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Old 02-11-2007, 12:30 AM   #1
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
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1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
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One of those nightmare days

Anyone want a partially restored Ambassador? Comes with an Internet radio show....

Today I was hoping to start on the fridge chimney. Mother nature had other ideas and has been sending downpours of rain the last three days with today being the worst.

I was meandering around the trailer scoping out the hole in the roof I need to make for the chimney collar when a drop of water hit my face. I was right under my new fantastic vent I installed. I pulled the trim peice off but cannot locate the minor but continuous drip.

Next I walked back to the rear and found the vanity counter top covered in water. I looked up and water was dripping from the top of the window frame. I driled out the aluminum window trim and water just poured out. So water is leaking in above the window frame somwhere. I can’t figure it out yet. The window has a rain gutter that I sealed the top long ago.

I ended up going out after dark in the rain and tied a tarp over the rear third of the trailer hoping that would help until I can figure it out. Later it really started coming down. So I went out with my flash light and when I opened the door there was about a foot puddle at the entrance ;-( So the front door is still leaking. You may remember I worked on that for days trying to get it to seal.

I looked around a found another small leak on a side window coming in the lower corner. And the last leak is a major one at the front which looks like its coming in from the original water hookup. I had pulled this loose and resealed it with vulkem but I guess it did not take. Or it may be leaking up higher like the rotor which I also resealed.

All this standing water is not good for my floating floor. So I’m not sure what the state of this will be after all this rain.

Just venting a little. I'll work through it. Just one of those downer days that comes with restoration
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1960 International Ambassador 28'
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Old 02-11-2007, 12:46 AM   #2
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Tim,
That is a big bummer. We haven't gotten dumped on here (yet). I'm at work until Mon AM so I can't check mine. Maybe that's best.
I hope you get the leaks all figured out. Sorry, man.
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Old 02-11-2007, 01:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Anyone want a partially restored Ambassador? Comes with an Internet radio show....

.

I ended up going out after dark in the rain and tied a tarp over the rear third of the trailer hoping that would help until I can figure it out. Later it really started coming down. So I went out with my flash light and when I opened the door there was about a foot puddle at the entrance ;-( So the front door is still leaking. You may remember I worked on that for days trying to get it to seal.

I looked around a found another small leak on a side window coming in the lower corner. And the last leak is a major one at the front which looks like its coming in from the original water hookup. I had pulled this loose and resealed it with vulkem but I guess it did not take. Or it may be leaking up higher like the rotor which I also resealed.

All this standing water is not good for my floating floor. So I’m not sure what the state of this will be after all this rain.

Just venting a little. I'll work through it. Just one of those downer days that comes with restoration
Tim.

Window, entrance door and access door leaks can usually be found using a simple test.

Take a fairly new dollar bill (no a ten is not better) , open the door or window, place the money so that the gasket will be in the center or so of the bill, then closed the door or window on the money.

When you tug on the bill, you should feel some firm resistance.

If not, you found at least that leak.

Front and rear winow leaks, many times come from leaky clearance lights.

Good luck with your tests.

Andy
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:48 AM   #4
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Good for fridges too!

I use that test all the time when checking the gaskets on a refer door. Works just the same, but I ALWAYS use a $100 when checking the doors on a Prevost . Impresses the client!!
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Old 02-11-2007, 06:24 AM   #5
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Tim,

I had water coming in the top of the rear window frame and landing on the vanity.

First I reset the window and eyebrow in butyl putty. Still leaked.

Next I drilled out all the rivets above the rear window, about two feet above the window. Used Sikaflex to seal the fay surfaces, then rivetted it all back together. Still leaked.

Using paper towels, I was able to find the water was leaking though one of the end segment seams, and running down the seam to the window frame. I taped the inside of the seam that was leaking, pressurized it with compressed air, and found the leak by spraying soapy water on the outside. (This was all done while the fiberglass end cap was out.)

The leak was in a segment seam, about a foot back from the main seam between the straight roof and the end segments. I sealed it from the outside using Parbond. Hasn't leaked since then.

I would run a bead of Parbond or Acryl down all the end seams. Clean them first with an electric toothbrush. Don't use your own.

Good luck. Love the VAP.
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Old 02-11-2007, 06:47 AM   #6
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I had a leak front and rear similar to yours, it also turned out to be segment seams, and have since been sealed.
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Old 02-11-2007, 09:41 AM   #7
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Uggg, I'm sorry to hear about your leaks. But, the bright side is, if you're anywhere as North as me, it's a beautiful day, today!

My trailer spent these last few rainy days away from me, so I'm just anxious to see how she held up!!
Good luck!
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Old 02-11-2007, 09:53 AM   #8
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
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1960 28' Ambassador
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What a difference a day makes

Thanks for the ideas everyone.

Don and Terry, I will parabond those seems from the outside asap. I was looking at the window brow on the outside wondering how is it possilble to be leaking. I was going to remove it an possibly the window frame to reseal, but I was doubtful that was it. I bet its the segments.

Andy, Lew, I tired the dollar bill test this morning(we're low budget here), and found the hinge side of the door the bill was in tight. The front part of the door from the top all the way to just past the door latch the dollar bill slides out quite easily.

So, I'm back to needing to reshape the door again. I've tried everything else suggested in a previous post. The only one I did not try was building a wooden jig the shape of the door w/ 2x6's and removing all the door skins. Then screwing the frame to the 2x6 and riveting the outside skin back on. (I'm reciting it here to make sure I understand it right).

As far as the original water spigot in the front, it will be history. I don't need it or the agrevation. I don't have the orginal tank to support it correctly anyway so I'll just pull it and put a patch over it....

Thanks for the encouragment. Pray for sunny days!
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1960 International Ambassador 28'
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:10 AM   #9
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I still haven't put in the new rubber gasket since I did this 3 months ago, not a drop!
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:09 PM   #10
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What seams are appropriate fro Acryl-R. And, how is the stuff used?

Tom
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:20 PM   #11
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Tim

Leaks are the bane of everything. Interesting, my '57 Safari car turned up a leak on the tailgate this weekend after I'd spent many hours I thought fixing it and testing and it seemed fine. I can't say I know how you feel, but I know how I feel about this. My cure is far easier than yours - I just need to actually break down and purchase new and correct rubber for mine. My wife will be in shock that elcheapo me actually bought some weatherstrip new.

Good luck with yours,

Barry
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:51 PM   #12
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1963 16' Bambi
1962 22' Safari
Yreka , California
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Tim,

Here is to hoping your woes will repair quickly! Besides you need to get that trailer finished so you can go camping!

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henw
What seams are appropriate fro Acryl-R. And, how is the stuff used?

Tom
Hey Tom,

All of your panel seams along with any narrow ones are fine for Acryl-R. The stuff actually wicks into the tight seams and never realy hardens, maintaining it's adhesive properties. It is VERY gooey and a real mess to clean, so I would suggest practicing first before you attack your new 'Stream.

You can try masking tape on either side of the seam, but I found that to just increase the mess. You just have to get into a 'Zone' and go very slowly with a super smooth hand. I like to have the nozzle at exactly 90* to the seam, unlike a standard caulking gun.

I use SikaFlex 221 for the larger sealing requirements, like above the door and window eyebrows, and for bedding new fans, awning rails and the like.

Have fun !!
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