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11-13-2003, 06:45 AM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 304
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Electric Jack
Been thinking about changing out the manual tongue jack on our 71 Safari for an electric one. Most that I have looked at have a 2" post. Will that size jack fit on our trailer? Any brand the best to consider?
Dan
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11-13-2003, 06:55 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
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Should. The hole in the hitch is a pretty standard size. Make sure it has a gusset plate on the bottom of the A-frame that the jack will also pass though. That does add quite a bit to the suport the jack has.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
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11-13-2003, 09:58 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 84
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Speaking of electric jacks...
Does anyone know where I could find the crank that is used to operate the jack in the event the gears or motor take a dump? The book I have shows a pic of one. Looks like the gear box/motor is removed and the handle of the crank is inserted in the tube. Looked pretty cool. Wish I had one. My jack is factory Airstream.
brian
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02-24-2004, 08:38 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member 
1979 31' Sovereign
Richmond
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 48
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Well, the weather is getting warmer here on the east coast. Time to start fixing up our "new to us" '79 Soverign. While looking for answers to my jack problems, I seem to have stumbled on an answer for both of us.
It took me a bit of time, but I finally found the H&H Manufacturing site, who makes the jack on my AS and is very simular to your description.
To the point, the handle is about $24.00 and the site is here . The manual and parts list is also on this site.
I hope this helps someone other then just me, now if I can just figure out how to get the jack unjamed.
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02-24-2004, 09:24 PM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 51
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Not to bitch and moan too much but our AS just came back from a jack repair. It timed it's demise in a non-typical manner by dying as it was being left off for other service at the dealer. A crank would have been a blessing if it had failed on the road. As it were the item going bad is a limiter. This is a small switch which tells the lift to stop at the maximum of it's reach. The jack would lower but not rise. A quick fix for a dealer but not if your unable to get unhitched. I now carry a spare scissor jack to lift the tounge if it happens in a more remote area.
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02-24-2004, 09:30 PM
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#6
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gerald Clay
I now carry a spare scissor jack to lift the tounge if it happens in a more remote area.
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Gerald, the crank for the jack is in the wardrobe, fastened to the aft wall, along with the awning rod.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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02-25-2004, 08:54 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 51
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Is that what that is. I initially tried that as the stabilizer crank and was lost as to how it worked. Then I found the correct crank for the back but was lost as to why I had the other one. Still learning obviously.
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02-25-2004, 10:51 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 216
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...I just discovered last weekend mine has a little light on it...
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03-15-2004, 06:10 PM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 279
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Saw where one of our members (from Bat Cave N.C.) sold a power jack head on ebay Saturday for 104.00.
Do these often come up for sale?
Mine was missing when I purchased trailer. Are they often stolen?
How secure are they ? Against theft that is?
Actually the manual crank is no problem to use. And replacing mine is way way down on my list.
Are these things generally trouble free? or do they need LOTS of repair?
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03-15-2004, 07:29 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member 
1979 31' Sovereign
Richmond
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 48
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broken jack .. repaired!
I finally got the jack out of the coupler. I had to grind off the bolts as they were so rusted. As it turns out, the bolts were the most solid part of the coupler/jack mount. The jack exterior contiues through the top of the coupler to just past the lower bracing mentioned a few posts ago. Well, that exterior tube had rusted away, allowing the inner tube, the one that pushes down to make the tongue go up to break free and sit askew. Long story short, I was able to get someone to weld a new lower tube, salvaging the end with the guide. We also welded new plates on the top and bottom of the coupler as that had all rusted through.
The moral? Check the 'inside' of the coupler for rust, clean and paint as required. I got lucky and was able to save the jack which to replace is about $325.00. If the PO's had done a bit of PM, then this would not have been an issue. And in truth, the rest of the TT looks in good shape so far.
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09-27-2004, 10:00 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 932
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I have one for sale listed in the classifieds section of this site.
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05-03-2006, 12:07 PM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member 
2006 Safari SE
Los Alamitos
, California
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 136
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Hi all: We have a 2006 Safari SE 28 footer, with the electric jack. If this unit should fail, how does one crank up the trailer manually. I see know obvious means to accomplish this, nor any tools provided for such a purpose. I know there must be something I am not seeing.
Thanks in advance.
Robert and Sherry
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05-03-2006, 12:22 PM
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#13
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpenHigher
Hi all: We have a 2006 Safari SE 28 footer, with the electric jack. If this unit should fail, how does one crank up the trailer manually. I see no obvious means to accomplish this, nor any tools provided for such a purpose. I know there must be something I am not seeing.
Thanks in advance.
Robert and Sherry
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Check your manual. The emergency procedure should be in there. There should be a small crank supplied along wirh all the small items that come in the trailer when it is delivered. if you don't have the crank, a suitable-sized ratchet and socket will do the trick.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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05-03-2006, 12:49 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member 
2006 Safari SE
Los Alamitos
, California
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 136
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Thanks Pahaska: So I did the obvious re: the manual, and now know the proper use of the tiny Allen wrench provided, and the emergency handle. Sorry I was lazy and did not check the manual first before asking the board.
Robert
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05-03-2006, 05:02 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master 
1968 26' Overlander
Wenatchee WA
, Cape Cod
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 871
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We hate our electric jack. We are pretty sure the previous owner had it put on. It has failed numerous times. Each time it fails we have no manual way to get it to work, so we detach it and bungy it and away we go. Seems at this point, it would just be easier to have a manual hitch.
__________________
Jim & Kathleen 1968 Overlander - WBCCI #5793
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05-03-2006, 05:49 PM
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#16
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uberlanders
We hate our electric jack. We are pretty sure the previous owner had it put on. It has failed numerous times. Each time it fails we have no manual way to get it to work, so we detach it and bungy it and away we go. Seems at this point, it would just be easier to have a manual hitch.
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I removed our manual jack, and installed an electric one. I have back problems, and the cranking bothered it. Manual jacks are pretty cheap, you could go to Camping World, and pick one up for under $50, if you want one.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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05-22-2006, 05:25 PM
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#17
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 27' Overlander
fort wayne
, Indiana
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 184
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manual crank
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander76
Speaking of electric jacks...
Does anyone know where I could find the crank that is used to operate the jack in the event the gears or motor take a dump? The book I have shows a pic of one. Looks like the gear box/motor is removed and the handle of the crank is inserted in the tube. Looked pretty cool. Wish I had one. My jack is factory Airstream.
brian
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hey,
recently posted a similiar thread. i have a 75 overlander and couldn't get the electric jack to work. which prevented me from getting the trailor from purchase. h&h sells the nut w/ steel pin thru it to do manually using a ratchet. its about $20 bucks w/ shippping. i did this and then went to local dealer and picked up a homemade handle they had for a ten spot. from what i can tell is you do need to remove the motor assembly to manually operate. careful when you do this, when you re-install ,the motor needs to be "re-sychronized" so it "knows" top and bottom for the limit switch? i have not done this yet myself but will this week as i now have my crank handle And plan to p'up tt.
hope this helps
crowbar
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05-22-2006, 05:33 PM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 27' Overlander
fort wayne
, Indiana
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 184
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manual crank
i forgot, if you do a search on one of the threads i started there is all the info you will need and better than i could explain. i'm not that good on computer or i would have gave you the info. here.
crowbar
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