Current thoughts on leveling

[kb0zke]

There have been several threads about what people use for leveling their trailers. Some use lengths of 2x6 or 2x8 boards. Some use plastic squares. Some use comma-shaped devices.


I started out thinking that I'd be one to use lengths of 2x8s, as the price is pretty low and they might be useful in getting out of soft ground. The take up quite a bit of space, though, and tend to get dirty (and refuse to clean up).


We use those plastic squares with our first trailer and I wasn't greatly impressed. Unless something has changed in the past seven years I won't be looking at them.


The sideways commas are the most recent idea, and they look attractive. The price isn't huge, they don't take up much space, they are fairly light, and they can be easily washed off. I've read some threads about some brands getting stuck between tires, but most people seem to think that cutting off an inch or three from the tip won't hurt anything and will reduce the possibility of one getting stuck between tires.


I do prefer to buy American, but if an imported product is clearly better than the American competitor I'd be willing to consider it.


Questions:
1. If we manage to get our ideal trailer (a 34') will we need to have 3 of the comma-shaped levelers? I would guess we would.
2. Has anyone started out with either boards or plastic squares, gone to the commas, and then gone back? If so, why?

[sheriff1]

If your going to use the comma type these are the ones to get, the red ones break and no longer have the lifetime warranty.
I have a set of the black ones I carry but hardly ever use. Plastic blocks just seem to be easier to use.

[rmkrum]

I just get the Airstream close to level with the head side of the left-right bed on the higher side. Sleeping head down is a short trip to a headache.

I carefully level front to rear with the tongue jack to let the refrigerator work properly.

Usually always stop in fairly level places. If the dogs and people don’t fall over, it’s close enough[emoji3][emoji3].

Haven’t needed blocks or my yellow leveler wedges yet although I do carry them just in case.

[brad1]

After starting with wood bocks, then the Lynx Levelers version of the plastic blocks, then Anderson version of the “comma” style levelers, I’m back with the Lynx Levelers. They work, they don’t break, they don’t take up much space, and they come with their own carrying case that keeps the dirt they collect from messing up the storage area. It’s an Occam’s razor kind of deal.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by kb0zke

There have been several threads about what people use for leveling their trailers.
. . .

"Several" . . .

FEI/FYI/FWIW:

https://www.google.com/search?q=Leve...=airforums.com

FEI
FYI
FWIW

[SeaLevel]

Ramp style (roll up on them) levelers with a LevelMate Pro have been the best and easiest solution for us. Pull or back into the site, check level with the app, and if not level enough, it will show you how much you need to go up on either the driver or passenger side. If necessary, get out the ramps, then roll up on them while monitoring the app. Stop when level. Then level front to back using the app. For an overnight we sometimes only need to raise the front an inch or so, so we don't even unhook.

You'd want one ramp for each axle.

[ROBERT CROSS]

17 Seasons with my hinged board with 'block stops' using the lego's.... SFSG. (a favorite spot is soft sand)
Plus the board works well if it rains.

The '63 Frantic Banana reefer was very sensitive to level, Cloudsplitter not so much.
It's a question of SWMBO being 'level'. She's not happy, 'til I'm not happy.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Bill M.]

I use the leggo type leveling blocks and have never seen any reason to want to change. Wooden boards are dirty and heavy and bulky. the comma's are just too technical for me.

[Al and Missy]

I couldn’t see how to get lego blocks high enough between the wheels for my tandem axle trailer. I couldn’t carry enough lego blocks to make a one piece ramp for both wheels. A triple axle would be worse.

I made some stackable blocks out of 2x6 pt lumber. Two boards high, the top smaller than the lower with holes in the lower boards and 1” dowels facing down to match the holes in the lower block to lock them in place. They worked great but after several years they started cracking and they would absorb water if camped in the rain.

I was looking for a solution and had decided on the Andersens about the time of the National Parks vandalism issues and I started seeing reviews about them breaking.

I bought a set of the Beech Mountain levelers. Per the instructions I cut one off to go between the wheels. I have had them for a couple of years and love them.

[amxpress]

I've had travel trailers and 5th wheels and have traveled thousands of miles towing since 2007. All I have ever used were two 2X8 boards that I installed a grab handle on the side. I usually only needed one to level out the trailer. The wheelbase of the trailer determined how long the board was. Simple. Cheap. I actually picked some of them up as scrap lumber at a construction site in my neighborhood. It worked for me. I even brightly painted them so they never got left behind.
K.I.S.S.

[drbrick]

We use the "BeechLane" (black comma?) like them, easy use, don't break - wood blocks under the jack easy stuff.

[fwjumper]

In answer to question #1...
I try to get whatever leveling method I'm using under the front and rear axle. There is absolutely no problem with an axle "hanging", but the frame needs to be adequately supported. I have, on occasion, when setting up for only one night, leveled with one axle only.(center) I don't recommend it, but have had no ill effects from that. Of course, the stabilizers would be down too, but as we all know, there are not for supporting significant weight.

[foolrushin]

We've used the lego style yellow blocks since 2006, starting with our 1st 5th Wheel by S.O.B, then a 2nd larger 5th Wheel. They work fine with our Flying Cloud 30FB. I looked at Anderson, seems like a nice concept but we have plenty of lego blocks so don't feel compelled to replace them. I am going to get the Level Pro, that will take the guess work out of the "now many blocks do we need" question. FYI, on our recent trip to the Black Hills, twice we used 2 blocks and once we used just 1, the trailer easily drives up on those. Anything more you would need to create a ramp, but like I mentioned we have plenty from owning 2 larger 5th Wheel trailers.

If I was starting out equipping a trailer for the first time I would most likely look at other leveling concepts.

[Bob Peahl]

We have used boards, plastic squares and Anderson levelers. The Andersons are used most often. They offer greater precision and are easier to setup than the other options. Their only limitation is the 4 inch maximum lift.

[ProTech]

For me it’s all about weight, so LEGO blocks it is. I have the “comma” but rarely bring it. Never thought wood was a good choice, heavy and I’ve seen boards slip when stacked. Legos lock together.

[devilsbox]

Originally Posted by SeaLevel

Ramp style (roll up on them) levelers with a LevelMate Pro have been the best and easiest solution for us. .

After 35 years of rving I think this set up is the slickest. It just doesn't get any easier.

In addition, it takes up the least amount of room which is important to us as full timers.

Larry

[doctorlewis]

Back when I got my first AS in 1976 I made levelers using treated 2x8 lumber. Three boards nailed together - bottom board is 4 1/2 foot long, middle board is 3 1/2 foot long. and the top board is 2 1/2 foot long. Now, it is 44 years later and I am still using these same units that I built. However, it does seem that they have gotten a lot heavier over the years.

[Fair_Enough]

In the interest of reducing weight I have gone to Anderson levelers in combination with Level Pro and app. Cons: Traveling solo, it’s hard to tell when you’ve reached max lift and so, it’s easy to go too far. They can skid rather than letting tire roll up. There is a possibility that at the max height isn’t enough; for those reasons I’ve began carrying 2 pieces 3/4 “ plywood 12” x 48” long. Which many times is all I need. Also, they can sink into soft ground more-so than wide boards. Pros: light enough; Infinitely variable (encourages my OCD), easily cleaned, and can’t rot. Some express a concern about buying a product made by a company owned by a guy that would deface a national treasure - one of the few still standing. I don’t condone what he did but my moral indignation isn’t pushed to the point of throwing away something that works.

[MacCoroner]

I tried wood blocks first. They worked but were very heavy to haul around.
Then I thought the red comma thing would be a great idea. It broke on the third use.
Now I use lego blocks. They are not expensive and don't weigh anything.
Have managed to deform one when I used it to span a hole in some asphalt where we had to park for a couple of nights. Other than that, they work fine.

Safe travels and be well.

Jim

[ChuckFeldt]

I cut a 8’ 2x10 in half and angle cut the ends. Connected them with a large gate hinge. If level can de achieved with 1.75” I lay it out If more needed I leave folded. The hinge bent a bit first use. But is a functional leveler.