Question on leaks

[Ifihadtime]

My trailer has 2 leaks (that I know of), I plan to take some time tomorrow to find them. My question is if these leaks are up near the roof line, do I need to remove the inner skin and replace the insulation or will it dry out and be ok. I think one of the leaks is where the awning attaches by the door and the other is at the roof antenna (which I plan on removing). There is also water in the floor insulation, with it being mostly a sealed environment how do you get that dry?

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Ifihadtime

My trailer has 2 leaks (that I know of), I plan to take some time tomorrow to find them. My question is if these leaks are up near the roof line, do I need to remove the inner skin and replace the insulation or will it dry out and be ok. I think one of the leaks is where the awning attaches by the door and the other is at the roof antenna (which I plan on removing). There is also water in the floor insulation, with it being mostly a sealed environment how do you get that dry?

Leaks are always not where you expect them. You see where the water was showing up, many times half away on the trailer. They panels overlap each other about 2 1/2in and are surfaced sealed between the overlap with a tar like sealant – not going to leak.

I know that the marker lights are bad leakers – seal the edge of the gasket where it meets the skin.

Check above the window where the window frame overlaps the skin cutout – many times it will separate away from the skin and water can get down between it and the flange.

A water hose on a non-rainy day and with someone inside and out is the best way to find these. You start at the bottom, holding it in a suspect spot for about 5 mins before moving on.

[Ifihadtime]

Thanks for the input on finding leaks. My question was on the insulation. The insulation in the belly appears to be wet past the area in the floor I removed. Will this dry out and not harm the remaining floor or do I need to keep removing the floor or belly pan to get it out of there?

[Colin H]

As long as the insulation doesn't sag within the walls, the insulation value should be the same once it dries. The bellypan insulation was originally stapled to the underside of the floor. When it gets wet, and vermin move in, it falls to the bottom of the bellypan. It's not doing much at that point, wet or dry.
We use a "Sealtech 430R" to find skin leaks. It is a large squirrel cage fan that sits on the floor inside the trailer. It has a large diameter flexible duct connecting it to one of the ceiling vents. It draws in large volumes of air into the trailer & exerts a small positive pressure inside the trailer. All windows & doors are closed during the test. We spray a soapy solution all over the exterior skin, including every rivet. As the testing goes on you check for bubbles forming around joints etc & mark for caulking after the trailer is washed off & dry. It's really amazing what you will find. The bottom line is, "they all leak" & anyone saying their's dosen't, is fooling themselves. The key is keeping a vigil for any signs of water & take action as soon as you see dampness. If you let it go, your floor will rot out, regardless of how new the trailer is. We are doing major floor replacement jobs everyday, which often include serious frame welding & fabrication.
Colin
colin@gsmvehicles.com
theVAP - The Vintage Airstream Podcast - Home

[Ifihadtime]

Collin; Great tip! I think I can rig up something like that. It might be a bit scary to see how many places have leaks. I was looking things over more carefully yesterday and I think the street side front lower panel has been replaced at one time. I noticed quite a few of the replacement rivits seemed loose. Looks like another project for later.