Jack motor

[LI Pets]

The tongue motor stopped working, tore it down all other parts are fine, should I just have the motor rebuilt by local shop.....or buy one.

It's the original '77, no brand or make anywhere on it.

[cwf]

Get local rewire!

[Wingeezer]

Are you sure the problem isn't just a bad ground or connection somewhere? I had that happen on two trailers!

In both cases my problem turned out to be corroded wires under wire nuts. When I checked with a multimeter at the motor, it seemed to be getting 12v, but the connection was so bad that it could not draw sufficient current to operate. When I connected the motor directly to a 12v battery it ran fine, so that go me looking into the feed wiring and that was how I discovered the problem.

I cleaned the wires up and soldered them rather than just relying on wire nuts. been ok ever since.

Just a thought - probably you have already checked this!


Brian.

[LI Pets]

yep tried it

[Kevin245]

I'm not sure if this will help in your case, but the jack on our Avion stopped working several years ago. I took it apart and found that the motor armature would not spin because moisture (condensation) had built up in the lower part of the motor. This caused the armature to seize in the bearing sleeve. Some WD40 and a fine steel wool massage of the armature did the trick and the unit is still in service today.

[LI Pets]

the armature turns

[HowieE]

Since you are into the motor did you try applying power directly to the motor? Get the end switches out of the circuit. If the motor work under this condition one of the end switches may have overrun and be open.

[Jim Clark]

Jacks are cheap on ebay.

[SteveH]

Just my opinion, but I would not attempt to repair a 36 year old electric tongue jack. I would replace it in a heartbeat.

[LI Pets]

Perhaps that's because you're not into vintage aka the VAC, we try and fix things rather than just replace.

Airstreams are not planned obsolescence.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by LI Pets

Perhaps that's because you're not into vintage aka the VAC, we try and fix things rather than just replace.

Airstreams are not planned obsolescence.

I understand that, and your point. But, if you get the motor repaired, what's the next thing that's going to break in that 36 year old jack, and will you be able to buy that part?

You could buy a new one, and paint it the same color as the old one.

[cwf]

Originally Posted by LI Pets

Perhaps that's because you're not into vintage aka the VAC, we try and fix things rather than just replace.

Airstreams are not planned obsolescence.

If fixable, do it. Also, this is a great time to verify the jacking parts are safe. A great deal of wear happens in the screw, too. If still good, rewire motor.

There are folks who can help. If you can't find, PM me and I will point you toward someone who rebuilds several thousand HP to specialty motors.

[LI Pets]

Originally Posted by HowieE

Since you are into the motor did you try applying power directly to the motor? Get the end switches out of the circuit. If the motor work under this condition one of the end switches may have overrun and be open.

Bingo, that was it.

Now how to find that or substitute switch.

It says 10A 250 vac
1/4 hp 125-250 vac

I think temporally I just run two wires out to 12v and jump up or down.

tks Howie

[LI Pets]

Originally Posted by cwf

If fixable, do it. Also, this is a great time to verify the jacking parts are safe. A great deal of wear happens in the screw, too. If still good, rewire motor.

.

I always get into more ancillary things when I take stuff apart, you're correct.

[HowieE]

Did it just go beyond the stop point in which case you can reset it. Run the jack all the way up with the hand crank and then back it off 1 1/2 turns with the hand crank. Run the motor while off the post to the stop in that same direction and then place it on the post. and set the set screws. If all the switches are goo that should do it.

If one of the switches itself is bad then replace it. Now that Radio Shack is all but out of business you will have to Google Cherry Electronic. They make a full range of micro switches. Baker Manufacturing may be willing to sell the switches as I doubt they have changed in the last 40 years.

In the mean time direct hot wiring will work as long as you don't run the jack up against the mechanical stops in either direction.

[JStanley]

I suggest an upgraded switch, and I would install a new 15 or 20 Amp rated switch. They say the 10 Amp switches eventually burn-out.
Clean and lub everything and you should get many more good years out of that jack.
Important: Don't forget to sync it properly for the up/down number of turns so it stops before it hits the up/down limits. Otherwise it might jam. Go to the factory website for the syncing (timing) details. Good Luck.

[LI Pets]

Originally Posted by JStanley

I suggest an upgraded switch, and I would install a new 15 or 20 Amp rated switch. They say the 10 Amp switches eventually burn-out.
Clean and lub everything and you should get many more good years out of that jack.
Important: Don't forget to sync it properly for the up/down number of turns so it stops before it hits the up/down limits. Otherwise it might jam. Go to the factory website for the syncing (timing) details. Good Luck.

I did clean it up the grease in there was like glue.

Are the gears supposed to be packed with grease?

Or just normal contact points?

Not sure about sync'g this the gears have no stop points.

Which factory website please?

[JStanley]

Don’t know what model jack you have. But maybe this information will work for you. It has been a few years since I worked on my H&H Engineering/Barker Mgr. Co jack. So here is their website with link to an Owner’s Manual. (Many models appear to work the same way.)
http://www.barkermfg.com/hipower3500.pdf

Here are the instructions that should work with most jacks:
SYNCHRONIZATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Powerhead must be synchronized with the jack post
1. Use the crank to fully retract post
2. Crank jackpost one turn in opposite direction.
3. ground powerhead to jackpost or trailer frame.
4. Toggle switch down as if lowering the trailer or retracting the post. Continue to hold switch down until motor stops running (as if jackpost is retracted all the way).
5. Install powerhead and tighten (3)set screws.

MAINTENANCE:
Once a year, the powerhead should be removed and a liberal amount of grease (preferably a grease with high melting point) applied directly to the coupling on which the drive pin rests. DO NOT POUR OIL into top of the jack post.
Once a year, the housing cover should be removed and the gears inspected for proper lubrication. Remove 4 screws and tap around edge of housing to free cover. DO NOT insert screw driver blade! (This may damage mating surfaces.) Before replacing cover, clean mating surfaces. If lubrication is needed, use Lubriplate GR-132 grease or equivalent.

H&H ENGINEERING
DIVISION OF BARKER MFG. CO. 730 E. MICHIGAN AVE. / P.O. BOX 460 BATTLE CREEK MI 49016 / (269) 965-2371

I phoned them and they were very helpful.

[LI Pets]

that's not like mine, toggle on bottom of motor, no handcrank or level, very different.

But have seen them on many other AS

[Jim Clark]

Originally Posted by LI Pets

Perhaps that's because you're not into vintage aka the VAC, we try and fix things rather than just replace.

Airstreams are not planned obsolescence.

If doesn't work out I have a hand crank jack I will give you, came off my 2005 Safari.

Jim