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Old 06-02-2016, 10:29 AM   #41
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1996 30' Cutter Bus
Lawrenceville , New Jersey
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 30
bolts

Hi Randy,
I cut those bolts off using an angle grinder. A dremel would work too. Then I replaced them with bolts that were lower profile, which means almost any bolt other than what is in the picture. Then I only had to cut out a small piece of wood to get the wood to seat properly.
If I had just notched around the existing bolts, they would still be above floor level, and since I put down tile, it could have been a problem. If you are to put down carpeting or even a finished wood floor (which can also be ground out a little), you should have no problem just keeping the existing bolts and just notching out the wood. But you would need to have a really tight fit, meaning the wood would want to go under the bolt to support it since it is a structural bolt.
David
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:53 PM   #42
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David

By now you maybe wondering why a few Classic motorhome owners have been watching your work. It's because we appreciate all the effort and know-how that you have expended to get your coach up to snuff. If you ever decide to buy and restore a vintage Classic motorhome or Argosy I know the boys would be very happy to have you in the club.

That being said, although you don't own a Classic, I'd, and others, would like meet and shake your hand. It is not often that you run into a man of your talents.

Always watching and learning.
Cheers
Tony
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:28 PM   #43
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1996 30' Cutter Bus
Lawrenceville , New Jersey
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Final

Hi all,

Probably the final update.
First, I donít think I ever showed the final floor pieced together. Only the center is original. Itís now dry, insulated, sealed, and Ö done!
(Youíre looking forward. The seats on the left are just being stored.)



This is the electric panel on the upturned bed frame. This is Airstreamís placement: toward the top left and deep inside. When the bed is down, the only way to see anything is by getting on the floor. I moved the box toward the front, down, and to the right. Now itís reasonable to access when sitting.



I put tile on the bedroom ledge where it used to be carpet. The little ďLĒ on the right has become a little night table. It turned out to be incredibly useful, so now I realize I could/should have doubled the size.



The tile going in (Allure). I put a quarter inch of cork under the floor everywhere for added insulation and to even out the floor seams a bit (even though I did belt sand them all).



Not the best picture, but the bedroom is complete. Someday, I planned on replacing the fabric around all the windows. Not shown is the newly covered headboard just below the mirror. White leather. I mean vinyl. I mean pleather.



The floor in the hall. The wall to the right (to get back to RV design) is sort of a floating wall. During manufacture, they lay down the carpeting and then put in the walls on top of the carpet. Bizarre in my mind. The walls were then screwed in diagonally at the base. ďWereĒ screwed in, because every single screw had been sheared off from stress. I put in small blocks in the bathroom, screwed them to the floor, then screwed the walls to the blocks. Sorry, no picture.



New porcelain toilet. Same floor throughout. I had actually planned on putting a wood floor down, but when trying to remove the existing wood floor in the kitchen, I found it was glued to the subfloor. It would have been impossible to pull it off without destroying the subfloor. And if I did this, I probably would have had to pull out the base cabinets in the kitchen. No thanks. And I just didnít think that wood in the rest of the RV, different from the kitchen, would look very good. So I tiled everywhere.



New carpet in the cab.


Both captains chairs are in excellent condition. Leather.



Starting to look like a motorhome again.



The frame for the television was plastic, cracked beyond repair, and ugly. So I put this together.



Decent joints, I think.



The old and the new. I covered the hole with Masonite because the television was ancient, broken, and thus removed. And since I havenít watched television in more than five years, I had no reason to replace it.



Tile going in the living room.



The existing sofa was, of course, old, dirty, damaged, and I wasnít going to sit on it. The chair was the same. And no matter how much I thought about it, I just couldnít justify spending $1500-$2000 on an RV this old to replace them. So I came up with this little design. First time I ever designed anything on the computer, then built it. It was worth it. It saved lots of time measuring, re-measuring, figuring, changing my mind and rebuilding, etc. Itís not beautiful, but it works.



Hereís is the storage under the old sofa.



Hereís the storage under the new one. Thatís its biggest asset. Including the chair, itís about 3-4 times as much storage. That small ledge in the back corner of the cabinet is covering electric wires. Itís removable.



The chair just starting.



The sofaís skeleton. As I said before, I came from sailboats to RVs, so this design is much closer to what youíd find in a boat. In a boat, itís almost a sin to waste space. This wastes nothing.



The cushions were really hard to find and decide on. And I needed to find them before I designed the sofa. Getting them custom built would have cost as much as a new sofa and chair.
These are outdoor cushions from Ikea. Theyíre nice because the covers are removable and washable--unlike most RV sofas that I have seen. And theyíre standard cushionsóso are easily replaced.



As you may have seen, the center piece is removable. And unlike the original sofa which was only 68Ē, this is about 77Ē. Iím 75Ē (6í3Ē), and I can easily lay on this.



I really built this console just to make it all fit. But itís worked out really well. Thereís a cubby hole in the front and the back lifts off for storage. Again, this is not the best design, but for an old RV Ö Iím pleased. And itís still so much better than what was there.



And the console moves so you can do this. Actually, this now gives a really convenient table where there was none before. Before, no place to even put a cup of coffee.



My table. Home Sweet MotorHome.
(Can you tell my girlfriend was involved?)



And hereís the really big news:
Now that Iím done (or almost. Like a boat, I guess an RV is never really done), itís FOR SALE! Iíve put months a work into it and almost as much money as I paid for it. I bought it at the low end of book value, and Iím selling it at the high end of book value.
Many reasons. First, for anyone whose read through my posts, you know Iím new to the RV world and really disappointed in the lack of quality, design, materials and engineering. And if I ever decide on something like this again (Iím sure I will), Iíll be building my own. Sort of a cross between an RV and whatís called a ďtiny house on wheelsĒ, if any of you are familiar with that concept. I want something solid and realistically insulated. But all this aside, what has really nudged my decision to sell is that Ö
Ö I have a new job in Phoenix. And all in all, it just doesnít work out for me to take it with me. It would inconvenience everything. So itís for sale. Located in Lawrenceville, NJ.
It will be on Craigslist soon. Iíll post a link.
David
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Old 08-30-2016, 04:02 PM   #44
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1996 30' Cutter Bus
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for sale

Craigslist ad: http://cnj.craigslist.org/rvs/5756576601.html
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Old 08-30-2016, 04:15 PM   #45
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The photos look great! An earlier comment suggested also posting this in the Motorhome Cutter sub-forum, which seems like a good idea IMO:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313/

Best of luck on the sale and your move.

Peter

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Old 08-30-2016, 04:26 PM   #46
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David

Please tell me you at least used it once?

Seriously dude, you need to get an Argosy or Airstream Classic moho. Yes, there maybe work needed to the subfloor, but compared to the effort you put into this Cutter, a walk in the park for you, but significantly better return on your investment. There is actually a 360 turbo diesel for sale that needs some love. Only 25 ever made.

You in four pages have done more work than most people with 50+ pages.

Whatever you decide, don't go far away.

Thanks for confirming that there are still Americans, that with grit, determination and smarts, can accomplish anything they set their minds to. RESPECT!

Cheers
Tony
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Old 06-30-2017, 06:46 PM   #47
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1995 36' Land Yacht
Shawnigan Lake , British Columbia
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Hi David, I also have massive leaks, they seem to be just the same as yours,
Question, Why did you want to take out the drivers side window?????

Nensi,
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Old 11-03-2018, 01:17 PM   #48
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1996 30' Cutter Bus
Lawrenceville , New Jersey
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all pictures back in a pdf

Hi all,
This thread is a little old now, I know.
However, all the pictures disappeared because Dropbox decided to stop hosting pictures, and there was nothing I could do to replace them.
I did, however, save all the pages before they stopped hosting them; it's just taken me this long to finally upload what I saved.
So anyway, for anyone interested, attached is a pdf of the entire thread with all pictures.
I never sold the RV, by the way, despite what I said towards the end, and wound up living in it full time for two summers.
It's up for sale now in South Jersey.
Thanks,
David
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Massive Leaks and Destruction.pdf (6.53 MB, 17 views)
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Old 11-03-2018, 01:22 PM   #49
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1996 30' Cutter Bus
Lawrenceville , New Jersey
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Hi Nensi,
Of course I know this is very old now.
Anyway, I took out the windows because after I had removed the inner walls and all the insulation, the windows were then attached to the RV with nothing but the caulking. So by that time, there was nothing to do to remove them but break the seal of the caulk. Also, with all the movement with the work I was doing, it seemed probable that I had inadvertently broken the seal of the dried out caulk anyway, so it just made sense to remove them and begin anew.
Thanks,
David


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Originally Posted by nensihart View Post
Hi David, I also have massive leaks, they seem to be just the same as yours,
Question, Why did you want to take out the drivers side window?????

Nensi,
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Old 11-03-2018, 01:34 PM   #50
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1996 30' Cutter Bus
Lawrenceville , New Jersey
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Posts: 30
Sealing windows

Hi all,
One more thing I want to say--just something I stumbled upon.
I was thinking this past spring about window leaks and how people generally fix them.
1) remove the window and reseal entirely.
2) caulk around the edges of the window frame where you can get, possible, a bead of caulk about 1/16", if that. Not very permanent to me.
And so I started thinking about a different way, like why not tape?
Most tape will fall apart after a very short time in the sun. Some specialty tape can last maybe a year, but that's all.
But since I came from a boating background, something occurred to me. Boot stripe for boats. It's a tape usually placed at the waterline of a boat, but can also be used for striping anywhere on the hull, and it lasts for years.
So just as an experiment (there were no leaks), I put black boot stripe tape around the front window frames of my motorhome last spring, and up until a couple of weeks ago, it still seemed as good as new.
The black of the tape blended with the color of the window frames perfectly, and conformed to the curves nicely. You can put it on using many short pieces, and it all sticks perfectly.
One strange thing is that it actually doesn't seem very sticky when you put it on. But it is; it never moves and never came lose.
I did, of course, clean everything before I did it, cleaning it finally with denatured alcohol.
Maybe this can help someone else.
(Sorry, no pictures.)
Thanks,
David
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