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Old 06-09-2004, 02:08 PM   #1
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weatherstripping didn't stick

using 3M super gasket adhesive...I followed the directions on the label. These are different than Andy's instructions, so I flipped a coin and went w/ the manufacturer's recommendations. (that'll learn me. )

This is on the main entry door, so its kind of awkward. it stuck on half of it; the other half didn't. so I tried to apply more adhesive to the door and gasket, and try again...still wouldn't stick. should I remove the sealant from the metal, now, before trying again? for the first attempt, I had all the old sealant removed completely...went through 2 dremel wire brushes to get it all off. the surface was squeeky-clean.
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Old 06-09-2004, 02:13 PM   #2
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Chuck,

I would remove the adhesive if it were me. I had the same issue. Make sure to wipe down the weatherstrip with mineral spirits before you start. Then put a thin layer on the weatherstrip and on the door frame. Allow both to set up for 5-15 min before attaching the weatherstrip to the door. It'll work like a champ.

BTW, I had an issue with the screen door hinges pulling the weatherstrip off when the door closed. I fixed this by cutting the "flaps" of the weatherstrip at those points. I haven't experienced any leaks as a result of that and we've had some pretty bad storms and a ton of rain lately.

Good luck.

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Old 06-09-2004, 02:37 PM   #3
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a-HA. yes, the non-sticking part is on the hinge side, and it seems to have radiated outward from where the screen door pinches it. the other side stuck just fine. I didn't do the "mineral spirits" thing on the gasket beforehand, either.

funny how the 3M instructions say to put an extra layer of sticky on the gasket before pressing it into place. seems that is just too much adhesive.
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Old 06-09-2004, 04:14 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
a-HA. yes, the non-sticking part is on the hinge side, and it seems to have radiated outward from where the screen door pinches it. the other side stuck just fine. I didn't do the "mineral spirits" thing on the gasket beforehand, either.
funny how the 3M instructions say to put an extra layer of sticky on the gasket before pressing it into place. seems that is just too much adhesive.
Chuck,
Sorry to hear about your problem..
When I did my door:
  • 1. I cleaned the surface back to bare metal.
    2. Precut the strips.
    3. Spread a line of 3M adhesive.
    (one side of the door's frame at a time)
    4. Then spread the adhesive on the gasket I intended to use.
    5. Wait until both section were semi tackie.
    6. Re-applied adhesive to the gasket, as I was working it into position~
Results so far looks excellent..
The only bad thing was, my fingers suffered in the process..
Stuff is hard to get off..
I did wear latex gloves at first..What a joke`
It may well outlast me~!..lmao
ciao
53FC
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Old 06-09-2004, 04:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53FlyingCloud

2. Precut the strips.
53FC
strips? how many pieces did you use? gee, I figured I was cheating when I cut a separate piece for the bottom edge of the door. for the rest, I cut one loooonnggg strip...one big arch. makes it rather cumbersome. so are the big windows, for that matter. but at least you can easily take them out and lay them flat on a bench.
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Old 06-09-2004, 04:30 PM   #6
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Thumbs up Yeppers

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
strips? how many pieces did you use? gee, I figured I was cheating when I cut a separate piece for the bottom edge of the door. for the rest, I cut one loooonnggg strip...one big arch. makes it rather cumbersome. so are the big windows, for that matter. but at least you can easily take them out and lay them flat on a bench.
Aww, yes..you're right..
The strips was for the lil door inside of the door..(screen door section).
The main door was one looong piece..lol
Still, the end results was excellent.
ciao
53FC..
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Old 06-11-2004, 06:03 PM   #7
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Gaskets that have been applied with super weatherstrip adhesive, must have a day or so of inactivity.

Then, lube them very generously with stupid spray (silicone spray).

That allows the gasket to slide on the metal surfaces correctly, so that you don't rip it off.

Manufacturers instructs are usually general in nature.

We try to provide specific instructions since we deal with a specfic application of gaskets.

All the old adhesive "MUST" be removed prior to the application of new adhesive. To not do so is asking for failure.

It is not necessary to wipe down any Airstream provided gasket prior to the application of an adhesive. Should someone use something that may have even a slight oil base, the gasket will not bond with maximum strength.

Andy
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Old 04-02-2005, 01:41 PM   #8
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Gasket application

I've been trying to post a new thread on this but it won't let me!!

OK...do I squirt a "line" of adhesive, or do I then spread it out a little with my gloved finger? Whichever I do, do I do it on the window frame *and* the gasket?

Then, should I put more adhesive behind the gasket after it's installed, as a seal, or will it be fine once the gasket is on and sticks?
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Old 04-02-2005, 02:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes
...do I squirt a "line" of adhesive, or do I then spread it out a little with my gloved finger? Whichever I do, do I do it on the window frame *and* the gasket?

Then, should I put more adhesive behind the gasket after it's installed, as a seal, or will it be fine once the gasket is on and sticks?
The adhesive should be smoothed out flat no matter how it is applied. You want a thin layer on the frame & the gasket, as it is an adhesive, not a filler or sealer.

Don't apply any more adhesive after installing the gasket - It's function is to bind, not seal.

Tom
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Old 04-02-2005, 02:52 PM   #10
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Spirits ???

When cleaning the area prepared, I'm not sure if mineral spirits is the best to use. Could leave a residue.

I use Alcohol, 91-98 %, not the lower percentages that are also on the shelf.

You can get it at the local drug store, but insure it doesn't have anything like wintergreen or other stuff mixed in with it.
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Old 04-02-2005, 03:17 PM   #11
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Got it. I may have to remove a couple of feet and do it again, but I got the hang of it towards the end.

i.
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Old 04-02-2005, 03:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftwood
..I'm not sure if mineral spirits is the best to use. Could leave a residue...
Ditto.

Good catch dirftwood!

Mineral spirits would be the kiss-O-death for good adhesion.

I used acetone although alcohol or lacquer thinner would have done the job.

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Old 04-03-2005, 11:23 AM   #13
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Has anyone tried using HD or Lowes weatherstripping? The white weatherstripping comes in a variety of shapes and thicknesses, some has pressure sensitive adhesive for attachement.

Maybe I'll be the "ghinea pig" and try some on my battery door, or fridge hatch. Can't be any worse than the dry rotted stuff that's on their now.
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Old 04-03-2005, 11:36 AM   #14
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Yes, I used it on my access doors with excellent results. My windows are gasketed with the factory recommended material.

The funny thing is that that type of weatherstripping is what originally came on the three access doors on my '67 Airstream. I asked InlandRV about it, but they only recommend using the same gasket used on the windows.

UV-wise, I don't think the HD weatherstripping would last long on a window.

Tom
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Old 04-03-2005, 11:49 AM   #15
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Ingrid.

Please read our post (above) dated 6-4 2004, regarding proper application of weatherstrip adhesive when replacing the entrance door, window, and access door gaskets.

Using substitute gaskets is not recommended. The Airstream gaskets are not only intended to seal out the weather, they also are intended to put some tension on themselves, to insure that the gasket stays sealed when hitting bumps, etc.

Contrary to opinion, the windows, main door and access doors, all move when the shell is tweaked, or when hitting larger bumps.

Andy
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