Elec Jack, jacked up??

[imagine]

I parked the trailer in front of the house in the driveway. I disconnected the wing nut that holds the wire that goes to the jack. Went out today and nothing. I also noticed that when i turned the on switch in the trailer, NOTHING! I then hooked up the generator, and noticed that the kill switch just inside the door was on.... the lights worked, the air worked, but still the Jack did not work, nor did the light come on. I did check the fuse that leads into the jack with a guage, and it showed that the fuse was good. Any ideas??
Only thing I did so was unhook the main battery from its post but then decided to hook it back up, and just disconnect the wire coming from the jack... (If the battery did go dead, and It might have because nothing worked before I hooked up the generator, shoulden't the jack work when the generator is hood up?

[nickcrowhurst]

Imagine, if you have a digital voltmeter (known as a DVM - between $8 and $35, depending on current capacity), and you know how to use it, you will be able to tell us the voltage, or lack of voltage, at the jack. From there, we can help. If you don't have a DVM, or don't know how to use it, such matters will be a continuing mystery. A good book to read is "understanding 12 volts", by Harold Barre. www.abebooks.com usually has several copies for about $5. In my trailer, the battery acts as a smoothing device to stabilise the output from the Intellipower, and most 12 volt systems will work from the converter without the battery when there is a 120 volt supply, either from a mains supply or a generator. A battery is required in a towed trailer to operate the brakes via the emergency breakaway system. If you are disconnecting the wire to the jack to prevent someone mischievously interfering with the jack, you might prefer to fit a simple concealed switch in the live supply to the jack. When disconnecting the live wire from the jack, it is all too easy to short it out on the frame. If I'm "teaching my granddaddy to suck eggs", I apologise in advance. Nick.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst

Imagine, if you have a digital voltmeter (known as a DVM - between $8 and $35, depending on current capacity), and you know how to use it, you will be able to tell us the voltage, or lack of voltage, at the jack. From there, we can help. If you don't have a DVM, or don't know how to use it, such matters will be a continuing mystery. Nick.

A good inexpensive alternative, that is pretty simple to use, is a 12v test light. Ground the clamp end on a good ground, like the tongue of the trailer. touch the pointed end to the wire that goes to the jack. If the light lights, you have power, if not, you don't. You may have a bad toggle switch on the jack, or a bad motor, but check first and see if you have power going to it, before you start replacing parts you may not have to.

[safari57]

Once you have confirmed you have power you might want to determine if your jack has a manual over ride that you can use. Mine has one that's visible and came with a clip in handle, on others you have to remove the cover (4 screws or bolts) which allows you to then raise/lower your jack with a wrench. It may just be stuck and needs to be "nudged" by doing this. I'd crank it up and down a bit, then try the switch again.

Barry

[Striperv]

I had the same problem and quickly determined that I had lost the ground to the jack. Even if you determine that you have 12 volts to the supply wire, if there is no ground, the jack won't work. Since you know it works off the Univolt, you can assume both power and ground are there for that source of power. Since it doesn't work off the battery, first confirm 12 volts to the jack's supply wire. If that exists, then the problem is your ground. Knowing that Univolt works, and Battery doesn't. I would run a jumper from the univolt ground to the battery ground and test it. With power and ground, the jack should work. If not, the cause is most likely mechanical.