Controlling Bounce

[Whizzo]

After our first trip since reviving the Sport, I was reminded just how much bounce we get when parked. Even in this small trailer, the up and down motion is really noticeable when one heads from dinette-to-bathroom!

I always level with blocks of course, chock both wheels, use pads under the stabilizers, and have tried various adjustments to the stabilizer tightness.

I recall how solid it was when stored completely off the suspension:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f457...tml#post653472

Most RV stabilizing discussions I've reviewed suggest anything to stop tire motion is the best bang for the buck. I still have the old style aluminum pyramid frame screw jacks from when it was stored. Could two of them snugged up behind the wheels on the axle mounting plate be the most effective, and inexpensive next thing to try?

[boatdoc]

Hi Whizzo: Couple of years ago I have restored 1973 26' Argosy. First thing I have done is dumped the rusted out A type screw jacks. When I have built my new Stainless Steel frame I have welded in four jack pockets into frame for aluminum pyramid screw jacks with ACME thread. Trouble is that not enough force can be applied to totaly stabilize the trailer. Second issue is getting under the trailer to level it. Since my serious motorcycle accident two years ago, this becomes very difficult. I have wrestled in my mind with many different ideas but nothing made more sense than the original A type assembly which helps with side to side motion stabilization but not much front to back. Key idea here is to get as much weight as possible off your axles. After considering many options I have decided on building my own hydraulic leveling system. Since I have increased my frame from 5" to 6" decision was made to build four 1.5" diameter X 5" stroke pistons and house them within the belly leaving only 3/4" holes through belly wrap for piston pins. I have made sturdy aluminum bases capable of 1/2" incriment adjustment. The pistons are operated by Parker Oildyne hydraulic pump capable of developing 2800 PSI. In order to have independent control over each piston we have used PETER-PAUL Electronics hydraulic control solenoids. On up mode I can use my remote control on all four simontenuesly, in pairs or individually. Down mode all four go down in unisin. System was bench tested and it works fine developing 2800 PSi until pressur relief valve opens at set 2800 Psi. As of yet we had no time to install it because I own a boat business and it is winterizing time. After the holidays we will get to work on installing the system. What excites me about it is the possibility of being able to totally unload the torsion axles during storage. I will report when task is completed. To be honest I do not like the idea of leveling jacks hanging under my Argosy but given consideration to other inexpensive options things are not that simple as they seem to be in effort to totally stabilize the trailer. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

[ROBERT CROSS]

Whizz,

The further back you can put your stab's the less bounce you'll get.

No rear bumper on your Sport, correct? On our 22 Safari I put the scissor jack stabs about one ft. forward on the bumper frame support's and used the manual tongue jack to load them a little.


If you can locate an area on the frame at the rear of the coach give that a try.

Just two of these welded to 12"x12" diamond plate.


Bob

[Ag&Au]

I recently purchased a pair of these. I was amazed at how much they firmed up the trailer. These along with the stabilizers that come mounted on the trailer, make the trailer feel like it is on the ground rather then on wheels.

Ken

BAL 28012 X-Chock Tire Locking Chock : Amazon.com : Automotive

Video 3 BAL Chocks - YouTube

[BigAl]

Don't forget that on an Airstream trailer the jacks are for stability only. The frame evidently is not strong enough to support the trailer with the wheels unloaded(as in off the ground). I think the frame would flex enough to possibly damage the shell of the trailer. I personally find the trailer very stable when the jacks are down.
Al

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by BigAl

Don't forget that on an Airstream trailer the jacks are for stability only. The frame evidently is not strong enough to support the trailer with the wheels unloaded(as in off the ground). I think the frame would flex enough to possibly damage the shell of the trailer. I personally find the trailer very stable when the jacks are down.
Al

It is not the frame that is the problem. It is the stabilizers. A cursory glance is enough to show they are in no way designed to support a fifth of the weight of the trailer. This is why they are called stabilizers not jacks. It is also obvious from the way that they are installed that the intent is to stabilize side to side motion. They are definitely free to allow fore and aft movement. That is why locking the fore and aft movement with the X-chocks provides the added stability.

Ken

[ROBERT CROSS]

POI....The BAL Stab's require two axles.

Bob

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

POI....The BAL Stab's require two axles.

Bob

It never occured to me that Airstream (or anyone else) would make a 22 foot travel trailer with a single axle. I guess it is just going to have to bounce.

Ken

[dwightdi]

If the 22 ft. Sport does not have two axles, the BAL between the wheel chocks will not work. I do not even put my stabilizers down if I am on the road and will stay attached. There is always the chance I might forget to raise them when I drive off in the morning before I have my coffee and am not fully functional. It is still better than trying to sleep in a sailboat that is tied to a bouy over night.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by dwightdi

.................................

It is still better than trying to sleep in a sailboat that is tied to a bouy over night.

Actually, I find a boat very comfortable as long as it is a gentle swell and not choppy. Maybe you need a longer mooring line.

Ken

[noreen&sal]

Check the Maidenform website. They pretty much wrote the book on support. Sal

[Whizzo]

I'm somehow thinking I should merge the double versus single axle, and support undergarments comments, into one clever joke.

Instead, I'll try the additional jackstands, then see about an axle bra.

[Whizzo]

Following up this old thread, turns out two plain old screw-type jackstands snugged against the axle plate just behind the wheels, did the trick. Took 90% of the bounce out, and didn't require getting too dirty crawling under the trailer.

I may look at more permanent heavy duty leveling jacks at some point. But for now, this is a great inexpensive fix.