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12-21-2015, 10:15 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2009 25' FB International
York
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 10
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Tested various sealants - FYI
After reading lots of posts about the various products, decided to purchase a selection and test for myself. Project is replacing a couple of clearance lights on my 09 25 FB International.
Here's what I bought:
Sikaflex-221, Parbond, Trempro 635, ACRYL-R in 12 oz can with applicator, Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal by Ply Gem Industries. Goal was to look at appearance, adhesion, dry time and overall toughness. I applied samples to a piece of aluminum on Dec 17. It is now Dec 21. Material is in a climate controlled area with average temp of 65 F.
Results:
Sikaflex-221 - Nice gray look, pulled cleanly away from aluminum without much effort (not sure if this is good), 24 hours was well cured, toughest product.
Trempro 635 - Nice gray and slightly shinier than Sikaflex, more difficult to pull away from aluminum and left residue, 24 well cured, slightly less tough than Sikaflex.
Parbond - Better aluminum look and easier to apply a tiny bead, clean removal from aluminum, 24 hrs well cured, tough.
Aluminum Gutter Seal - Nice aluminum color, makes a nice bead out of tube but self leveled out a bit more than I wanted, adheres well to aluminum, 24 hour cure, not as tough as Parbond.
ACRYL-R - Nice aluminum color, I didn't try applicator nozzle but placed a blob on aluminum. It self leveled to a degree. Very much adheres to aluminum and will be extremely difficult to remove. After 4 days material still may not be totally cured. At this point I can still move the blob around a bit with my fingernail.
Conclusions for me:
Either Sikaflex or Tempro for through the body sealing (wiring, screw holes, etc.). Parbond for appearance around light fixtures possibly.
Any feedback will always be appreciated
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12-21-2015, 11:05 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2008 25' Classic
Full Time
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,309
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I've used Parbond around lights. Works well for than, maybe due to it being dispensed from a tube.
Surprised the Sikaflex 221 pulls away easily. I was planning on using that on my roof vents this spring. I guess as long as it seals well, stands up to the elements and lasts a long time, easy removal is a good thing.
Kelvin
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
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12-21-2015, 11:29 AM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1976 29' Ambassador
Fitchburg
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 174
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I used Acryl-R to seal all seams on our 29' Ambassador. It does take a while to skin over but I think this will help keep the seal in place. I also like the way a bead shrinks in width as it drys.
Dennis
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12-21-2015, 12:28 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1994 30' Excella
alexandria
, Kentucky
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,321
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Acryl-R is my favorite for small seams - seems to stay flexible for years - workable if your quick.
Sikaflex - This product seems more workable than Trempro. Both seem to last about the same.
__________________
Steve, Christy, Anna and Phoebe (Border Collie)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley Arrow hitch with adjustable stinger
WBCCI # 3072
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12-21-2015, 06:15 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,319
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I like the Acryl-R for seam sealing. The "self leveling" helps the applied material wick into seams.
Jackson Center service techs were using Acryl-R when I was there for some major repairs. So I bought a can of it at their store in the waiting area.
David
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12-21-2015, 06:40 PM
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#6
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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Did you clean the aluminum first? I also believe there may be a primer for Sikaflex. I would have to check on that one. The Sikaflex and the Trempro are very similar in chemical makeup.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
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12-21-2015, 07:46 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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If you cleaned the aluminum surface prior to application (which is a MUST) and used any type of cleaning agent that contains any type of alcohol, then you have compromised the bonding properties of the SikaFlex.
I've been using it non-stop for 15 years and have NEVER been able to pull it from any aluminum surface when properly prepped. It doesn't even scrape well when cured.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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12-21-2015, 08:21 PM
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#8
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Airstream Driver
1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbodenstein
After reading lots of posts about the various products, decided to purchase a selection and test for myself. Project is replacing a couple of clearance lights on my 09 25 FB International.
Here's what I bought:
Sikaflex-221, Parbond, Trempro 635, ACRYL-R in 12 oz can with applicator, Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal by Ply Gem Industries. Goal was to look at appearance, adhesion, dry time and overall toughness. I applied samples to a piece of aluminum on Dec 17. It is now Dec 21. Material is in a climate controlled area with average temp of 65 F. ......
Any feedback will always be appreciated
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Did you make your tests on aluminum or clear coated aluminum?
You will get completely different results on Clear coats, I.e. Vulkem 116 sticks like thunder to raw aluminum , but can be peeled of after drying from clear coated surfaces.
__________________
1994 30' Excella Front Kitchen Trailer
1990 25' Excella Travel trailer
1992 350LE Classic Touring Coach
AIR #13
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12-22-2015, 05:14 PM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Excella 500
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
If you cleaned the aluminum surface prior to application (which is a MUST) and used any type of cleaning agent that contains any type of alcohol, then you have compromised the bonding properties of the SikaFlex.
I've been using it non-stop for 15 years and have NEVER been able to pull it from any aluminum surface when properly prepped. It doesn't even scrape well when cured.
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What do you use to clean the aluminum.
Thanks
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12-22-2015, 05:46 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaKs
What do you use to clean the aluminum.
Thanks
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Carburetor cleaner or mineral spirits. I prefer the carb cleaner.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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12-23-2015, 12:02 PM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
2009 25' FB International
York
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 10
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Many responses appreciated.
Thanks a bunch everyone. This is what I was after in originally post. I've learned a lot already.
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12-23-2015, 04:47 PM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
2018 27' Globetrotter
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbodenstein
After reading lots of posts about the various products, decided to purchase a selection and test for myself. Project is replacing a couple of clearance lights on my 09 25 FB International.
Here's what I bought:
Sikaflex-221, Parbond, Trempro 635, ACRYL-R in 12 oz can with applicator, Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal by Ply Gem Industries. Goal was to look at appearance, adhesion, dry time and overall toughness. I applied samples to a piece of aluminum on Dec 17. It is now Dec 21. Material is in a climate controlled area with average temp of 65 F.
Results:
Sikaflex-221 - Nice gray look, pulled cleanly away from aluminum without much effort (not sure if this is good), 24 hours was well cured, toughest product.
Trempro 635 - Nice gray and slightly shinier than Sikaflex, more difficult to pull away from aluminum and left residue, 24 well cured, slightly less tough than Sikaflex.
Parbond - Better aluminum look and easier to apply a tiny bead, clean removal from aluminum, 24 hrs well cured, tough.
Aluminum Gutter Seal - Nice aluminum color, makes a nice bead out of tube but self leveled out a bit more than I wanted, adheres well to aluminum, 24 hour cure, not as tough as Parbond.
ACRYL-R - Nice aluminum color, I didn't try applicator nozzle but placed a blob on aluminum. It self leveled to a degree. Very much adheres to aluminum and will be extremely difficult to remove. After 4 days material still may not be totally cured. At this point I can still move the blob around a bit with my fingernail.
Conclusions for me:
Either Sikaflex or Tempro for through the body sealing (wiring, screw holes, etc.). Parbond for appearance around light fixtures possibly.
Any feedback will always be appreciated
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Very helpful info, thanks!
Is there any difference between the ACRYL-R that you used and the ACRYL-R sealant caulk in a tube? ( Amazon.com: RV Motorhome Joint Sealant Acryl-R Caulk, 10.3 oz, Aluminum: Home Improvement) I don't know whether I could get a consistent application with a brush.
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12-24-2015, 09:38 PM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member
1990 32' Excella
jonesboro
, Arkansas
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 257
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Sealant
Try vulkem polyurethane caulk and see lf you like it .You don't want a sealant that pulls away from the surface with out major effort. Would not work in areas where it needs to flow in.
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02-02-2016, 06:51 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2005 31' Classic
Garner,
, North Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,031
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how about brake cleaner the Non-Chlorinated type. Is this the same as carb cleaner. when using mineral spirits you just wipe down the area you are working on an let dry pretty much??
Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Carburetor cleaner or mineral spirits. I prefer the carb cleaner.
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__________________
Carl, Raleigh NC
2-24-16 got a 2005 Classic 31D 460 watts solar, lithium 230 AH, 16" LT's, pulled by:
2003 F-250 SD, CC, 7.3L PowerStroke
WBCCI#1691, Piedmont Airstream Club, Unit #161, Region #3
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02-02-2016, 07:22 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Should work. Just be sure you don't use alcohol around polyurethane sealants.
Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center*AMS Lithium Batteries
Lifeline AGM Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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07-02-2021, 02:38 AM
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#16
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1 Rivet Member
1986 32' Excella
Currently Looking...
Wurster Nordseekueste
, Lower Saxony Germany
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Should work. Just be sure you don't use alcohol around polyurethane sealants.
Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center*AMS Lithium Batteries
Lifeline AGM Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357
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Hello,
i know this is an old post, but i hope i can still ask a question about it.
First of all, I'm from Germany and have a 1986 Airstream Excella 32 ". Unfortunately, some seams are leaking and the caravan is leaking. So I read this post with interest.
Do I understand correctly that "Acryl-R with Applicator" pulls under the aluminum and thereby seals?
There is still a streak of sealant visible on the outside of the seam, doesn't it? If so, can I treat it or wipe it away so that nothing is visible from the outside?
I hope you can help me.
Best regards
Ronald
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07-02-2021, 07:09 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,319
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Greetings and welcome from Colorado: Your leaking Airstream is no different than most old Airstreams. Fighting leaks is a constant battle. But if you win, your Airstream will last longer.
Acra L used to be sold by Airstream. When I visited the factory 8 years ago, most of the service techs has a applicator can of it in their work area. I purchased some, and used it up on my trailer. It is a "wicking" type sealant and supposedly wicks into the seams where it can. Maybe I used it wrong, but it did leave a bead of sealant visible on the seam. See photo.
David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
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07-03-2021, 12:31 PM
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#18
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1 Rivet Member
1986 32' Excella
Currently Looking...
Wurster Nordseekueste
, Lower Saxony Germany
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
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Hi David,
Thanks for your quick reply.
Did you use the "applicator" during processing?
I've read that you should use "Acryl-R Can with Applicator". Is it possible to draw such fine seams with the applicator that the bead is not there ???
I don't know, but that would be great and what I'm looking for.
Maybe there is something else that pulls under the seams and seals them? I am grateful for every tip.
Best regards Ronald
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07-03-2021, 12:44 PM
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#19
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Freedom
2023 30' Classic
Dallas
, TX
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 586
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I use Acryl-R with the Applicator. After a little experience with it I can lay a consistent fine beed along the seam lines. I only do this when I can place my unit in storage for at least 30 days. It takes it a while to setup so rain and road conditions don't have an adverse affect on it.
__________________
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2023 30 Foot Classic
2022 Ram 3500 Dually
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07-03-2021, 01:42 PM
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#20
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1 Rivet Member
1986 32' Excella
Currently Looking...
Wurster Nordseekueste
, Lower Saxony Germany
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
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Is it possible to smooth “Acryl-R” after processing? Similar to a silicone joint?
Or does it only help to practice and then it works with a nice seam?
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