like that for a long time?
Thanks

Raise it just high enough so that the tires do not touch the ground.

If you have new axles installed, then that will also prolong their life.

You can keep it that way "forever".

Andy

[Jammer]

You could also use wood cribbing. I have a set of cribs nailed up from 24" pieces of 2x4 that I use. They are somewhat more stable than jackstands.

[ehodg66]

HEy Andy,

I am in the process of doing frame, floor, etc.. When you say "good" jack stands for leveling, what size (tonnage) stands are you talking about? I have a 72 Tradewind, gutted!

Thanks

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by ehodg66

HEy Andy,

I am in the process of doing frame, floor, etc.. When you say "good" jack stands for leveling, what size (tonnage) stands are you talking about? I have a 72 Tradewind, gutted!

Thanks

Just glancing at Northern Tool's website, the wimpiest stands they sell are rated for 2 tons, and most of them are rated for 3 tons or more. Since your trailer's original "total weight" (per Airstream publications) was just over 4,000 lb, and Andy's recommendation calls for 6 jack stands, it looks like you could support a stack of Tradewinds with any 6 stands NT sells.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by ehodg66

HEy Andy,

I am in the process of doing frame, floor, etc.. When you say "good" jack stands for leveling, what size (tonnage) stands are you talking about? I have a 72 Tradewind, gutted!

Thanks

3 tons or more, works OK.

Andy

[ehodg66]

Cheers DBX and Andy!

[Randy Gates]

It was very important to have the unit lifted so I could slide around underneath it when dropping the bellypan. We used 1X12's square cut and routed out the footings for the jacks from Harbor freight. They never even moved a bit in 1 year of repairs. Strongly recommend it. We used a floor jack to lift it to insert the jacks. Hope it helps.
Randy

[dznf0g]

The thing that is nice about the heavy duty stands is they usually have a larger more stable footprint on the ground. I "winter" mine on four 6 ton stands.....48,000 lbs of capacity for 8500 pounds (minus the tongue load) of AS. But it is really stable. Hasn't budged in up to 70mph gusts during storms.

[VeggieBullet]

Originally Posted by Randy Gates

It was very important to have the unit lifted so I could slide around underneath it when dropping the bellypan. We used 1X12's square cut and routed out the footings for the jacks from Harbor freight. They never even moved a bit in 1 year of repairs. Strongly recommend it. We used a floor jack to lift it to insert the jacks. Hope it helps.
Randy

thanks for the pic!
We were thinking on building a little wooden platform like yours and specially since the trailer will be parked on the grass.
Sorry not not replying here before but for some reason sometimes we don't receive notifications on certain threads....mmm that's weird

[M2HB]

Originally Posted by VeggieBullet

thanks for the pic!
We were thinking on building a little wooden platform like yours and specially since the trailer will be parked on the grass.
Sorry not not replying here before but for some reason sometimes we don't receive notifications on certain threads....mmm that's weird

You may want to consider a large wooden platform to spread the load if you are not on concrete. Also, don't ever use concrete blocks. The recommended 3 ton jack stands are a cheap investment. Also, make sure you are on level ground.

[KYAirstream]

Originally Posted by M2HB

You may want to consider a large wooden platform to spread the load if you are not on concrete. Also, don't ever use concrete blocks. The recommended 3 ton jack stands are a cheap investment. Also, make sure you are on level ground.

What's the problem with using concrete blocks, unless of course they are hollow..... Seems like placing the jack stands on solid concrete blocks would be more than adequate?

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by KYAirstream

What's the problem with using concrete blocks, unless of course they are hollow..... Seems like placing the jack stands on solid concrete blocks would be more than adequate?

Timber weighs about 35 pounds per cubic foot. Concrete weighs 150 pounds per cubic foot. So, two 2×12 boards cut 12" long (for a total of 0.33 cubic feet) weighs ~10 pounds. A concrete block the same size would weigh ~50 pounds, and adds nothing at all to the stability of the trailer in exchange for that extra weight.

Concrete would be more than adequate, but so would the lumber, and the lumber is (1) much easier to handle and (2) cheaper unless you already have half-a-dozen concrete blocks lying around.

Handy hint, if you're worried about termites, wrap the boards all-around in metal or plastic screen-door mesh first. That should keep the termites from snacking on your cribbing.