Drill Adaptor For Stabilizer

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by osolow

I would suggest getting a cordless impact driver(works better then a drill)

and have your socket tack welded to the adapter. also one thing i didn't noticed was

no one said anything about your stabilizers. make sure there not bent up to bad and

are greased up to make using the driver a lot easier

I'm not sure greasing the stabilizers is a good idea. Sounds like a dust, sand and grit magnet. Maybe a little silicone spray?

[mello mike]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

I'm not sure greasing the stabilizers is a good idea. Sounds like a dust, sand and grit magnet. Maybe a little silicone spray?

I use silicone spray with good effect. Does not attract dust or dirt.

[2airishuman]

lubing the screw jacks?

this is generation AND model and brand specific maintenance with various PROPER methods...

for example the modern (like the last 20 years) electric screw jacks,

have GREASE ZERKS and grease exit/overfill ports...

and the maker advises to shoot grease into them, regULarLY...

the screws pass through this grease filled sealed chamber going both wayz...

no dust, no dirt on the threads that i can see.

cheers
2air'

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by Mikethefixit

Malcom
I'm sorry,I sometimes forget my age. Years ago,cars came without starters.So we cranked.
Please go to the Sears website find tools and enter Model # 44271 and thats a 3/8's drive speed wrench. Its just a little crank that you can use a socket on to speed the loosing or tightening of nuts and bolts by hand without any power source except YOU.
I have several,they come is darned handy.

I generally don't tolerate little cranks very well, they remind me of my 1st grade teacher. I also use a Sears speed wrench but it's 1/2". The handles have bearings which make turning almost a sexual experience.

I used to poo-poo the sissies who used an electric tongue jack and could not get it up on their own until I got one.

Maybe before you go electric take a hit of Viagra.

[Excella CM]

A good lubricant for areas with a lot of contamination like the stabilizer jack screw is spray graphite available from auto parts stores. It has an alcohol vehicle which evaporates quickly leaving a nice even coat of graphite which will not attract or hold dirt.

[Boondocker]

The "new" ones I just installed have gobs of grease on them. Wonder if I ought to figure out a way to remove it and replace it with graphite.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by Boondocker

The "new" ones I just installed have gobs of grease on them. Wonder if I ought to figure out a way to remove it and replace it with graphite.

ya might wanna check the manufacturers maintenance info FIRST...

not that they know or have any vested interest in this stuff.

while graphite in a spray/liquid vehicle is a FINE lubricant...

the solvents will make MUCK of the already greased parts internally...

grease contaminated with solvents is evil.

cheers
2air'

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

ya might wanna check the manufacturers maintenance info FIRST...

cheers
2air'

Speaking of the BALs on my 71 neither the AS service manual or owners manual says jack.

[osolow]

sorry i would lube them with what every you like, just so you don't have metal on metal.

[barts]

Originally Posted by Excella CM

A good lubricant for areas with a lot of contamination like the stabilizer jack screw is spray graphite available from auto parts stores. It has an alcohol vehicle which evaporates quickly leaving a nice even coat of graphite which will not attract or hold dirt.

For applications like this, I find the dry-style spray-on motorcycle chain lubes to be near perfect; they don't attract dust once dry (a few minutes) and contain molybdenum disulfide, which is a good extreme pressure lube.
Prevents rust, too.... this stuff also works nicely in keeping the various moving parts in Airstream window latches, etc, working smoothly.

- Bart