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Old 05-08-2017, 07:28 AM   #1
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2008 25' Safari FB SE
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Leaking at skylight area

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A couple days of steady rain and we discovered a leak in our (new to us) 2008 Safari. Didn't have a ladder with me to get a picture from outside. What do you recommend to fix this? Thank you.
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:31 AM   #2
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The best solution>>>>
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f455...hts-53517.html

It's what I did to both skylights on my Excella
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:33 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by a w warn View Post

^x2
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:08 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
The best solution>>>>
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f455...hts-53517.html

It's what I did to both skylights on my Excella
thanks for pointing me in the right direction. that's an amazing job, not sure if I can replicate that. any additional tips on how to apply all the sealant, afraid to make it look sloppy...
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:07 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
The best solution>>>>
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f455...hts-53517.html

It's what I did to both skylights on my Excella
X3 ...Maxim is the wat to go! We did Clear White Clear on both skylights to get the most light in the trailer no matter the angle of the sun. There are many choices of tints and frames and besides not leaking, they have great heat insulation characteristics! - Brad
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:00 PM   #6
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X3 ...Maxim is the wat to go! We did Clear White Clear on both skylights to get the most light in the trailer no matter the angle of the sun. There are many choices of tints and frames and besides not leaking, they have great heat insulation characteristics! - Brad
Thanks Brad. Do the skylights come in standard sizes?
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:08 AM   #7
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Read all the way through the link in post #2. Maxim is familiar with many AS dimensions, but not necessarily all of them. Call them and they will walk you through. See their website as well. some AS info there.
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:30 AM   #8
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Maxim certainly gets my vote - no comparison to the orignal flimsy skylights.

AS should really consider these for initial installation in my view.

Sure, they cost more, but if someone is willing to spend the $$$$ for a new AS, then a few more $ for a top of the line product in my view would not be a deal breaker - and would avoid some of the complaints of paying so much for such poor quality.
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:13 AM   #9
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thanks for pointing me in the right direction. that's an amazing job, not sure if I can replicate that. any additional tips on how to apply all the sealant, afraid to make it look sloppy...
The hard job is getting the old caulking off.

Installing the new sealant is a piece of cake, even if you've never done it before. The trick is to work quickly while the caulk is still wet.

1. Use a heat gun or hair drier to soften the old sealant. Scrape it away with a plastic putty knife. I use a file to keep the edge sharp. Some people have used plastic razor blades. I found a wire brush is helpful, but it is necessary to be extremely careful to not damage the metal. I scraped off what I could then used a rotary wire brush in a drill to get the last bits off. After removing the old sealant, clean the surfaces with mineral spirits. Alcohol will also clean it, but has some negative reactions to some types of caulking.
2. I always use masking tape around the perimeters of the areas where I install new caulk. If I don't I make a mess. I caulk, then tool quickly to remove any caulk that is on the tape (to create a feathered edge), then remove tape immediately. If I wait, even a few minutes, the caulk will start to get tacky and stringy when removing the tape. This is where it is necessary to move QUICKLY. Caulk the length you can do in less a minute, then tool, remove tape. Clean the tool. Repeat.
3. Reading older threads on this forum I thought it was best to use self leveling Dicor caulk to install anything on the roof since it does not require tooling to make it smooth. My experience has been that Dicor cracks when exposed to the elements. Self leveling caulk has less solids and more liquids, to make it flow. I have read several others have had this same experience. So, my advice in material is to not use Dicor.
4. Uncured caulk adheres anything the wind brings to it, so do it when there is less wind. And get out from under any tree that the birds will set in. I've had experience with bird poop in wet caulk

Installing the Maxim is really not a hard job. Don't be afraid to do it. Everyone is a beginner the first time.
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Old 05-09-2017, 01:44 PM   #10
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I had a leak in a skylight that was due to the seal strips under the frame being too short. The frame was sealed around the outside perimeter but water ran down the domed skylight and got in under the hold down frame and through the gaps.
If you are replacing the complete unit this would not be a problem. But chasing leaks may require a second look at how the unit is installed.
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:03 PM   #11
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My '99 had a skylight leak, and I resealed the screws and cracked plastic cover with clear silicone. Eventually you'll be buying Maxim skylights.
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:26 AM   #12
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I had two Maxims installed on our 2008 Classic 25FB even though the originals weren't leaking. Another benefit of the Maxims is better insulation compared to the OEM skylights.

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Old 05-10-2017, 08:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streaminwild View Post
My '99 had a skylight leak, and I resealed the screws and cracked plastic cover with clear silicone. Eventually you'll be buying Maxim skylights.
I had to do the same with my 2006. It was pretty obvious where the leaks were coming from once I got up and took a look. So, if you just want to stop the leaks, get some caulk. If you want to upgrade which is a pretty good idea then get your checkbook. OH, I didn't use silicone. This stuff is rather problematic and I have learned from experience to avoid this almost all of the time.
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