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Old 07-07-2014, 11:24 PM   #1
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1964 24' Tradewind
2006 39' Land Yacht 396 XL
Lawrence , Kansas
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70 mph Winds

I have been using a 10" by 10" by 18" wood block laid sideways and yellow stacking blocks with my tongue jack and for the second time this year the trailer was blown off the wood block. Both times I have also had my 4 jack stands set also. The wheels were blocked with campo plastic wheel chocks. Every thing was blown away from the trailer. The first time the trailer was in storage so I do not know the conditions but tonight we had 70 mph winds. Trailer is a single axle 24' 64 Tradewind. I am I doing something wrong? Is this normal for such high winds? Is there something I can do to make more stable?
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:30 AM   #2
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I can only share a couple of experiences.

Once camping on the Washington coast with my '63 Bambi I fortunately left it attached to my Mercedes 300 diesel. The wind blew so hard that night, I rocked and swayed and think if I had not been attached to the MB, it would have blown off the jack or moved in some other way. No idea of the actual wind, but it was a coastal gale.

I have friends who have a place just outside of Glacier Park, on the east side of the Rockies. Winds there can be very high, over 80 mph. I have stayed there and not been comfortable at all, front tongue jack down and stabilizers well cranked for solid footing. I have not been there in over 60 mph wind, but at 60, I wondered if it was going to stay put. It did.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:45 AM   #3
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For 70 mph winds, it sounds like you should anchor your trailer down. You may wish to check with companies who anchor "manufactured homes" to see what's needed.

However, I would be worried about storm debris damaging your Tradewind. If you face this type of severe weather on a regular basis, you may wish to look into indoor or protected storage (if it's affordable).
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:22 AM   #4
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Point the nose into the wind?

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Old 07-08-2014, 05:41 AM   #5
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1964 24' Tradewind
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Lawrence , Kansas
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I normally keep in covered storage but I had it at the house to polish. Of course, on the one hand it is what you might expect. After all, trees and fences are down but since it has happened two times in 6 months it started me wondering if I was using an poor method for setting it up. Although I do not see that I am doing anything different than most others. The tongue jack, wood block, and 4 yellow blocks were not over extended.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:10 AM   #6
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If you can find set of rubber chocks like semi trailers use get them as it almost impossible to move trailer. I just had 80+ mph winds nothing moved exc. lost lots of trees. I think plastic blocks would be slippery when placed on wood.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:28 AM   #7
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Big rubber chocks

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Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
If you can find set of rubber chocks like semi trailers use get them as it almost impossible to move trailer. I just had 80+ mph winds nothing moved exc. lost lots of trees. I think plastic blocks would be slippery when placed on wood.
Northern Tool has them for $9 or so apiece.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:38 AM   #8
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1964 24' Tradewind
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Yes the plastic chocks have me wondering. They never have fit real tight and the wind had blown them away from the trailer. I got them because they were light weight. I think of chocks stoping forward and backward motion but maybe good ones would stop twisting motion also. Of course if the wind is strong enough nothing will help.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:31 AM   #9
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Smile chocks

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Originally Posted by ttbikes View Post
Yes the plastic chocks have me wondering. They never have fit real tight and the wind had blown them away from the trailer. I got them because they were light weight. I think of chocks stoping forward and backward motion but maybe good ones would stop twisting motion also. Of course if the wind is strong enough nothing will help.
Rubber semi chocks that I quoted, you use 2 one in front of wheel 1 in back trailer will not twist or roll forward or backwards. I forgot to pick mine up as it is one of last things to do. My big eng. pick up did not want to move trailer mine have eye bolts w/chain to hook together so both have to come out. I purloined mine when snow plowing truck docks a few yrs. ago
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:43 AM   #10
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Agree that rubber wheel chocks generally work best on paved surfaces.

My question is why are you storing with the stabilizers down/jack stands in place and the stab jack on a large wooden block?


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Old 07-08-2014, 09:48 AM   #11
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Use the heavy rubber chocks in front and back of the wheel(s) on both sides of the trailer. That blocks the twisting motion in two places.

Seat them on solid ground, if there is any. Drive them against the tire with a swift kick, but make sure they stay straight. Get as much contact, and therefore friction to resist movement, as possible.

The ones I got from Northern do have the rings for a rope.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:00 AM   #12
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Smile

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Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post
Use the heavy rubber chocks in front and back of the wheel(s) on both sides of the trailer. That blocks the twisting motion in two places.

Seat them on solid ground, if there is any. Drive them against the tire with a swift kick, but make sure they stay straight. Get as much contact, and therefore friction to resist movement, as possible.

The ones I got from Northern do have the rings for a rope.
I only have 1 set have never had twisting or rolling, so I believe sets both sides are over kill, plus rope would be a little lighter but mine had chains all ready chains a little long for truck tires. They will work just as well on soft ground
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:02 AM   #13
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1964 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin245 View Post
Agree that rubber wheel chocks generally work best on paved surfaces.

My question is why are you storing with the stabilizers down/jack stands in place and the stab jack on a large wooden block?


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Because I have it in my driveway and I am working on it. The Driveway slants enough that I need the wood block to level it. The stabilizers keep it from rocking while I polish it and work on things inside. But for the other side of question why would it not be more stable that way in storage also?
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:21 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by ttbikes View Post
...But for the other side of question why would it not be more stable that way in storage also?
The wood block certainly is big enough to provide a stable base for storage but I would recommend you add a piece of rubber floor mat between the wood and the stab jack base plate to increase the coefficient of friction. A piece of mat on the ground contact side would not hurt either. A few well place roofing nails should secure the mats.

As for the stabilizers, they are typically used for short duration applications rather than long term storage, and they are usually located at the outboard regions of the frame in most instances. Most tires lose air over the course of time which lowers the ride height and increases the load on the stabilizers. In most instances the stabilizers, or the area of the frame where they are placed is not designed to carry these kinds of loads and you may end up bending or crushing the stabilizers or part of the frame. I've seen this happen in more than one instance.

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Kevin
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:56 AM   #15
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They deal with small air craft and hi winds with nylon straps and deck rings.
Airborne trailers ?. I leave it hooked up to TV when i can.
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