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Gringo · 09-24-2012, 07:59 AM

The crank down stabilizers help somewhat in keeping the trailer from moving around when people walk in it, but I would like to find something even better if it's out there. I've added two screw jacks under the jack points, and I use the orange plastic pads under the jacks and the stabilizers, but the trailer still moves quite a bit if someone is walking around in it. Enough that it wakes me up if someone else gets up at night.

Has anyone found any add-on stabilizing jacks that work well for the 27FB? There must be some kind of way to get the frame stable.

Alumaholic · 09-24-2012, 08:31 AM

...on my 2000 Safari 27' Airstream had installed lightweight BAL stabilizers designed for pop-up trailers. (See image)
I had the dealer install standard BAL stabilizers used on all earlier Airstreams, and longer modern Airstreams.
That is the only rational solution unless you want to look like the Beverly Hillbillies by the time you have implaced extra jack stands and dunnage.
Here's a link to a BAL video:

Video 1 Overview of BAL's Complete Line of Stabilizers, Jacks, and Chocks - YouTube

Oh, I also tighten my stabilizers a quarter turn every day.

CanoeStream · 09-24-2012, 08:42 AM

We've given this warning when people have asked about installing hydraulic levelers -- just don't plan on lifting the frame from anywhere but the big iron the axles are attached to. The frame is not beefy enough to level via corner jacks. Set up level and then use stabilizers to keep it from rocking.

We all recognize that engaging the BAL jacks does change how the trailer sits just a skosh. Don't do anything more with screw jacks. But I'd imagine even those will need a tad of tightening as you stay on one site for more than a night.

Gringo · 09-24-2012, 08:53 AM

well, that's the issue. I've read here is several places advice to 'level the trailer first then use the stabilizers to keep it from rocking'. But the stabilizers don't keep it from rocking.

Ganglin · 09-24-2012, 08:53 AM

I used the Standard BAL stabilizers once on our 71 and the trailer still had too much movement for me. So I guess we look like the Beverly Hillbillies. I use these - one on each section of the frame just where it exits the wrap. They are placed on a 2x6 treated lumber bases cut to fit the jacks. The trailer is stable now.

Aluminum Stabilizing Jack Stands (4-Pack), #44560

Gringo · 09-24-2012, 08:57 AM

I've got two of those screw jacks under the jack points on the trailer now. that gives me two stablizers and two jacks aft of the wheels. I can't find any other jack points forward of the wheels. is there someplace safe to support the frame with two more screw jacks?

**DKB_SATX** · 09-24-2012, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganglin

I used the Standard BAL stabilizers once on our 71 and the trailer still had too much movement for me. So I guess we look like the Beverly Hillbillies. I use these - one on each section of the frame just where it exits the wrap. The are placed on a 2x6 treated lumber bases cut to fit the jacks. The trailer is stable now.

Aluminum Stabilizing Jack Stands (4-Pack), #44560

I hated those things with a passion. My trailer came with a set of them, and besides being a pain to set up they don't seem to do as much for left-to-right motion as the BAL stabilizers I installed. I suspect I'll notice motion a lot more now that I have axles that actually move up and down, but I was not a fan of the freestanding screw-jack things.

jdalrymple · 09-24-2012, 09:27 AM

Locking the tires with something like the BAL X-Chock helps some too.

I got out of the habit of using the chocks on level spots, being too lazy to use them. But, they do help the shaking some.

I have also learned to tighten the screws on the stabilizers a time or two after things have had time to settle. They always seem to stand a little more.

JD

CanoeStream · 09-24-2012, 09:28 AM

It's probably lost to posterity, but somebody at AIR once posted a picture of their punctured bellypan. They'd put a jack under the 'Jack Here' label at one of the corners. It slid off the 2" wide frame at that point and ... you get the rest.

Ganglin, do you use anything to stabilize the contact point where the jack contacts the frame?

**DKB_SATX** · 09-24-2012, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdalrymple

Locking the tires with something like the BAL X-Chock helps some too.

I got out of the habit of using the chocks on level spots, being too lazy to use them. But, they do help the shaking some.

I have also learned to tighten the screws on the stabilizers a time or two after things have had time to settle. They always seem to stand a little more.

JD

I also use a knock-off version of X-Chocks, and have since the first time I camped in the trailer. I wonder if that's part of the reason I'm happy with the BAL stabilizers?

Ganglin · 09-24-2012, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanoeStream

It's probably lost to posterity, but somebody at AIR once posted a picture of their punctured bellypan. They'd put a jack under the 'Jack Here' label at one of the corners. It slid off the 2" wide frame at that point and ... you get the rest.

Ganglin, do you use anything to stabilize the contact point where the jack contacts the frame?

I carry 4 small blocks of 2x4 in case I need more height. Also 4 squares of rubber pad that are used with or without the 2x4 but that is to prevent scratching the paint on the frame. Personally these work better for me. The trailer is rock solid once they are in place. I can see someone getting in a hurry and placing a jack on the frame and having it slip off and thru the belly pan. Mine are set outside the underbelly and I've been doing this long enough to make sure they are set properly.

Wazbro · 09-24-2012, 12:58 PM

You could try these.
SteadyFast: 5th Wheel and RV Travel Trailer Stabilizer System

Gringo · 09-24-2012, 01:09 PM

those cross braces look slick, and make sense. But they state that you also need good jacks. That's where I started.

M2HB · 10-03-2012, 05:56 PM

One reason that you may feel the movement of the trailer, even with the stabilizers down is because of the lightweight frame. It will flex, even with the stabilizers down. I don't know how many stabilizers it will take to keep it from being noticable, but it may be more than you are willing to deal with.

With a strong frame, you would be able to jack up the trailer from any location where you could put a jack on the frame. Even a heavy frame will flex, you just won't feel it as much.

gwchitty · 10-03-2012, 06:28 PM

We use the old aluminum stabilizers shown in the Camco ad. I'm happy just to take out the bounce of the suspension and tires.

Aage · 10-03-2012, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M2HB

One reason that you may feel the movement of the trailer, even with the stabilizers down is because of the lightweight frame

Also, the floor support spacing is much wider than in normal house construction, so no matter what you do to support the frame, you will always get floor flex.

A W Warn · 10-03-2012, 07:42 PM

Gringo,
I have the same issue that you do. I think what I feel is the trailer rocking on it's wheels in a back and forth motion, more than a bounce. I can crank my stabilizers almost to the ground and easily move them front and back an inch or so by hand. I crank at setup onto wood block and re-tighten like stated above and still get the movement. I have been told a wheel lock between both wheels will help stop the rocking. I have not tried it myself. What I'm talking about is something like what is shown in the attached web links, but there are other brands.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ng-chock/43891
or
Ultra-Fab Chock and Lock Wheel Stabilizer for Tandem-Axle Trailers and RVs - Up to 10" Wide Ultra-Fab Products Wheel Chocks UF21-001080

polarlyse · 10-05-2012, 05:09 PM

I cut some plywood rectangles that I carry with me. If my stabilizers are on grass / gravel / dirt I always put one under the pad. If I am jacking the trailer from the frame lift points I always use one between the jack and body. Should offer extra protection should there be some slippage and help prevent the jack from penetrating the belly pan. Anyhow, it makes me feel a little better.

Aage · 10-05-2012, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarlyse

I cut some plywood rectangles that I carry with me. If my stabilizers are on grass / gravel / dirt I always put one under the pad.

Or you can buy big screw-on "mushroom" feet for the legs. They aren't too cheap, but sooo convenient. I asked for them for my birthday, but nobody was listening.

Ag&Au · 10-05-2012, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Gringo,
I have the same issue that you do. I think what I feel is the trailer rocking on it's wheels in a back and forth motion, more than a bounce. I can crank my stabilizers almost to the ground and easily move them front and back an inch or so by hand. I crank at setup onto wood block and re-tighten like stated above and still get the movement. I have been told a wheel lock between both wheels will help stop the rocking. I have not tried it myself. What I'm talking about is something like what is shown in the attached web links, but there are other brands.
X-Chock Tire Locking Chock - BAL 28010 - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World
or
Ultra-Fab Chock and Lock Wheel Stabilizer for Tandem-Axle Trailers and RVs - Up to 10" Wide Ultra-Fab Products Wheel Chocks UF21-001080

I bought two X-Chocks and used them for the first time a couple weeks ago. I definitely could feel the difference from using the stabilizers alone. The trailer felt basically rock solid.

Ken