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Old 09-11-2017, 05:25 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
2011 22' Sport
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Sealant for install of Fantastic Fan Ultra Breeze

(wasn't sure if I should pos under "Roof Vents, Skylights & Fans" or "Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants")

TL;DR is bolded


I have a 2011 Sport 22FB that has a single Fantastic Fan (full manual controls, bi-direction airflow) and am looking to install a vent fan cover so that we can actually use it more frequently. As you may have heard, it tends to be damp in the PacNW and being able to keep airflow/exhaust of moisture even when damp out would be beneficial.

With that, I bought an Ultra Breeze to install. I agree they aren't the prettiest thing, as they are rather bulky and protrude like a 2nd nose...but I do like the simplicity of the fully manual Fantastic Fan we have. I want to get this done before our wet season starts, as once it does it will be a long while to get enough dry days to complete the task.

So the sealant that is on the fan now is 7 years old. My question is about what is the best way to seal this vent fan install. It requires removing some of the sealant on 4 of the screws, install some flange brackets and the 4 screws. I assume the factory used Dacor self-leveling lap sealant, if it seems serviceable is it best to just scrape away what is necessary and apply new Dacor over the top (as everyone that I've found in video/blogs has done)?

The trailer is new to me, and I haven't gone up on the roof for a thorough inspection of existing sealant but from what I could tell from a ladder it seems fine. The only known leak is weeping on the front panoramic window and I'm pretty sure I can see exactly why that is happening, someone at a dealer didn't know how to apply caulking or didn't want to open a new tube after they ran short.

Or should I just just replace it with a Maxxair 7000k, will I end up there eventually anyway?
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:33 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xipper View Post
(wasn't sure if I should pos under "Roof Vents, Skylights & Fans" or "Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants")

TL;DR is bolded


I have a 2011 Sport 22FB that has a single Fantastic Fan (full manual controls, bi-direction airflow) and am looking to install a vent fan cover so that we can actually use it more frequently. As you may have heard, it tends to be damp in the PacNW and being able to keep airflow/exhaust of moisture even when damp out would be beneficial.

With that, I bought an Ultra Breeze to install. I agree they aren't the prettiest thing, as they are rather bulky and protrude like a 2nd nose...but I do like the simplicity of the fully manual Fantastic Fan we have. I want to get this done before our wet season starts, as once it does it will be a long while to get enough dry days to complete the task.

So the sealant that is on the fan now is 7 years old. My question is about what is the best way to seal this vent fan install. It requires removing some of the sealant on 4 of the screws, install some flange brackets and the 4 screws. I assume the factory used Dacor self-leveling lap sealant, if it seems serviceable is it best to just scrape away what is necessary and apply new Dacor over the top (as everyone that I've found in video/blogs has done)?

The trailer is new to me, and I haven't gone up on the roof for a thorough inspection of existing sealant but from what I could tell from a ladder it seems fine. The only known leak is weeping on the front panoramic window and I'm pretty sure I can see exactly why that is happening, someone at a dealer didn't know how to apply caulking or didn't want to open a new tube after they ran short.

Or should I just just replace it with a Maxxair 7000k, will I end up there eventually anyway?
My experience with Dicor self levleing sealant has not been good. It cracks in less than one year where exopsed to the elements.

Lewster (a professional installer) has made many informative posts. You might search for some of them.

This thread also has several suggestions regarding the different types of sealants one might use.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ry-116214.html

For your fan, I recommend a good polyurethane sealant like Sikaflex 221.
I've also had good results (lasts for years) with Lexel. (easy to find at most hardware stores)

add edit:
I've added those UltraBreeze covers to my Fantastic fans. It's really easy, takes 15 minutes. I'm happy with their function and look.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:59 PM   #3
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Polyurethane sealant like the sikaflex or trempro 635 or vulkem 116. A good added measure after giving it a week to cure go around the vent with 4" eternabond tape for an extra layer of protection, overlapping from rear then sides then front. You can get 10' lengths of eternabond on Amazon if you don't want a full roll.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:12 PM   #4
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I used Dicor self-leveling for a new install last summer. I was on my roof last month. It still looked great.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:35 AM   #5
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Ive had very good luck with Sikaflex
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:07 AM   #6
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Sikaflex may win out, as I already have a tube of 715 in white. I assume I should just scrape/remove all of the existing sealant on the FF and then reapply with Sikaflex 715? Just use a putty knife to level it or will it actually self level to an extent?
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:53 PM   #7
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I vote for 4" Eternabond Alumibond. I sticks like crazy as long as you clean the area properly.
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:31 PM   #8
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Sikaflex 715 is self leveling should be no need to smooth it out
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Old 09-15-2017, 11:36 AM   #9
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I washed and cleaned the Airstream yesterday in prep, and was able to get up on the roof to look at the current sealant. It appears that someone either replaced the fan, or just changed the sealant on it at some point. Perhaps this is Sikaflex (see photos)? Would I need to remove all existing Sikaflex in order to get the new stuff to bond, or will it bond to itself?

The wire/penetration is for the dealer installed Zamp solar panel.

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Old 09-15-2017, 03:25 PM   #10
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Ok. So the sealant there is peeling right off, easier than old bubble gum would be. So starting with zero sealant will be easy enough. 15-20 minutes to remove it all, much easier than I had expected.
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Old 09-15-2017, 06:44 PM   #11
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Task complete, it was far less work than I had expected and was likely good that I took it on as I think there may have been water seeping under parts of the old caulk. I don't think the seeping had progressed where it would leak inside, yet..but add freezing temperature with water present and it likely would have happened in time.

I was able to do most of the work from a ladder propped against the door frame/gutter with some towels. I found my "5-finger" shoes had plenty of grip for the few moments I was on the roof.

I think in total it may have been 1.5 hours, though yet included some other tasks mixed in.

Thanks for all of the input and wisdom here on the forums!
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:56 PM   #12
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Interesting about the "5-finger" shoes having plenty of traction on the roof. My son swears by them for his foot issues. Next time we work on 'our' Airstream I'm going to suggest he wear them in the interest of safety...and so he can do the roof work!!!
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Old 09-26-2017, 07:47 PM   #13
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sand lightly on the plastic fan base to ensure adhesion of sealant!

Today I removed just 1 year old trempro 635 that was didn't adhere properly to the fantastic fan base. Most of it literally pulled away from the plastic base without much scraping at all. The caulk adhered well to the aluminum roof but not the base! I prepared everything with varsol so I'm assuming that the plastic on the fan base is so smooth the trempro failed to adhere properly.

I plan to sand lightly the base (and edge) with some sandpaper to ensure the caulking sticks this time!
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Old 09-26-2017, 07:51 PM   #14
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picture of the sealant that didn't stick

anyone else had this problem?
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:51 PM   #15
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I'm using gutter sealant. It comes out crystal clear and stays that way for decades. It is not silicone. I say it's like liquid Eternabond....
Not self leveling but you can use an old credit card and make one swipe to make it smooth.
I prefer this stuff over everything else as it is a permanent solution compared to all the other popular sealants and caulks.
This is by far the best stuff I have ever used.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicNo13 View Post
I'm using gutter sealant. It comes out crystal clear and stays that way for decades. It is not silicone. I say it's like liquid Eternabond....
Not self leveling but you can use an old credit card and make one swipe to make it smooth.
I prefer this stuff over everything else as it is a permanent solution compared to all the other popular sealants and caulks.
This is by far the best stuff I have ever used.
Gutter sealant is a great idea. I'll have to keep that in mind. ParrBond is pretty close, from what I remember, but ParrBond will not work on wide gaps.
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Old 09-27-2017, 01:23 PM   #17
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Based on the massive sealant master thread, I don't know if Trempro 635 is adequate for this type of use as it seems to be recommended for "small gaps" like around window edges, trim, etc.

The consensus for the roof elements seems to be:

Roof:

Sikaflex 221 White (for roof seams, seals and bonds. Use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Sikaflex 715 (around fans, vents, skylights ... self-levelling)
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant White
Dicor self-levelling sealant
EternaBond® AlumiBond (alum. backed sealing tape, 2", 3", 4", and 6" wide)
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant White
Lexel™ Clear

In fact, the same thread seems to suggest that TremPro and Parbond are more similar and for the same applications:

Windows/Trim/Rubrail/Exterior Lights:

Sikaflex 221 Grey (seals and bonds. Use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Parbond Grey or Clear (small hand tubes, prep and clean-up use cosmoline remover)
Trempro 635 Grey
Loctite® PL® S40 Polyurethane Window Door and Siding Sealant
Lexel™ Clear
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Old 09-27-2017, 02:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrStream75 View Post
Today I removed just 1 year old trempro 635 that was didn't adhere properly to the fantastic fan base. Most of it literally pulled away from the plastic base without much scraping at all. The caulk adhered well to the aluminum roof but not the base! I prepared everything with varsol so I'm assuming that the plastic on the fan base is so smooth the trempro failed to adhere properly.

I plan to sand lightly the base (and edge) with some sandpaper to ensure the caulking sticks this time!
I'd suggest using 99% Isopropanol or similar to prep for sealant, or whatever the sealant tube says on it. Varsol (Various Solvents) can contain anything and isn't the best for sealant prep in my opinion. I rough my vent bases up with scothbrite much the same idea as your sandpaper plan.

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Old 09-28-2017, 07:45 AM   #19
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Excellent point William on the Varsol. Usiing "Various solvents" to prepare a surface for maximum adherence of sealants sounds risky. I'd like to use 99% Isopropanol alcohol as there are no harmful fumes although some people have said for certain sealants to not use alcohol for prep. I hadn't heard that trempro 635 is only best for small gaps although my recent experience suggests this is probably correct!

On another point about using cosmoline remover when working with parbond around trim and small gaps......I have yet to find a supplier for cosmoline remover in Canada? any ideas?
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