Penetrating sealant.

[chalcedon]

Hello!
Does anyone know of any type of extremely low viscosity penetrating sealant that i could use to seal some rivets after instalation?
Thank you?
Eric and Elizabeth.
Vancouver B.C.
Annabel the 67 Caravel.

[CanoeStream]

Are these rivets above the lower rubrail trim area (main body, not underbelly)? You don't have to seal underbelly rivets; it is necessary to have a certain amount of breathing down there. Olympics? It is usually advisable to put a dab of Sikaflex 221 on an Olympic as it is placed. The factory & RV techs use a much thinner product if they have to seal a skin lap after the fact -- it's called Acryl-R. There's some mention of it if you use the search function. I haven't used it so can't tell you anything firsthand -- or where to get it. Google I'd say. It might have some ability to wick into a clean, dry joint. We need more experience reports if you'd mind posting back if you go this way. Thanks!

[dwightdi]

Loctite has a wicking product much like their material they use to lock bolts. It sets up rigid so I do not know how it would do going down the road and flexing. There are some urethane glues such as Gorrilla glue that are moderately viscous and you may be able to push it abit under the heads. It swells as it sets up and is never real rigid so it might do the job.

[uwe]

Capt. (Captain) Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure Hairline Crack Sealer

However, it is best to seal the rivets during installation, with either Par Bond or Vulkem.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by uwe

Capt. (Captain) Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure Hairline Crack Sealer

However, it is best to seal the rivets during installation, with either Par Bond or Vulkem.

I used that stuff, it required several applications to seal the seam I was sealing.
I have had better luck with the Ruscoe crack sealer. It is thick, but flowable, and will flow into seam before setting up.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by overlander63

I used that stuff, it required several applications to seal the seam I was sealing.

That is correct, it says so in the instructions. It is of very low viscosity, flows into very small cracks.
Larger cracks must be treated several times.

[CanoeStream]

Eric & Elizabeth -- Exactly what type and where are these rivets? What led to their installation like this? How many are there? That will help give you a better answer without so much of a scattergun approach. Thanks!

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by uwe

That is correct, it says so in the instructions. It is of very low viscosity, flows into very small cracks.
Larger cracks must be treated several times.

I know. I just wasn't expecting to make 35 trips up and down the ladder to seal the seam.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Canoe stream

Are these rivets above the lower rubrail trim area (main body, not underbelly)? You don't have to seal underbelly rivets; it is necessary to have a certain amount of breathing down there. Olympics? It is usually advisable to put a dab of Sikaflex 221 on an Olympic as it is placed. The factory & RV techs use a much thinner product if they have to seal a skin lap after the fact -- it's called Acryl-R. There's some mention of it if you use the search function. I haven't used it so can't tell you anything firsthand -- or where to get it. Google I'd say. It might have some ability to wick into a clean, dry joint. We need more experience reports if you'd mind posting back if you go this way. Thanks!

Last time I checked, you could buy Acryl-R from the Airstream web site. Be sure that you order the applicator also and PRACTICE on some scraq before attempting to use it on your 'Stream. It takes a little getting used to but it is great stuff!

[CanoeStream]

Karma Lew! With that as motivation I easily found it (with applicator): Airstream :: Store

[chalcedon]

What happened is that we got ahead of ourselves and forgot to use parbond or vulkem on the bucket rivets while bucking them while replacing a couple of side panels, now i have a couple of small leaks here and there.
Thanks for the replies!!!
Eric..