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Old 03-29-2005, 02:44 PM   #1
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Leaks!

I've removed most of the furniture and now after every rain I see wet areas along the back rear and under 2 windows. My question is where shall I begin to stop the leaks before I put everything back! I've used Vulkum and Parabond but I must still have missed spots. Is it possible that the water is running in from around the ac shroud? I did not Vulkum that yet. Where do I look next? The seams look good and I'm not sure what the sore spots are for leaks.

How do you determine when the new floor can go in? Will I ever not see leaks? Lets hope the rain stops!
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Old 03-29-2005, 03:35 PM   #2
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Arrow put a tarp on it

Several other threads mention how leaks can travel for several feet before they appear on the inside. Cover the area you suspect may be the source of the problem then check after the next rain. If it still leaks, move the cover to the next adjacent suspect area. Apparently TV antennas, A/C shroud covers, Fan vents, and waste pipe vents are favorite areas for leaks to start.

Tin Lizzie
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Old 03-29-2005, 03:47 PM   #3
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It almost looks like the PO may have used regular silicone calk in some areas and I'm starting to think that needs to be removed and replaced with Parabond. Has anyone ever seen a shroud leak from where the fan is? or is that well designed for drainage?
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Old 03-29-2005, 04:52 PM   #4
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Are the leaks long the floor. It could be seam leak from the lower banding. I had a terrible leak there on my Trade Wind. Removed the banding and sealed with Parbond. This pic shows a gap in the banding where it was seeping in.

http://www.balrgn.com/Airstream/DSC02282.jpg

Good luck, with all the rain I just found new ones in my Argosy
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Old 03-29-2005, 04:58 PM   #5
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Thats a great idea. Do I need to remove the banding or can I just Parabond along the top of the band? In some areas, there seems to be space between the band and the shell. The PO did as little as possible it seems.
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Old 03-29-2005, 05:42 PM   #6
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If its an Armstrong A/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaetc
...Is it possible that the water is running in from around the ac shroud?...
Not necissarily (sp) the shroud, but the A/C itself. Here is my experience.

Tom
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Old 03-29-2005, 06:41 PM   #7
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaetc
Thats a great idea. Do I need to remove the banding or can I just Parabond along the top of the band? In some areas, there seems to be space between the band and the shell. The PO did as little as possible it seems.
I found it pretty easy to take the banding off a few feet at a time and seal it.
http://www.balrgn.com/Airstream/DSC02430.jpg
The water was literally pouring in on a rainy day!
You can check out my projetcts
http://www.balrgn.com/

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Old 03-30-2005, 07:28 AM   #8
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Banding - Sealing

Today the banding comes off and the sealer goes on! Finally sun and 60's in NY!
Yea!
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Old 03-30-2005, 10:03 AM   #9
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Shaving Rivets

I've read in some other posts about shaving rivits with success with a Dremel tool. Do I really need to buy a special tool or can I use a Dremel and get decent results?
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Old 03-30-2005, 10:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaetc
I've read in some other posts about shaving rivits with success with a Dremel tool. Do I really need to buy a special tool or can I use a Dremel and get decent results?
Which rivets you thinking of? The ones inside the banding you can use a 1/8" drill bit and drill out the center. John HD had a great illistration a while back on rivets. You should be able to find replacement 1/8 "Aluminum" rivets at an Auto parts store.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...8&page=3&pp=20
I used 3/16" replacements rivets, DO NOT USE Stainless steel ones there, they seem to take too much to snap off.
Good luck, keep us posted?
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Old 03-30-2005, 11:08 AM   #11
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I'm using replacement 1/8 "Aluminum" rivets. What do you suggest for inside work? the same rivets? Can I get good results shaving these with a Dremel?
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Old 03-30-2005, 11:55 AM   #12
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Some people on the forum report having good success using a Dremel to shave rivets, but some have reported less than acceptable results. Best bet is to buy a rivet shaver such as the one on the Airstream Dreams site, or you can maybe try the less expensive shaving tool located in the Airparts catalog. A couple of folks here have used it, and reported good luck with it.
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Old 03-30-2005, 12:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaetc
I'm using replacement 1/8 "Aluminum" rivets. What do you suggest for inside work? the same rivets? Can I get good results shaving these with a Dremel?
I used the same rivets on the inside when I re-installed all the bath room plastic. Sorry, I have no experience (yet) shaving rivets. But I would not tempt fate with a dremel....
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Old 03-30-2005, 02:04 PM   #14
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Rivets ?

On our MH, the rivets used to secure the "banding" and all of the interior trim rivets are the same 1/8" rivets available at the local hardware or automotive stores. A simple pop rivet tool can be purchsed at the same store.
Those rivets which hold the exterior panels on are the "aircraft" shaved style...just making sure we're all on the same page here.

I too had trouble with locating one leak in particular. The rubber grommet where the TV antenna came through the roof had dried out and shrunk away from the cable. Also had a leak along the "banding" exterior trim strip as described earlier in this post.
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Old 03-30-2005, 02:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulaFord
Several other threads mention how leaks can travel for several feet before they appear on the inside. Cover the area you suspect may be the source of the problem then check after the next rain. If it still leaks, move the cover to the next adjacent suspect area. Apparently TV antennas, A/C shroud covers, Fan vents, and waste pipe vents are favorite areas for leaks to start.

Tin Lizzie
Some of the best leaky spots on the trailer, that's for sure.
Be patient and you will find the culprit...
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:32 AM   #16
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Rain in NY

While we're still on this subject...I discovered a leak in the front of my 88 Excella a few days ago. After removing the couch and front carpet I discovered that the PO had replaced a section of the front flooring, the same spot that is wet again!


I pulled the wet insulation from under the section of floor I removed. Water is running down the interior skin in several places (I might have several leaks). This morning I put a tarp over the front end (it's going to rain hard in NY today) to keep more water from entering. I'm just trying to dry out.

Do I need to remove the interior skin? Will it dry out without removing it?
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Old 03-31-2005, 08:51 AM   #17
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I'm concerned with the same thing. Before I go ahead and put in new floors, carpet, etc. I want to make sure that the leaks are fixed. I would be curious to know how often people seal their trailers. I see this as an ongoing struggle that is just part of ownership. I plan on having a tube or two of each in my tool box!

I was not planning on removing the inner skin, so let me know what you were planning on doing also.
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Old 03-31-2005, 01:55 PM   #18
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Leak via rusted lamp Fixture?

This may be one of my problems. Has anyone a clue how to fix this? The lens is ok, but the socket is bad news.
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaetc
I'm concerned with the same thing. Before I go ahead and put in new floors, carpet, etc. I want to make sure that the leaks are fixed. I would be curious to know how often people seal their trailers. I see this as an ongoing struggle that is just part of ownership. I plan on having a tube or two of each in my tool box!

I was not planning on removing the inner skin, so let me know what you were planning on doing also.
Mediaetc,
The Vulkem and Parbond have a theoretical life span of approximately 20 years, I figure if I clean out the old caulk and do a complete reseal every 10-12 years I should be okay. I consider it part of preventive maintinence to check the caulk every year and renew what ever is suspect. My biggest issue is the owners that use silicone, why oh why do they sell that stuff

One of my biggest leaks was the plumbing vents, I would redo those ASAP with new gaskets and screens. Followed by resealing the windows frames, then the belt line and low "banding" by then you should have it under control. and then the fun of replacing window and door gaskets begins

Aaron
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaetc
This may be one of my problems. Has anyone a clue how to fix this? The lens is ok, but the socket is bad news.
Looks like a little creative reconstructive surgery. That is a good candidate for your leak path! Is that silicone around the other lens?
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