Final chapter on my new Jack

[urnmor]

I did purchase and installed the Husky Super Brute 5000. I can say it was not difficult to remove the old bolts. With a little magic wrench and the use of a wrench with an extender for leverage they came off easy. I did leave the AS hitched to my truck however I did have to jack stands available as back up. Installation was easy as it did come with three replacement bolts the proper washers for grounding. I did buy three regular washers to put on top of them.

Now I have an 2012 F250 and the tailgate just clears the new jack. Well not exactly it does barely touch it when I open and close but it is not an issue. I believe it clears it because the male with the ball is fairly long. Anyway it is very quiet going up and down.

It did come with two remotes and a small level.

However I do have one question regarding the level where does one place the small level?
thank you

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by urnmor

I did purchase and installed the Husky Super Brute 5000. I can say it was not difficult to remove the old bolts. With a little magic wrench and the use of a wrench with an extender for leverage they came off easy. I did leave the AS hitched to my truck however I did have to jack stands available as back up. Installation was easy as it did come with three replacement bolts the proper washers for grounding. I did buy three regular washers to put on top of them.

Now I have an 2012 F250 and the tailgate just clears the new jack. Well not exactly it does barely touch it when I open and close but it is not an issue. I believe it clears it because the male with the ball is fairly long. Anyway it is very quiet going up and down.

It did come with two remotes and a small level.

However I do have one question regarding the level where does one place the small level?
thank you

I drilled small screw holes on the top, covered the top with grease and secured with small wood screwed. I tried to get it so that it really showed level, but it didn't work. If I had it to do over, I would not have bothered with the level.

[Mollysdad]

Back in the box.

[urnmor]

For those who might be interested in the distance between the tailgate and the Super Brute 5000. With the long receiver it just makes it IMO another size receiver it would have to be turned sideways which would involve drilling holes or purchasing a smaller jack.

[Anders79]

i did the same this weekend. Needed bolt extractor socket as my bolts were not budging. I have levels on the side of kitchen upper cabinet (facing door). Now with remote I can level from the doorway.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by urnmor

For those who might be interested in the distance between the tailgate and the Super Brute 5000. With the long receiver it just makes it IMO another size receiver it would have to be turned sideways which would involve drilling holes or purchasing a smaller jack.

Different trucks have different clearances. A Ford tailgate is not the same as a Toyota tailgate. If the bed is deeper, the tailgate is taller, thus less clearance. I turned my Husky 5000 sideways and I have 1/4" clearance to the shaft if I'm perfectly square. My solution is to use a slightly longer shank, maybe 2".
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...ys-196460.html

[guskmg]

Is the head on the Husky capable of being rotated and re-indexed?
guskmg

[drbrick]

I went with the Lippert 3500 simple because the jack head was easy to turn so our tail gate cleared .... the Husky Brute is a great jack just never thought about drilling new holes in the jack base to enable to turn it... live and learn

[jcanavera]

My primary reasons for going with the Super Brute 5000 was the ball and screw technology. Very reliable and is used for lifts in many auto and truck facilities. Secondly the price. When I bought mine over 3 years ago, it was significantly lower in cost than the 3,500 lb rated Barker replacement jack with was OEM on my year of Airstream. Finally I have a heavy Classic Slide Out pulled by a 3/4 ton GM van. I use an Equal-i-zer hitch and almost always use the jack to raise and lower my attached van and trailer to assist in placing or removing the the Equal-i-zer spring arms. When you are lifting that hitch and van together you are moving a lot of load. Having a 5,000 lb lift capacity gives me a lot of comfort over the old 3,500 lb jack.

Installation was easy and I especially like the adjustable foot attachment for the jack post itself. I've moved that foot up and down to compensate for grade issues found in some campground sites. Much better than balancing a jack stand on wood blocks.

The remote is one of those things that I've never used except when I replaced my level indicators and I was using a bubble level in the refrigerator to verify the level of the trailer proper to sticking my new level on the trailer.

I have no clearance issues on the rear doors of my van so unlike some of the pickup truck owners, that's not an issue for me.

Probably the most negative aspect I can note of this jack is that if I ever have to use the manual crank, I will not only have to remove the propane cover but I will have to remove my 30 lb tanks to allow enough swing room for the large manual crank to rotate freely. I will live with that situation if necessary. Removing a propane tank is not a terrible time consuming activity. I've included a picture to show that crank and the proximity to my propane tanks.

Jack

[DCPAS]

Originally Posted by jcanavera

Probably the most negative aspect I can note of this jack is that if I ever have to use the manual crank, I will not only have to remove the propane cover but I will have to remove my 30 lb tanks to allow enough swing room for the large manual crank to rotate freely. I will live with that situation if necessary. Removing a propane tank is not a terrible time consuming activity. I've included a picture to show that crank and the proximity to my propane tanks.

I noted this and bought a 7/16ths deep socket to fit the manual crank. If I ever need to use it, my plan is to use a ratchet.

[urnmor]

Probably the most negative aspect I can note of this jack is that if I ever have to use the manual crank, I will not only have to remove the propane cover but I will have to remove my 30 lb tanks to allow enough swing room for the large manual crank to rotate freely. I will live with that situation if necessary. Removing a propane tank is not a terrible time consuming activity. I've included a picture to show that crank and the proximity to my propane tanks.


Just an idea do you think a ratchet wrench with an extension would work in lieu of moving the cover.

[Airtandem]

I carry a ratchet with 1/4"x8 extension; works great. NO removal of cover or tanks

[Trowbridge]

Longer receiver shank.

[WhereStream]

Originally Posted by Anders79

Needed bolt extractor socket as my bolts were not budging.

Now, that's a tool I'm not familiar with.

How does it work?

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by urnmor

I did purchase and installed the Husky Super Brute 5000. ...

Now I have an 2012 F250 and the tailgate just clears the new jack.

Could you indicate what is the distance from the center of the jack post to the front of the jack head? We could compare that with our current jack and the clearance we are currently getting from our tailgate. Thanks!

[Anders79]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

Now, that's a tool I'm not familiar with.

How does it work?

The inside of the socket is designed to better grab the bold head when trying to loosen. Can not tighten with them, but was a life saver in trying to take out my rusted bolts (even after I started rounding the bolt head with regular sockets). Did not find them at out local hardware store but found a set at out automotive store.

[urnmor]

Originally Posted by Hermes

Could you indicate what is the distance from the center of the jack post to the front of the jack head? We could compare that with our current jack and the clearance we are currently getting from our tailgate. Thanks!

I will be happy to when I bring my AS back to the house next week.

[WhereStream]

Originally Posted by Anders79

The inside of the socket is designed to better grab the bold head when trying to loosen. Can not tighten with them, but was a life saver in trying to take out my rusted bolts (even after I started rounding the bolt head with regular sockets). Did not find them at out local hardware store but found a set at out automotive store.

Thanks.

I will see if I can find a set of these tools, to add to the collection...

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by guskmg

Is the head on the Husky capable of being rotated and re-indexed?
guskmg

No, don't try.
First, it's PACKED in there. I opened it (mistake) I couldn't even find where the 12 v. lead came in, can't see the switches, just layers of circuit boards and ribbon cables..
Then there's a tiny bead of silicone sealing the lid, and opening that destroys the seal. (I lucked out, after all my attempts to resolve a problem, Husky just sent me a new one.)
The exploded diagram does not show any fasteners between the head and the shaft anyway.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by jcanavera

Probably the most negative aspect I can note of this jack is that if I ever have to use the manual crank, I will not only have to remove the propane cover but I will have to remove my 30 lb tanks to allow enough swing room for the large manual crank to rotate freely.

I saw that too.
But a good solution is a trip to Harbor Freight and purchase a ratchet, long extension and a long 7/16" socket. Unlike a lot of jacks where the crank is square, the Husky uses a hex shaft and a socket goes right on. It's not hard to crank. I got the longest one I could find so if it comes off the extension it doesn't fall into a black hole.
I turned my head to the curbside so the lever to release the brake was NOT against the tank cover.