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Old 05-14-2022, 02:31 PM   #1
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GT Front Power Stabilizer Not Working

Hey all.

4th outing with our latest AS. GT 2022 25FB.

Front stabilizers have worked fine up until now. Last outing they extended and retracted without a problem or abnormal noise.

On this one, they donít want to budge at all. No sound or click. Rear ones work fine.

Powered down the trailer completely in case these have an automatic breaker. No change.

Before I call the dealer, anything else to try? Anyone if a specific fuse is used just front the front stabilizers and if so which one is it?

Thanks!
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Old 05-14-2022, 03:41 PM   #2
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Wish I could help. I checked the 2022 GT Manual and Parts book, nothing shows the 12V schematic unfortunately.

Is it possible something got sheared off under the trailer during a recent trip that would take out only the front pair of jacks? Just seems odd it stopped working.

Only other thing I can think of is to shoot some contact cleaner into the switch set in that panel, but I'm not exactly sure the contacts are even open enough to squirt in there.
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Old 05-14-2022, 08:15 PM   #3
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Do you have an ammeter? If not you should get on as it is a handy tool to have.

With it you can determine if you have power to the switch? If so then either the switch is bad or there is a break in the wire to the stabilizer motors. Since neither of the front stabilizer motors work I would suspect this is the problem.

Once you know where the problem is located, repairing it becomes much easier.
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Old 05-14-2022, 08:33 PM   #4
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I checked the DC Distribution Box's schematic under the lid on our 2019 GT and it appears the front and rear stabilizers are wired individually but it's difficult to tell if they're fused individually.

You might be able to use a 12V test light on the line to the front stabilizer to see if there's power. Let us know what you find.
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Old 05-14-2022, 08:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
Do you have an ammeter? If not you should get on as it is a handy tool to have.

With it you can determine if you have power to the switch? If so then either the switch is bad or there is a break in the wire to the stabilizer motors. Since neither of the front stabilizer motors work I would suspect this is the problem.

Once you know where the problem is located, repairing it becomes much easier.
I do. Not with me on the road but back home. I will use and check when I return. Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2022, 08:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmc306 View Post
You might be able to use a 12V test light on the line to the front stabilizer to see if there's power. Let us know what you find.
Good idea too. Will check that once back home and report back. I appreciate the posts!
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Old 05-14-2022, 09:45 PM   #7
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You don’t mention this but in case you don’t already know, you can extend and retract the stabilizers manually using a drill or wrench and (IIRC) a 3/4” socket.
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Old 05-15-2022, 06:00 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by nryn View Post
You donít mention this but in case you donít already know, you can extend and retract the stabilizers manually using a drill or wrench and (IIRC) a 3/4Ē socket.
Yep. Tx. Thatís how I lowered them.
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Old 05-15-2022, 07:37 AM   #9
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I was one of the folks who didn't get them on my 2021 because they were not available, but they sent them to me to install when they came in.

My first guess is one of the wires coming down to the motors has sheared off.

I was surprised when I opened up the cover where they are hooked up and saw that one wire was actually pinched above the frame and under the flooring. I had to spend a bit of time prying up on the flooring to get it out.

Also, the access hole it goes through was a "bit rough" like a saw blade that a cheap little plastic plug (that didn't fit well) went up through.

I spent some time ridding it of the edge and affixed the plug with "goo-gobs" of caulk and tied the wires up with zip ties to eliminate as much motion on them as I could.

What is up in that covered area can be improved greatly (as most of the wiring in an AS) to eliminate future problems.

I used aircraft style "environmental" splices to remedy any liquid corrosion that could also occur easily in the design as well.

Take a look there. I'll bet it will be eye opening.

And best of all it is very easy to do, particularly on mine as I had it lifted 2+ inches.

An AS will benefit from a bit of heat shrink, better splices, better routing, and a great deal of attention to areas around any bulkheads...
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Old 05-15-2022, 11:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
I was one of the folks who didn't get them on my 2021 because they were not available, but they sent them to me to install when they came in.

My first guess is one of the wires coming down to the motors has sheared off.

I was surprised when I opened up the cover where they are hooked up and saw that one wire was actually pinched above the frame and under the flooring. I had to spend a bit of time prying up on the flooring to get it out.

Also, the access hole it goes through was a "bit rough" like a saw blade that a cheap little plastic plug (that didn't fit well) went up through.

I spent some time ridding it of the edge and affixed the plug with "goo-gobs" of caulk and tied the wires up with zip ties to eliminate as much motion on them as I could.

What is up in that covered area can be improved greatly (as most of the wiring in an AS) to eliminate future problems.

I used aircraft style "environmental" splices to remedy any liquid corrosion that could also occur easily in the design as well.

Take a look there. I'll bet it will be eye opening.

And best of all it is very easy to do, particularly on mine as I had it lifted 2+ inches.

An AS will benefit from a bit of heat shrink, better splices, better routing, and a great deal of attention to areas around any bulkheads...
Thanks. Will do once back home. One more question if I may. By access panel, what do you mean exactly? Is it in the underbody and specific to the stabilizer connection or you mean around the 12V bus under the bead?
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Old 05-15-2022, 12:30 PM   #11
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There is an access panel about the center between the stabilizers both in the front and the back. 4-6 screws (I don't remember) and the wires all pull down through a hole in it or right next to it.
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Old 05-15-2022, 04:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
There is an access panel about the center between the stabilizers both in the front and the back. 4-6 screws (I don't remember) and the wires all pull down through a hole in it or right next to it.
Ok. Got it. Picture attached.

Just left the trailer at our storage facility and will return during the week to jack up the front and get under there. I assume you saw the pinched wire behind that panel?
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Old 05-16-2022, 04:45 PM   #13
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Yes.

Way up inside. Pull the wires all towards you and inspect splices et. al.
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
Yes.

Way up inside. Pull the wires all towards you and inspect splices et. al.
So, I was able to swing by my trailer at our storage facility over lunch. Went under it and looked at the wiring to the two front motors. The wires are securely fastened.

Then I looked at the access panel. See my video below. All wires seem intact. I even pulled at the splices and nothing came loose.

https://youtube.com/shorts/tiRVnjAlL2k?feature=share

Question, are the two red thingies the automatic reset breakers?

Didn't have my voltmeter with me to check the switch that's the next step.

Any other ideas, please don't hesitate.
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Old 05-18-2022, 09:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steilkurve View Post
So, I was able to swing by my trailer at our storage facility over lunch. Went under it and looked at the wiring to the two front motors. The wires are securely fastened.

Then I looked at the access panel. See my video below. All wires seem intact. I even pulled at the splices and nothing came loose.

https://youtube.com/shorts/tiRVnjAlL2k?feature=share

Question, are the two red thingies the automatic reset breakers?

Didn't have my voltmeter with me to check the switch that's the next step.

Any other ideas, please don't hesitate.
Giving it more thought, I wonder if the thingies aren’t manual breakers. When I look at a still of my video, they seem to have a removable cap? Could it be where the breaker switch is? Will look at that next time I visit my trailer but if anyone knows, I’d appreciate it. See photo for what I mean.

If they are indeed manual breakers, I wonder if having them resting on the belly like that and banging around as we drive wouldn’t have set them off?

And by the way, I believe those breakers were previously around the stabilizer switch. That’s what my dealer suggested when I called them. This looks like a 2022 change perhaps.
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Old 05-19-2022, 03:41 AM   #16
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I think that is a relay/circuit that measures amperage to tell when it is all the way down.

Given no wires cut that would be my next guess.

Multimeter time.
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Old 05-19-2022, 03:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
I think that is a relay/circuit that measures amperage to tell when it is all the way down.

Given no wires cut that would be my next guess.

Multimeter time.
Yep. It appears to be that time. Btw, I also completely powered down the trailer by unhooking the batteries as I saw in other threads Classics have an auto reset breaker for the stabilizers. Donít know if the GT does too but that did nothing unfortunately.
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Old 05-29-2022, 10:15 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
I think that is a relay/circuit that measures amperage to tell when it is all the way down.

Given no wires cut that would be my next guess.

Multimeter time.
Well, did not even have to get to the multimeter step! Removed the microwave to get better access to the cables going into the switch. Culprit was obvious. The splice for the negative going into the front switch had detached. It was only crimped on one side! See first photo. I removed the crimp, put in a new one and crimped hard. Front jack is working again… We’ve all said it before, QC is not where it should be. Thanks @renderit and all others for your help.
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Old 05-30-2022, 07:31 AM   #19
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Wow! That would have been far down the logic line I would have taken. I would have been ripping apart stuff in other areas to find out where the break was...

Thanks for the heads up!

And in thinking, I hope the completed crimp and subsequent insulation was on the "hot" side of the equation?

If not I shudder to think of what could have happened...
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Old 05-30-2022, 09:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renderit View Post
Wow! That would have been far down the logic line I would have taken. I would have been ripping apart stuff in other areas to find out where the break was...

Thanks for the heads up!

And in thinking, I hope the completed crimp and subsequent insulation was on the "hot" side of the equation?

If not I shudder to think of what could have happened...
Luckily, it was.

Yesterday, I also fixed cabinet trim above both wardrobe doors that was detaching after each drive. It was only held together by a couple of nail gun shots entering the piece maybe 1/8’’ deep… Obviously, it was insufficient. Now glued together. Point is, AS design, specs and materials are high quality, execution isn’t always at the same level sadly.
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