Difficulty leveling the trailer

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Atsushi

We boondocked a night at Mohegan Sun casino parking lot.

This lot is on a slope, and I had a hard time leveling the trailer.

We use orange leveling block, called Lynx Levelers. I'm sure that a lot of people use this.

The problem was that I couldn't figure out how to put more than 2 layers of these pads because our FC23D has two axles. There is limited distance between the two tires to lay down the pads. I could do two layers by putting two on the ground and another one on top of the two, making a kind of steps for the tire to climb.

On the spot that we first parked, that wasn't enough. I needed more. But I couldn't put three because I couldn't put 3 pads on the ground to make the first layer.

In the end, we moved the trailer to a more level ground, but I wonder if there is anyway to put more leveling pads under the tires.

Thanks,

Atsushi

We stair step them....up to 4 high....block wheels well or she or she will roll...

[JohnsCrocket]

We use those red halfmoon-y Anderson levelers. Fit right between the two tired. Just roll up on them as far as needed, chock the other side. Easy peasy.

[pteck]

It's been touched upon, but just to make clear:

1) The Anderson's are WAY easier to use
2) You can get the level just perfect, instead of to the closest "step" of the lego blocks
3) It's stable and an effective chock if you don't roll to the ends of the ramp. Unlike lego's that have no chocking effect and on the contrary, can be quite unstable

[Wayne&Sam]

I tried Andersons and returned them. They didn't fit between the two wheels (16") and were narrow enough that they sank into the ground. I like the idea of them, but for me, they just didn't work.

[PecanMan5]

I use pressure treated 2x8x2. They can be repurposed for many things.

[Portage to Caravan]

To the OP, moving to a more level spot is always the best and easiest option, but you don't need to block both wheels on one side. These blocks are real handy for changing out a flat on the side of the road, but never go so high that the stack becomes tippy. That'd be just crazy. Three high is pretty much my limit. I've found I can "dial in" the level with varying thicknesses of ply [under the stack] that I carry with my blocks. They also have the added benefit of resisting the blocks sinking into the soil.

[SSquared]

Originally Posted by Atsushi

We boondocked a night at Mohegan Sun casino parking lot.

This lot is on a slope, and I had a hard time leveling the trailer.

We use orange leveling block, called Lynx Levelers. I'm sure that a lot of people use this.

The problem was that I couldn't figure out how to put more than 2 layers of these pads because our FC23D has two axles. There is limited distance between the two tires to lay down the pads. I could do two layers by putting two on the ground and another one on top of the two, making a kind of steps for the tire to climb.

On the spot that we first parked, that wasn't enough. I needed more. But I couldn't put three because I couldn't put 3 pads on the ground to make the first layer.

In the end, we moved the trailer to a more level ground, but I wonder if there is anyway to put more leveling pads under the tires.

Thanks,

Atsushi

We use a different brand of plastic leveling blocks. When we need to go three high, we start with the two-high stack, pull the trailer partly on the stack, then add the remaining blocks. We do this with two people to make it go quicker--the driver stays behind the wheel.

To change a tire, we go four high, with multiple stops & starts.

[25Twin]

Atsushi, we are using Utility Blocks which are similar to yours. I have 12 of them and they are fantastic! Completely unbreakable and I expect they will last forever. Yesterday we pulled in to a very unlevel site and I needed to get one side of the trailer up on three blocks (4.5"), but as you noticed there isn't enough space between the tandem axles. But it was easy, i put down 1 block and then two blocks in front of both wheels, and pulled forward up onto the stack of two blocks. Then there was room to put a stack of three blocks in front of each wheel and I pulled forward again up onto the stacks of three. It was another step, but I accomplished it myself without needing a spotter to read a level to know if I was level or not, which is common with the Anderson ones I am told.

I use the Hopkins 08525 levels to know how many blocks are needed to avoid trial and error

https://m.northerntool.com/products/...6744?adv=false

Hopkins 08525 Graduated Level https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AA4RWM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

[ROBERT CROSS]

Lynx, since the classic was new.

The black plywood is hinged just in front of the forward wheel, have pyramid stacked three high but wouldn't go higher.

Bob
🇱🇷

[Hiho Silver]

Originally Posted by SSquared

We use a different brand of plastic leveling blocks. When we need to go three high, we start with the two-high stack, pull the trailer partly on the stack, then add the remaining blocks. We do this with two people to make it go quicker--the driver stays behind the wheel.

To change a tire, we go four high, with multiple stops & starts.

We used this method until we bought the Andersons. However, on our trip this winter one of the Andersons snapped and broke off several inches. Hopefully Anderson will replace it.

[trumpetguy]

Anderson for me. To make it a one person job I need to add a leveling monitor. At present co pilot does the backing while I check the level.

[Hiho Silver]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Anderson for me. To make it a one person job I need to add a leveling monitor. At present co pilot does the backing while I check thWe level.

We are using the level mate pro, to help make leveling a one person job.

https://www.amazon.com/LevelMatePRO-.../dp/B01FGGSWPW

[DBinSD]

Originally Posted by Hiho Silver

We are using the level mate pro, to help make leveling a one person job.

https://www.amazon.com/LevelMatePRO-.../dp/B01FGGSWPW

How many times have you used it?

Would you recommend it?

Dan

[Hiho Silver]

Originally Posted by DBinSD

How many times have you used it?

Would you recommend it?

Dan

I just bought the level mate pro last June. I did have an issue with the first one I received, but their customer service was great and they sent me a new upgraded version which had just come out. Have used it many times, and works great. I did have to recalibrate a couple of times, but not a big deal. Bottom line, yes I would buy it again.

[DBinSD]

Good to know, thanks!

[Pat Pierce]

Like others, we used to have a set of 2x8, or 2x10 planks for leveling. Not only did they take up room and added weight, but we had to back up or pull forward until we were satisfied.

We bought the Anderson units and love them! Much easier to deal with. The first thing I did when I received them was to figure a way to make them grip surfaces better than the slick plastic surface that will be on the ground.

I used a power sander with 60 grit (belt sander since I have one) to roughen up the surface and to minimize the cup that develops in the molding/cooling process (will be seen while sanding crosswise). Then I bought some of that tenacious anti-slip tough tape used for stair treads and other exterior, or interior, locations (also used on boats). It may not make any difference on wet or slick grass, but when on pavement, it will grip the surface better. Haven't had a slip situation so far. The reason I rough sanded the plastic was so the tape would adhere better.

I found the units a tad too long for placing between the tires in some situations, so I decided to chop off about 1-½" more or less of the thin end without any issues.

These units are solidly built and I can't imagine them breaking in normal situations.

[pteck]

Another reason I love the Andersons... I can practically get it level within 1 feet of the existing position of the trailer. Anything else takes a bit more "runway".

[Moflash]

Level Mate Pro[emoji106]

[Hiho Silver]

Originally Posted by pat pierce

like others, we used to have a set of 2x8, or 2x10 planks for leveling. Not only did they take up room and added weight, but we had to back up or pull forward until we were satisfied.

We bought the anderson units and love them! Much easier to deal with. The first thing i did when i received them was to figure a way to make them grip surfaces better than the slick plastic surface that will be on the ground.

I used a power sander with 60 grit (belt sander since i have one) to roughen up the surface and to minimize the cup that develops in the molding/cooling process (will be seen while sanding crosswise). Then i bought some of that tenacious anti-slip tough tape used for stair treads and other exterior, or interior, locations (also used on boats). It may not make any difference on wet or slick grass, but when on pavement, it will grip the surface better. Haven't had a slip situation so far. The reason i rough sanded the plastic was so the tape would adhere better.

I found the units a tad too long for placing between the tires in some situations, so i decided to chop off about 1-½" more or less of the thin end without any issues.

[color="red"]"these units are solidly built and i can't imagine them breaking in normal situations."

That's what I thought, but see my picture in post #30, believe me I wasn't doing anything abnormal when mine snapped. I just spoke with Andersen, after I emailed them my picture, and they are replacing for free, however I am paying the shipping since it was over 1 year old. I am happy with that, guess I could have told them it was less than 1year old, but that isn't true.

[Moflash]

We carry 2 sets of Lynx and have not had any issues leveling.Also use them when removing wheels and tires to service wheel bearings and brakes.