Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-06-2011, 05:58 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
I am about 90% sure it is the window. There is water on either side of the window frame on the floor. I am not sure if these big fixed windows are made like the little oval shaped windows or not. I do know the seal between the panes is bad because there is water between them.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 07:41 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
Dingo Girl's Avatar
 
1967 17' Caravel
Cadillac , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,249
Images: 3
My Caravel front window leaked like a sieve, it turned out to be the "AIRSTREAM" badge on the front of the trailer above the window. Just a thought.
Dingo Girl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 11:09 AM   #23
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
Itasca , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,044
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Automotive design LEDs usually means having them in circuit when the car alternator or the battery charging is active, they may seem dim when its just on battery alone, especially if its a partially discharged battery.

There is a fine line there between over-amping a LED and perhaps shortening its life but not having it dim when run on battery alone. Remember a car alternator throws out 14.7V and a 50% charged battery alone will read fLA 12.20V ~ GEL 12.35V ~ AGM 12.30V...

I just found all that out with hazard light-bar strobe modules using LEDs - when on 12V alone they are pretty wimpy. A quality LED driver may accept 9-18V input to run the lamp at some precise & constant internal voltage while a cheaper lamp may just accept line voltage but limit the current.
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 11:36 AM   #24
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
Wabbit I think you may have posted to the wrong thread.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 11:53 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
Itasca , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,044
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Posts 9, 10 and 12 this thread says I didn't.
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 05:34 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
I think I am going to remove the skin around the window. It looks like it will be easy to do and I can make sure where the leak is coming from that way. I can also make sure I get it stopped.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2011, 09:10 AM   #27
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
I tried tapeing the bottom of the window by the door and it still leaks. I am definately going to have to remove that wall skin around the window. I don't know of another way to isolate the leak. I could have a leak somewhere else like the wing window on that side and the water is running down the C-channel and coming out that gap where the corner meets the straight wall. When I get the skins off I can tell if the water is coming strait down or if it is coming down the C-channel. The window frames have been sealed but I guess I could have a gasket leak or some rivets leaking.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 12:46 PM   #28
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
Ok well my leaks that I have tried so hard to fix look like they are in the Z-stringer rivets to the right of the door. That area takes a lot of punishment between being a weak area due to the door being there and the constant slamming of the door. No wonder there is a rotten place in the floor to the right of the door. I think I will put in some drains in the C-channel to get rid of water from inevitable leaks. It does not take much water to get between floor covering and the sub floor. Once there the water stays and rots everything. If you can keep the water off the floor then all the better. Dispite what others profess there is no way to totally eliminate leaks. They are going to be there. So knowing that, manage the water leaks in such as way as to render them harmless. Which means seal the C-channel gaps at the 4 corners and put in drains to drain the water below the floor. It is not hard to do on the scale of what others have done.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2012, 06:37 PM   #29
Rivet Master
 
Splitrock's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls , South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
Blog Entries: 20
The hardest leak for me to find required the removal of the inside skin in front of the door to the front endcap. That leak didn't appear on the surface of the wood floor at all. It followed the outside skin to the channel and down into the belly pan. It would have wicked into the wood floor and rotted it out again. The source of the leak was the midway outside skin lap corner where 4 panels meet. It looked fine from the outside as well as from the inside, but it leaked every time it rained.

The other leak in the same area that went right to the channel was the vista window. That one I could see with the inside skin on, but it was easier to fix and much easier to test with the skin removed. Vulkem 116 fixed both of those.
__________________
Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
https://visitsiouxfalls.com/assets/i...uxfalls-og.jpg
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
Splitrock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2012, 08:14 AM   #30
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
I found another leak at the bottom seam of the fixed window to the right of the door. The frame is made of 2 halves and there is no way for it to leak accept at the seam where the two halves meet. I can seal this one from the inside but the rivets are going to have to be sealed from the outside.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 09:04 AM   #31
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
Well it looks like Acryl-R is the recommended sealant over Parbond. I have seen this stuff sold in the can and also the caulk tube. Is there any difference in the two? The caulk tube seems like the cheapest and lowest hassel way to do it?


"Standard caulking guns or industrial pump and flow gun"

Here is the spec sheet from Schenee-Morehead don't as me how to pronounce it.

http://acrylr.com/pdf-sm/SM5504TDS.pdf I think this is the one to get but I found the spec below as well.

http://acrylr.com/pdf-sm/SM5522TDS.pdf

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 06:31 PM   #32
Always learning
 
Lance M's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,867
Images: 24
Blog Entries: 2
Send a message via Yahoo to Lance M
The composition of them is the same. Just different delivery methods. I have the can with the pump attached I purchased from the Airstream store. I use the pump to pump it into a Veterinary syringe for application.
__________________
Lance

Work is never done, so take time to play!
Lance M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2012, 07:00 PM   #33
Restorations done right
Commercial Member
 
Frank's Trailer Works's Avatar
 
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
Images: 2
I shoot the acryl R using the pump. Worth the money, cannot imagine trying to apply using a caulk gun.
Frank's Trailer Works is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 03:30 PM   #34
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
Ok window leak is fixed but I still have a leak to the right of the door. I put some Parbond on the rivets along the Z-stringer the right of the door. However, the leak is still there. I stuck my hand up under the awning and felt yet another rivet up there where it is constantly soaked by wet canvas. I am wondering what the purpose is of the awning cover if it lets water soak the canvas. It seems that we need an awning cover for the awning cover. I have not been above the awning cover to see if that Z-stringer goes above the cover but I am betting that it does. Don't you just love leaks. We have had about 6 inches of rain here in about 2 hrs. I guess when I get it to not leak in a rain like that, then I am done.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 07:59 PM   #35
Rivet Master
 
Splitrock's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls , South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
Blog Entries: 20
My trailer sheltered 5 missing rivets hidden under the awning roller. That was in addition to many loose rivets attaching the awning rail. It was all easy to fix by removing the roller.
__________________
Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
https://visitsiouxfalls.com/assets/i...uxfalls-og.jpg
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
Splitrock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 08:39 PM   #36
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 17,137
Images: 1
Perry,


Got the Acryl-R here.

And the Plews gun here.

AS store was out of stock and the $$$ was a little better.


Bob
__________________
Obrigado, hora de descansar.

Tahawus
🌤
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 10:26 PM   #37
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,008
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
I have been a fan of drains in the "C" channel for a long time. Especially on each side of the entry door. It just makes sense to let the water out the bottom of the trailer instead of inside and onto the floor. I can't believe an 8" long drain on each side of the door way would affect the structural integrity in any way.
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 06:02 AM   #38
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
I am not sure you need much area for the drain. Just a few well placed holes with some sort liner like a pipe would be good. This way the water can drain and not soak the floor. I will probably put in a drain to the right of the door since there is one there now anyway.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2012, 06:29 AM   #39
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,134
Well I think I have found all my leaks to the right of the door. I sealed my big fixed window to the right of the door and got rid of one leak. The other leak was along the Z-channel rivet line to the right of the door. I sealed all the rivets with Parbond although I may use something else eventually as mentioned above. I found a new leak up front in the vicinity of the battery box. I will have to remove the skin at the very front next. I was able to repair some rock dents in the end cap area by pushing them out with the handle of a chisle or screw driver. I need to start putting things back together before too long or their will be no camping in the spring.

These leaks I have been chasing are after sealing the exterior window frames and the door frames. Here are some related links on window leaks and the window contruction.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454/fixed-window-leak-problems-86517.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454/speaking-of-wing-windows-86615-2.html

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Access door leaks Captain Hank Doors & Locks 0 11-04-2011 10:38 AM
Water tank-weep holes-mystery leak(s). Gator113 Fresh Water Systems 9 09-21-2011 02:39 PM
Water leaks Hardworking Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants 3 08-05-2011 08:59 PM
Fresh water tanks leaks fixed! chiefneon Fresh Water Systems 1 07-31-2011 07:02 PM
HELP! kitchen window leaks Jcashcollect Windows & Screens 4 06-23-2011 10:41 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.