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02-03-2015, 11:55 AM
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#81
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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May I beg to differ?????
SikaFlex is not hard to use at all. I go thu 8-10 cases a season, twice a year. There are certain procedures that must be followed for the proper application of ANY sealant.
If you want something to last and be durable, you need something far stronger than waster-based sealant. Vulkem, being a polyurethane like SikaFlex, also requires proper preparation and cleaning techniques.
You will be far better off by practicing with a quality polyurethane sealant before going for the big time than using an inferior product simply because it's 'easier'.
Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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02-03-2015, 06:07 PM
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#82
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Full Time Adventurer
2007 27' International CCD FB
Nomadic
, USA
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,748
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I agree with Lewster, I only had a hard time because I didn't realize it was a polyurethane and was treating it like a water based caulk you'd apply to a window seal on your home.
It's not really that bad with some practice.
__________________
Family of 5 exploring the USA with a Ram Power Wagon & Airstream in tow.
OUR BLOG | INSTAGRAM
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02-03-2015, 07:11 PM
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#83
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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3M 5200 quick cure a great bonding & sealant. Used it on the replacement skylight, strong bond but stays pliable.
Regular 5200 for an even stronger bond. I have used it on both the boat & AS, 48hrs to tack, 5-7 days to cure. I can see it working great for panel replacement sealing.
Bob
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02-03-2015, 07:41 PM
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#84
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2 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Seabrook
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 31
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Awesome info on this thread! Thanks to all the contributors.
In the middle of restoration, will come in VERY handy.
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02-03-2015, 07:54 PM
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#85
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
3M 5200 quick cure a great bonding & sealant. Used it on the replacement skylight, strong bond but stays pliable.
Regular 5200 for an even stronger bond. I have used it on both the boat & AS, 48hrs to tack, 5-7 days to cure. I can see it working great for panel replacement sealing.
Bob
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I made the mistake of using Sikkaflex to install a new Maxxim skylight.
It developed a minor leak between the two domed sections and Maxxim kindly provided me with a replacement skylight - but now, I find I cannot get the old one off, it is stuck firmly in place!
Guess I should have used butyl tape or something
Luckily the condensation has evaporated in the hot Arizona sun, and not yet
re-appeared. Looks like the factory deal between the two domed layers failed I can see that the factory sealant between the flanges of the domed layers has bulged out of place.)
I have added caulking to all the areas around the skylight where I think water might be able find its way in between the domes! At least it never did leak into the trailer so it is mainly a cosmetic thing.
I suspect sooner or later it may leak again and although it is only cosmetic I will want to remove the defective skylight and install the new skylight assembly I was given.
At this point, unless anyone has any brainwaves, I think my only solution to remove the old skylight will be to carefully cut the welded aluminum skylight frame into small sections with a grinder and remove it piece by piece.
I may leave the flat horizontal portion of the frame that is stuck down the trailer's skylight curb in place.
I would clean up the cut edges of the aluminum, then just drop the new skylight on top of it - but I won't use Sikkaflex next time!
Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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02-04-2015, 01:09 AM
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#86
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer
I made the mistake of using Sikkaflex to install a new Maxxim skylight.
It developed a minor leak between the two domed sections and Maxxim kindly provided me with a replacement skylight - but now, I find I cannot get the old one off, it is stuck firmly in place!
Guess I should have used butyl tape or something
Luckily the condensation has evaporated in the hot Arizona sun, and not yet
re-appeared. Looks like the factory deal between the two domed layers failed I can see that the factory sealant between the flanges of the domed layers has bulged out of place.)
I have added caulking to all the areas around the skylight where I think water might be able find its way in between the domes! At least it never did leak into the trailer so it is mainly a cosmetic thing.
I suspect sooner or later it may leak again and although it is only cosmetic I will want to remove the defective skylight and install the new skylight assembly I was given.
At this point, unless anyone has any brainwaves, I think my only solution to remove the old skylight will be to carefully cut the welded aluminum skylight frame into small sections with a grinder and remove it piece by piece.
I may leave the flat horizontal portion of the frame that is stuck down the trailer's skylight curb in place.
I would clean up the cut edges of the aluminum, then just drop the new skylight on top of it - but I won't use Sikkaflex next time!
Brian.
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Bummer!
Moral: don't use SikaFlex on anything that you might want to remove at a later date........it doesn't come off unless cut, chiseled, scraped or sanded. There is NO SOLVENT once cured.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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02-04-2015, 07:12 AM
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#87
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Brian,
I have used a length of thin stainless wire to cut thru cured Sika 721 and Loctite PL. If you can get under the edge give it a try.
Worked well on the BT roof vent.
Bob
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02-06-2015, 07:28 PM
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#88
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3 Rivet Member
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
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What would one use on the inside of the exterior skin to seal the seams? Basically replacing the black tar like goo that's on all of the seams and rivets.
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02-06-2015, 08:54 PM
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#89
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Brian,
I have used a length of thin stainless wire to cut thru cured Sika 721 and Loctite PL. If you can get under the edge give it a try.
Worked well on the BT roof vent.
Bob
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I would think something like a wire saw would work ..... Like what they use to dehorn cows.
Here's just the first link I found, I'm sure there are other options
Dehorning Wire Saw - Disbudding - Kid Raising - Products
__________________
Shelly : TAC NH-6 | AIR 41359
Visit my blog!
Parts needed : Braund Antenna front tube fold down model!
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02-06-2015, 08:57 PM
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#90
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal283
What would one use on the inside of the exterior skin to seal the seams? Basically replacing the black tar like goo that's on all of the seams and rivets.
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I used Citrastrip to take off all the black glue and then used Trempro 635 to
"paint" all the seams I could reach.
__________________
Shelly : TAC NH-6 | AIR 41359
Visit my blog!
Parts needed : Braund Antenna front tube fold down model!
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02-07-2015, 08:53 AM
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#91
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Rivet Master
2009 23' FB Flying Cloud
Canmore
, Alberta
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,762
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(added 3M 5200 to roof sealants)
For wheel wells/underbody:
Vulkem 116
Trempro 635 Grey
Sikaflex 221 Black (use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant Grey
Roof:
Sikaflex 221 White (for roof seams, seals and bonds. Use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Sikaflex 715 (around fans, vents, skylights ... self-levelling)
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant White
Dicor self-levelling sealant
EternaBond® AlumiBond (alum. backed sealing tape, 2", 3", 4", and 6" wide)
Lexel™ Clear
3M 5200 (seals and bonds, comes in quick and slow cure varieties)
Windows/Trim/Rubrail/Exterior Lights:
Sikaflex 221 Grey (seals and bonds. Use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Parbond Grey or Clear (small hand tubes, prep and clean-up use cosmoline remover)
Trempro 635 Grey
Loctite® PL® S40 Polyurethane Window Door and Siding Sealant
Lexel™ Clear
Small seams (between aluminum panels):
Acryl-R (available in cans from Airstream store. Use applicator or disposable syringes to apply)
Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal
Rivet sealer:
Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
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03-21-2015, 05:19 PM
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#92
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 5
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I read the whole thread and firstly, thank you. This is immensely helpful. I'm new to the Airstream community and hugely impressed with y'all's attention to detail and OCD-like precision and thoughtfulness. Thank y'all!
To that end, I can't seem to decipher that if there's more than one product under each subheading, are they interchangeable? As in: could either one work just as well? Would be nice to make a process for each with some pictures with corresponding numbers so we know what solvents/tools/clean up we need for each and where, exactly, each one is used and why.
I'd be willing to help to that end!
Thanks so much! 😊
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03-21-2015, 08:08 PM
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#93
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Rivet Master
1998 30' Excella 1000
Livingston
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 546
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Mostly related to this thread, because I was getting ready to order some Captain Tolley's.
But I got up on the roof of my 17 year old rig, and with a cotton Q-Tip, deposited a puddle of water on every single rivet. Took me over 1/2 hr, but it was cold out, so the water did not evaporate. Went back and looked at them. Not a single one sucked in the water!
Do you think I have no leaks, or did the cold temperature "tighten" up the rivets?
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03-22-2015, 10:35 AM
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#94
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The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria
, British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siegmann
Mostly related to this thread, because I was getting ready to order some Captain Tolley's.
But I got up on the roof of my 17 year old rig, and with a cotton Q-Tip, deposited a puddle of water on every single rivet. Took me over 1/2 hr, but it was cold out, so the water did not evaporate. Went back and looked at them. Not a single one sucked in the water!
Do you think I have no leaks, or did the cold temperature "tighten" up the rivets?
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Siegmann, unless it was at or below the freezing point you could likely consider that you have no leaks on the roof. The consistency is about the same but it looks like skim milk when you put it down. It does dry clear.
When I used the captain tolleys I generally found that if any rivet did drink it up repeatedly, that rivet needed to be replaced.
If you can get your fingernail under the rivet head captain Tolley's will not solve the problem not matter how much you feed it, it just keeps disappearing into the trailer shell. I went over my rivets about four to six times at 20 min intervals on a warm day and if any still wanted a drink at that point I pulled and replaced. I used a fine modeling paintbrush so I was putting down less than your q-tip would each time.
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03-22-2015, 10:51 AM
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#95
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Rivet Master
1998 30' Excella 1000
Livingston
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 546
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Thanks. I'll hold off on the Tolley's, and won't bother to check the rivets for another year or so.
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03-22-2015, 11:40 AM
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#96
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4 Rivet Member
2003 31' Classic
Terra Alta
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 274
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This has to be one of the best threads, considering the issues that have been reported with leaks. Now, since this is my first dance, having just purchased my 03 classic last fall, I want to buy the products recommended for roof and windows etc and do the whole deal from rivets to lights and seams. Is there one good source for buying these items so I can avoid shipping on small orders. When I get the silver baby out of the hangar where it's stored in the next few days, I want to be ready...right down to the moisture meter. I will have to choose the products and order asap. I've spent all winter with you guys and have pent up longing to start. Thanks a bunch folks.
Dave
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03-24-2015, 08:35 AM
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#97
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 5
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Tin Tin: On your most recent list, you have multiple options per section.
Are they all comparable/interchangeable?
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04-12-2015, 03:20 PM
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#98
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3 Rivet Member
2004 28' Classic
Fresno
, California
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 150
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I read and reread this thread a number of times and finally started this weekend on my 95 Excella.
The PO had mostly Parbond along the rub rail and most other places. He did the job without masking, looked pretty bad. The preparation is the most time consuming. I used Sikaflex 221 gray.
What I learned from the first day was to remove the masking quickly, in my case about 10 minutes. Waited longer yesterday and the results were better today.
I still have more work but confidence is high and the project will continue.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
__________________
Doug & Lori
Fresno
2004 28' Classic
2007 Ram 2500
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04-14-2015, 05:27 PM
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#99
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3 Rivet Member
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
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Has anyone had any experience removing these sealants? What are the best methods for removing each of them?
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04-14-2015, 05:55 PM
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#100
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal283
Has anyone had any experience removing these sealants? What are the best methods for removing each of them?
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DON'T apply SikaFlex 221 to anything that you may eventually want to remove, without a replacement going in it's place. It is extremely tenacious and there is no known solvent.. mechanical removal is the only process that works.......and it ain't easy!!!!!
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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