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Old 06-20-2022, 05:11 PM   #21
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Okay, I pulled out my long level and did som measuring. The wheels are on some slightly uneven ground and sit anywhere from 0–2 degrees. The tongue jack sits just before a big transition, behind the jack is 6 degrees, forward of the jack Is 10–11 degrees.
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Old 06-20-2022, 08:13 PM   #22
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At our last house, had similar situation. 28' trailer with 3" lift, blue ox sway pro, incline driveway. I had to remove bars and hitch head to back in. Replaced with just a straight shank. Otherwise drop shank would drag. Once backed in. Used four harbor freight rubber wheel chocks and my X-chocks. Used tongue jack to get off the ball, but once truck out of the way, placed a very strong and stable treated wood stand under the coupler, then raised tongue jack just enough to take the load and bind off of it. I never used my stabilizers when in this position.
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Old 06-20-2022, 08:33 PM   #23
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Glad this isn’t my driveway

A neighbor down the street has an SOB trailer parked in his sloped driveway. He put wood ramps under the LH side tires to level the trailer and built a stack of blocks under the stabilizers and the tongue jack. He mortised out where the foot rests.

I’ve never been around to see him back the trailer in but it has to be quite a process. You might want to do something similar for your tongue jack.
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Old 06-21-2022, 05:36 AM   #24
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Wheel chocks and x chocks indeed.

Then I'd build a large platform for the tongue jack to sit on, say, 3x3 foot square, and a foot or two high. I'd build it to sit level under the tongue jack, meaning, just speaking in generalities, the front, downslope side might be 16 inches high while the rear, upslope side would be 4 inches high, whatever those measurements would be
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:09 AM   #25
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It seems most of the respondents would agree that the Jack needs to be as plumb as you can get it and that, while it allows you to level the trailer, it really is chocking the wheels that is most important. Making the stand plumb is pretty straightforward.

It’s been mentioned that chocking is more important in your case. It’s also been said that xchocks are for stabilizing per the brochure and that wheel chocks can and do move.

You could place a 4x4 or 6x6 (depends on tire size) that’s a suitable length to slide under your trailer from curbside to roadside with enough length to extend about a foot past each side of the trailer. This would be your ‘chock’. It could be anchored to your driveway by a length of rebar that ran thru the beam and into predrilled holes in your driveway surface (deep holes). Back your trailer up past your parking spot, slide the beam under the trailer in front of your tires, fasten with rebar and move trailer forward to sit against the beam. Want the bean angled? Any good wood shop will rip it for you. Don’t want a 9’ or so beam? Make two smaller beams, one for each tire, that attach in the same fashion.

I guess my basic thought is that, on a slope, I wouldn’t trust anything that was not attached in some fashion to the material I was parking on. Just my opinion. Interesting thread though and I’ve enjoyed reading the responses. Thanks
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:47 AM   #26
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This looks like an interesting situation. I think I your jack support block is too high. It looks like the Jack arm is already taking on too much stain and could cause it to fold under the trailer causing severe damage. Go with your gut on this one. I would forgo going in and out of the trailer where it's parked. So just jack it up enough to clear the hitch and lower it about half way down from where it currently is. And don't put down the support legs. That would be my main concern. If they bend or snap off you'll have a major repair issue. Have you thought about redoing your driveway?
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:45 AM   #27
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We’ve definitely thought about redoing the driveway. But that likely wouldn’t change our angles all that much when parked. The driveway to the edge of the parking strip on the street is just a bit over 45 feet. So the driveway itself is probably 35 to the sidewalk. Our tow vehicle barely stays out of traffic when hooking up or unhooking.
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Old 06-22-2022, 09:56 AM   #28
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I had the exact same issue on my 31' Classic because our driveway was really steep too. I found it best to raise the front jack up a little higher then level (1/2') and then rest the front of the trailer just forward of the cabin (next to the battery box) on two 3 ton Jack stands. Those four angle iron legs on each jack dig into the concrete and once lowered down onto them it is rock solid. Plus it takes the stress off that front electric jack.


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Old 06-22-2022, 10:43 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by thewolffman View Post
I had the exact same issue on my 31' Classic because our driveway was really steep too. I found it best to raise the front jack up a little higher then level (1/2') and then rest the front of the trailer just forward of the cabin (next to the battery box) on two 3 ton Jack stands. Those four angle iron legs on each jack dig into the concrete and once lowered down onto them it is rock solid. Plus it takes the stress off that front electric jack.

That would also bring back the forward stabilizing point to the less inclined part of our driveway. It makes me a bit nervous that those jack stands would not have the same fixed connection to the trailer as the tongue jack does. Is that concern unwarranted? Do you leave the tongue jack down still, just not under direct pressure, in case there is some reason for it to slip?

One additional concern I have, though not frequent in our area, we are at risk of experiencing earthquakes, so my setup would need to be able to hold even if the ground shook. (A case to add tandem, x-style chocks to my at home storage kit.)
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Old 06-22-2022, 10:58 AM   #30
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Hi

With our driveway, the answer is: Don't pull the trailer into the drive. It parks in the street and we load it up there.

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Old 06-26-2022, 10:13 AM   #31
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Never going anywhere

I camped at a park years ago.it was steep and I didn’t sleep very soundly that night. If I wanted it totally secured I would have a concrete anchor post several feet into the ground and use a heavy chain to secure it from rolling away and bad guys. Did you say you lived Florida? If so find indoor storage. Airstream’s don’t like the humidity.
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Old 06-26-2022, 01:02 PM   #32
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Did you say you lived Florida?

Nope. I did not.
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Old 06-26-2022, 01:29 PM   #33
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U really don't need to be level when storing the unit. I lowered the front to the bars on propride to make it harder to put chains under tounge.

Now if u are running LP refrigerator then up need to be level
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Old 06-26-2022, 01:56 PM   #34
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U really don't need to be level when storing the unit. I lowered the front to the bars on propride to make it harder to put chains under tounge.

I prefer to be level so that, among other things, when my daughter wants to go “play in the trailer” we’re not all tilted.
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibson3798 View Post
X-Chocks for the win......
Purchase two X-Chocks (compare brands on your own - there are several and they work about the same) and use one on each side of your rig. Please don’t rely on a plastic widgets from Camco. They manufacture and sell some outstanding products but, I don’t trust the plastic to prevent gravity from doing its thing and the consequences from the abrupt stop at the end (garage door, automobile, hill at campground etc.).

Also, check out a set of two Anderson Levelers! They’re from Utah. Check them out - you may see how they would work. I use both of the products I mentioned and for good measure - large black rubber chocks just to keep my wife happy.

Chock FIRST - stabilize LAST when setting up. Never use the stabilizers as jacks, they will bend and break. When tearing down De-stabilize FIRST and unchock LAST.

I too have Snap Pads, I love them! However, don’t rely on them to do more than they were designed to do. They may help prevent the rig from sliding but I wouldn’t bet on it.

Spend the money now on the right equipment rather than at the body shop and then buying the right equipment.

All the best, Bob
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:43 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hikingcamera View Post
Ugh, this is so much more complicated than our old single axle trailer.

We definitely are not relying on the tongue jack to keep the trailer in place, all 4 wheels are chocked, but if the tongue jack did slip off what it is resting on, that would not be good for the trailer or for anyone inside.

The point about what would happen if the front stabilizers were down if that did happen is a good one. We put them down to keep movement to a minimum and hopefully avoid any travel, but now you have me worried about that as well, lol. I am going to try to avoid putting anything under it when we park it again. And I’ll add pre-loading the chocks to my list when parking it.

The difference in strain on the axles is another good point. How do people handle camping on uneven terrain with dual axle trailers? Do you put something under the downhill tires to even them out?
I’m glad the concern with the stabilizers was pointed out. They would never stop the trailer from rolling. They would simply collapse, and maybe cause more damage. They aren’t strong, especially in a lateral direction, nor is the front jack. If the trailer did move, even a short distance the stabilizers would be damaged and cost big bucks to repair.
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:02 PM   #37
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X-Chocks for the win......
Fully agree!!
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Old 06-26-2022, 05:08 PM   #38
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I’m glad the concern with the stabilizers was pointed out. They would never stop the trailer from rolling. They would simply collapse, and maybe cause more damage. They aren’t strong, especially in a lateral direction, nor is the front jack. If the trailer did move, even a short distance the stabilizers would be damaged and cost big bucks to repair.

The goal with the stabilizers was never to stop the trailer from rolling, just reduce movement, which is exactly what they are designed to do. It was the secondary concern about what might happen if the tongue jack did slip off (albeit probably a minimal risk still with the high quality rubber chocks keeping the trailer in place) that was the potential issue.
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Old 06-27-2022, 07:25 AM   #39
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Sliding jack

Lots of good advice, but I found one more thing that helps with the jack sliding on plastic blocks. Place a piece of rubber mat like a thin yoga mat on top of the plastic blocks and under the jack pad. That stops any sliding.
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Old 06-27-2022, 08:51 AM   #40
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There's lots of mention of the tongue jack sliding, but I don't think it's the job of the tongue jack to prevent movement of the trailer.

If the jack is sliding at all, then there was a failure to properly chock the wheels to prevent movement. The ONLY movement that should be present at the tongue jack is up and down.
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