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Old 01-20-2012, 05:26 PM   #21
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Remember, that the shell lasts forever, and not much else.


An epitaph
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:14 PM   #22
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Need An Opinion on these

I was up on the roof today inspecting everything and applying silicon to the Fantastic Vent Fan Rubber Gaskets ( the lids were sticking to the gasket and wouldn't open). I put 303 on everything plastic and did a thorough check out of the roof. I don't think I have any leaks but wanted to get some feedback on the condition of the seals around my tank vent pipes. Here are the pics. They basically all look the same. I am sure they are the original from a 2007 Classic that was built in August of 2006. Thanks in advance

David
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:32 PM   #23
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Just do it....

Used this, still in good shape, 4th Season.

Bob
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:36 PM   #24
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Any time there is a gap or crack in the seal (of whatever type) there is a chance water is making it through. Why on earth the standard practice on RV's has been to use 3 inches wide of 1/2 inch deep goop to seal everything - I don't know.

Clean it up as good as you can and reseal it. For a nicer finish, you can use some self-leveling products... You can always just add more goo, but it just accelerates the next time it fails.
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKelleys View Post
I was up on the roof today inspecting everything and applying silicon to the Fantastic Vent Fan Rubber Gaskets ( the lids were sticking to the gasket and wouldn't open). I put 303 on everything plastic and did a thorough check out of the roof. I don't think I have any leaks but wanted to get some feedback on the condition of the seals around my tank vent pipes. Here are the pics. They basically all look the same. I am sure they are the original from a 2007 Classic that was built in August of 2006. Thanks in advance

David
Hi, David. That is what my vent looked like before I bought a new one and resealed it as shown in my picture above. The original vent housing was warped. Make sure that you buy the exact same brand so you don't have to drill new holes. When you have them off check the rubber seals; Mine was good, but other's said theirs was bad. Thinking that a vent would be standard, I bought one and found the mounting circle was smaller and the plastic was thinner. I had to go back and buy the right one.
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:17 PM   #26
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Careful of too-thin sealant beads where there is movement possible. There must be enough to flex with the movement, or it will soon crack.

(Not to change the subject, but that is the problem with curved pano windows. The flex happens with daily heat expansion/contraction and most probably severe shaking going down the road. That tiny bead cannot flex with it and separates from the metal or glass. A little rain, some negative relative pressure inside, and its like a straw in a soda drink.)

doug k
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:38 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Careful of too-thin sealant beads where there is movement possible. There must be enough to flex with the movement, or it will soon crack.

(Not to change the subject, but that is the problem with curved pano windows. The flex happens with daily heat expansion/contraction and most probably severe shaking going down the road. That tiny bead cannot flex with it and separates from the metal or glass. A little rain, some negative relative pressure inside, and its like a straw in a soda drink.)

doug k
Is there any good way to seal them? After seeing lots of failed products, I am trying GE Silicone II for the window. Can't be worse than the other 5 products that have failed...
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:33 AM   #28
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Friday,

Wow...that's a lot of werk. A different product tried almost every year since new.
We've had our share of leaks, but most, once repaired have stayed that way, with the notable exception of the trunk and storage compartment's. Detection and correction taking several attempts before a successful outcome. Same with the clearance lights.

If your trying Silicone, there is a variety that is especially made and is compatible with aluminum. Never tried it though.
Most Streamers will spasm at the utterance.

Good luck...

Bob
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:05 AM   #29
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I am using GE Silicone II that is aluminum compatible and also dries 'rain ready' in 3 hours. It applies nice and slick, dries to a pearl-type finish and looks reasonably good on visible areas. It supposed to 'last forever', stay flexible, and stay stuck.

Got my brand new floor done today... tomorrow will be putting the guts back in...

Yippee...
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:07 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
It's amazing, how many owners have never replaced the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, that are known to only last 2 to 3 years.

Lack of replacement leads to a partially rotted floor.

Andy
Thanks Andy for starting this thread...we have owned our 2006 Classic for a little over a year now, and I cruise the forum every day finding jewels like this one. The comment "known to only last 2 to 3 years" caused me to wonder what other routine maintenance should be done. Does anyone know of a checklist for maintenance that should be reviewed from time to time or on a yearly basis. This would have flown right under my radar....
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:59 AM   #31
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Thumbs up Maintenance inspections...

FG,

Leaks are at the top of my list....

Regular washing/inspection is still the best option, get up on the roof regularly.

This little "gizmo" has helped a lot.

Bob
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:41 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Gypsies View Post
Thanks Andy for starting this thread...we have owned our 2006 Classic for a little over a year now, and I cruise the forum every day finding jewels like this one. The comment "known to only last 2 to 3 years" caused me to wonder what other routine maintenance should be done. Does anyone know of a checklist for maintenance that should be reviewed from time to time or on a yearly basis. This would have flown right under my radar....
Water leaks, and resulting damages, of all types, probably cost Airstream owners more money, than anything else.

Collision excepted.

Periodic checks of all the exterior gaskets, and missing rivets, should be at the top of the list.

Andy
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Old 06-25-2012, 01:10 PM   #33
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Andy,

I'm looking to replace my roof vents as I'm not really thrilled with the 'open-top' design of the current vents. I have a 78 sovereign (by your place they're Part #: 83595). Are there any recommended alternative vent caps for my particular coach? Preferably one that has somewhat of a 'lid'?

cheers!
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:30 AM   #34
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Andy,

My sewer vent pipes leak due to cracking, what should I use to strip the old stuff off and what should I use to re-seal them?

please and thank you

Pat Phalen
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:19 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by GreyMattr View Post
Andy,

I'm looking to replace my roof vents as I'm not really thrilled with the 'open-top' design of the current vents. I have a 78 sovereign (by your place they're Part #: 83595). Are there any recommended alternative vent caps for my particular coach? Preferably one that has somewhat of a 'lid'?

cheers!
That vent cap does not cause any problems, but the gasket underneath that cover does.

The gasket only lasts 2 to 3 years, and must be replaced.

The newer installation uses a bug screen, so you must also use some Vulkem sealer.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:23 AM   #36
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Andy,

My sewer vent pipes leak due to cracking, what should I use to strip the old stuff off and what should I use to re-seal them?

please and thank you

Pat Phalen
The "old" stuff is probably Sikaflex.

Scraping it off, carefully, is probably the best way.

Use the same material to reseal the new vent covers.

Andy
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:56 PM   #37
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I am posting about my ugly bath vent here, hoping someone knows something about it. The screws and sealant are surely not original equipment (1964 model) but did this design *ever* keep water out? Should I attempt to make this watertight or just install a new thing with a vent cover? Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:32 AM   #38
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I am posting about my ugly bath vent here, hoping someone knows something about it. The screws and sealant are surely not original equipment (1964 model) but did this design *ever* keep water out? Should I attempt to make this watertight or just install a new thing with a vent cover? Thanks in advance.
Properly sealed, it did keep water out.

Adding the polished cover won't help other than making the roof look neater.

Andy
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:11 AM   #39
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Properly sealed, it did keep water out.

Adding the polished cover won't help other than making the roof look neater.

Andy
Thank you Andy. I was hoping for a magic cure but I guess I'll take it apart and put on a new gasket and seal it and hope for the best.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:08 PM   #40
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Mine were toast... and as a result, so was my floor, carpet... and my underfloor safe was full of water and rusted...


How bad were they?


Oh, and for fun, some moron had sealed the drain holes in the castings!!

So I went all out...
Cleaned up the roof...


Sealed the gap.. sorry about pics being out of focus.. forgot to push Macro!


Slid a tightly fitting piece of pondliner over the pipe...


Sealed that to the pipe.. then added another ring or collar to the pipe to shed water and protect from sunlight...


Modified my stack...
Polished...


Opened up the drain holes a touch, then made a curved cover to give additional shelter from sun and rain...

One done, one for reference!



Done...


No leaks so far!!
Even managed to unrust and restore the safe!


Now just the floor to replace..
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