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Old 11-14-2016, 02:07 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
I was at the Airstream factory a few weeks ago and watched as they installed a shell/body onto the floor/frame. They have improved this issue. They are now installing a rubber seal and using sealant. Not sure what year this started. This is only an improvement, not a fix, since seals fail with time. It still is a maintenance issue to be concerned with, regardless of year model.
I would like to see a re-design that eliminates the storage box lid intersecting the outer skin. That is the only way to eliminate this problem.
wow.. hard to believe they haven't 100% redesigned by now, shame on them. I can understand my '72 having issues but recent models ???
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Old 11-15-2016, 01:59 PM   #42
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Same your insight, same disappointment at the AS 'fix'

Nick
The caulk looks pretty decent. You may have water getting in elsewhere. All around the perimeter of the window frames, and lights may need attention. Especially if old sealant around them. You'll want to scrape out as much old still as you can and apply some new sealant. Similar if you have a rear compartment access door. Also check that the seal on the compartment seal actually seats all the way around when closed. If you have a rear awning seal along the top of the awning rail to skin.
The real bumper leak fix requires more disassembly back there.
Don't forget sealant where the frame runs under the shell.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:26 PM   #43
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Same your insight, same disappointment at the AS 'fix'

Nick
The caulk looks pretty decent. You may have water getting in elsewhere. All around the perimeter of the window frames, and lights may need attention. Especially if old sealant around them. You'll want to scrape out as much old still as you can and apply some new sealant. Similar if you have a rear compartment access door. Also check that the seal on the compartment seal actually seats all the way around when closed. If you have a rear awning seal along the top of the awning rail to skin.
The real bumper leak fix requires more disassembly back there.
Don't forget sealant where the frame runs under the shell.
this one is gonna drive me crazy, there's a leak in the roof somewhere as water coming in on one side above kitchen window and the bedroom window. not coming through window frames as I've hosed down and no leak! So i cover the entire roof with a tarp in the winter. therefore rear end leak must be coming either coming in through rear compartment door which is drafty or maybe through tail lights ... or my caulking has failed ...

rear bumper requires more disassembly ? crap, thought I'd done that correctly ..
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Old 11-16-2016, 06:40 AM   #44
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picture from my '72 Sovereign, I just realized that despite a lot of effort to seal this, water is still finding it's way in. I removed the trim piece and caulked the entire area.
i'm going to experiment and tape over the entire bumper / storage locker area and then see if wet still after next rains. Where else could this come from in theory ? any seams higher up the rear end ? or maybe the tail- light fixtures ? mainly damp around in the corners ... grrrrrrr
Are your access door hinge lugs open to the inside?
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:12 AM   #45
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Can anyone comment as to whether this same water ingress problem can occur with a
2005 Classic 30?

Reason i ask is that I have noticed that for seem reason, the top (plastic?/fibreglass?) surface of the bumper on our trailer has a slight reverse slope so that rainwater collects and pools against the rub rail.

I have checked often inside the wide carpeted storage hatch just above the bumper and as far as I can tell it never gets wet in there - although I have never peeled the carpet back or used a moisture detector.

Nevertheless, I was thinking about caulking the joint between the bumper and the rub rail, however a fellow AS owner I met advised against it and said the design was such that water would not reach the wood and that there was no need.

I'm still wondering if that is so!

Brian.
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Old 11-16-2016, 02:57 PM   #46
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Just noticed there are several drain holes in the rear access doorframe.
These must drain right out onto the the wood ?? The door has a terrible fit! Water could easily collect there and then drain through those holes. Rotted area is to the right mainly though.


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Old 11-16-2016, 07:54 PM   #47
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Sure can and has on trailers less than 10yrs old. Some even under warrantee.

Perry


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Can anyone comment as to whether this same water ingress problem can occur with a
2005 Classic 30?

Reason i ask is that I have noticed that for seem reason, the top (plastic?/fibreglass?) surface of the bumper on our trailer has a slight reverse slope so that rainwater collects and pools against the rub rail.

I have checked often inside the wide carpeted storage hatch just above the bumper and as far as I can tell it never gets wet in there - although I have never peeled the carpet back or used a moisture detector.

Nevertheless, I was thinking about caulking the joint between the bumper and the rub rail, however a fellow AS owner I met advised against it and said the design was such that water would not reach the wood and that there was no need.

I'm still wondering if that is so!

Brian.
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Old 11-16-2016, 08:11 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Can anyone comment as to whether this same water ingress problem can occur with a
2005 Classic 30?

Reason i ask is that I have noticed that for seem reason, the top (plastic?/fibreglass?) surface of the bumper on our trailer has a slight reverse slope so that rainwater collects and pools against the rub rail.

I have checked often inside the wide carpeted storage hatch just above the bumper and as far as I can tell it never gets wet in there - although I have never peeled the carpet back or used a moisture detector.

Nevertheless, I was thinking about caulking the joint between the bumper and the rub rail, however a fellow AS owner I met advised against it and said the design was such that water would not reach the wood and that there was no need.

I'm still wondering if that is so!

Brian.
Not nearly as bad as the flat lid bumpers. Your glass center section as well as the plastic corners have a rolled lip which goes up about 3/4" up under the belt. Except for the joints between the corners and the center section, there is no path to the floor wood. As long as the top of the belt and the joints are sealed, the wood cannot get wet from the bumper.
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Old 11-17-2016, 03:10 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Can anyone comment as to whether this same water ingress problem can occur with a
2005 Classic 30?

Reason i ask is that I have noticed that for seem reason, the top (plastic?/fibreglass?) surface of the bumper on our trailer has a slight reverse slope so that rainwater collects and pools against the rub rail.

I have checked often inside the wide carpeted storage hatch just above the bumper and as far as I can tell it never gets wet in there - although I have never peeled the carpet back or used a moisture detector.

Nevertheless, I was thinking about caulking the joint between the bumper and the rub rail, however a fellow AS owner I met advised against it and said the design was such that water would not reach the wood and that there was no need.

I'm still wondering if that is so!

Brian.
It depends on how your trailer is constructed.
If it has the storage bin between the rear frame rails with the flip up lid, then your trailer could have this problem. (see photos in first posts)
If your trailer has the storage drawer that slides out, does not flip up, then your trailer does not have this problem. (but may have an entirely different problem)

My 34' Excella has the drawer with the fiberglass bumper cover that you described on your trailer. On my 34' the bumper cover slopes toward the trailer too. This makes water flow into the storage drawer so that rusting out the storage box is a problem, but water does not get onto the plywood floor. I've often wondered if it was this way when it came from the factory, or if the frame has been bent upward from dragging the rear end when entering up-sloped driveways.

If your trailer has the drawer, I advise you to look in the bottom of the drawer for a sheet of white fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) and look beneath it for moisture/rust. This plastic is held in place by adhesive which traps water and will cause the drawer bottom to rust through. I removed it from my storage drawer too late. Mine has a hole or two large enough to put my hand through. There are a few threads in this forum about this problem.
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Old 11-17-2016, 06:40 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Not nearly as bad as the flat lid bumpers. Your glass center section as well as the plastic corners have a rolled lip which goes up about 3/4" up under the belt. Except for the joints between the corners and the center section, there is no path to the floor wood. As long as the top of the belt and the joints are sealed, the wood cannot get wet from the bumper.
Thanks Rich - Now I understand, and I think that is what the fellow I met was trying to explain to me.

I have not seen any evidence of wet wood/carept in the large sorage compartment at the back of the trailer, but next time we have the trailer out, I will take a look at the sealing of the top of the belt and at the bumper corners anyway as a precaution.

Brian.
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Old 11-17-2016, 06:47 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
It depends on how your trailer is constructed.
If it has the storage bin between the rear frame rails with the flip up lid, then your trailer could have this problem. (see photos in first posts)
If your trailer has the storage drawer that slides out, does not flip up, then your trailer does not have this problem. (but may have an entirely different problem)

My 34' Excella has the drawer with the fiberglass bumper cover that you described on your trailer. On my 34' the bumper cover slopes toward the trailer too. This makes water flow into the storage drawer so that rusting out the storage box is a problem, but water does not get onto the plywood floor. I've often wondered if it was this way when it came from the factory, or if the frame has been bent upward from dragging the rear end when entering up-sloped driveways.

If your trailer has the drawer, I advise you to look in the bottom of the drawer for a sheet of white fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) and look beneath it for moisture/rust. This plastic is held in place by adhesive which traps water and will cause the drawer bottom to rust through. I removed it from my storage drawer too late. Mine has a hole or two large enough to put my hand through. There are a few threads in this forum about this problem.
Our trailer has a wide storage locker above the trailer (under the queen bed) and the door to this storage compartment drops down and is held by two flimsy cables.

In the bumper itself is a large pull out steel storage tray where I keep hoses, elec extension cord etc.

I assume this is the arrangement you say should not allow rain water to reach the wooden floor if it pools on top of the bumper?

As for the metal storage tray - it did come with some sort of mat on it. We bought the trailer used - 3 yrs old.

As soon as I lifted that mat I saw all the water underneath. I discarded the mat and also drilled a few more drain holes in teh floor of the metal tray and it has been fine ever since. I only put items in there that would not suffer from being wet anyway!

Looks to me as though the metal tray is maybe galvanized and it remains in good shape.

Thx ........... Brian.
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Old 11-17-2016, 06:50 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Thanks Rich - Now I understand, and I think that is what the fellow I met was trying to explain to me.

I have not seen any evidence of wet wood/carept in the large sorage compartment at the back of the trailer, but next time we have the trailer out, I will take a look at the sealing of the top of the belt and at the bumper corners anyway as a precaution.

Brian.
Brian, I have never had leaks at the bumper and lower belt (but I do watch the sealer there for deterioration) but I have chased leaks in the back for 5 years. It would show up sporadically at the ends of the trunk door. I had previously removed the carpet and replaced with foam garage flooring and installed water alarms. Sometime water would show up, sometimes not....with no rhyme nor reason. I had resealed EVERYTHING...sometimes twice. This summer I found a very small hole in the corner of the license plate pocket where, when it was vacuum molded, the plastic was very thin and has opened up sometime. I just put a bit of black RTV in the corner as an experiment....and walla...no more wetness for many months now. The water was running down to the trunk door frame and sometimes would show up on the right...sometimes on the left... and sometimes on both sides, depending how level the AS was. That variable confused me as well.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:33 PM   #53
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Update

This summer, 3+ years after re-installing the rub rail insert with adhesive, the insert came loose.
I used a 3M 2 sided tape, the type used for automotive trim, to re- install it again.

Still no leaks the floor remains dry . We had two days in a row of rain thanks to hurricane Irma. When I check the evening of the second day there was no moisture at all. I have not installed a floor covering, so it is easy to check.
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:27 AM   #54
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Rear storage leakage

Thanks for the info and photos. This gives me a better idea where to start. Maybe if the rain stops for a couple minutes Iíll take a better look at it. Or maybe Iíll wait until Iím in Florida in December where it might be a little warmer than here.
Again thanks.
Hans
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Old 07-16-2018, 12:29 PM   #55
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Update - 2018

My Safari sat outside in storage all winter in NC. Last week I took the Safari out for the first time this season and we went through a heavy thunderstorm while towing. I looked inside the rear storage area to see if there was any water standing on the plywood floor or stains from leaks over last winter. There was none!
The repair is still holding up, a few months shy of 5 years.
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:18 PM   #56
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Our 2004 28 Safari has a rear storage leak as well. We found it about 3 years ago. My husband worked on it putting in new plywood. The interior was fine as we removed carpet & put in new flooring. BUT yesterday, he decided to take a look again to see if it was still OK. Unfortunately, the other side is now wet. What do we do to really fix this problem properly & prevent any further leaks. So disappointing.
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:37 PM   #57
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Our 2004 28 Safari has a rear storage leak as well. We found it about 3 years ago. My husband worked on it putting in new plywood. The interior was fine as we removed carpet & put in new flooring. BUT yesterday, he decided to take a look again to see if it was still OK. Unfortunately, the other side is now wet. What do we do to really fix this problem properly & prevent any further leaks. So disappointing.
My leak was caused by failed caulking around the frame of the storage compartment. A tiny little pin hole is all it took. The plywood was ok so I just removed the carpet and put in the Prosource flooring from Amazon. One pack is all it took to cover the inside of the storage area. I originally thought the wood might be rotted in which case I was going to try to this ABATRON INC Liquidwood available on Amazon. But after drying the wood all was well. I un-riveted the metal in the back and pulled out the insulation and replaced it making sure it was all waterproof and dry before re-riveting the metal.

https://www.amazon.ca/ProSource-Exer...ource+flooring
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:31 PM   #58
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I've had the same problem with my 2014 27FB Classic. I took it to Foleys, and they pulled up the floor and caulked the rear bumper area in January; but when I took the trailer north on a long trip in May through heavy storms, I noticed that the back was all wet again. Not sure where/how they caulked it, but it seems I better do the job myself this time. So much for Airstream correcting the problem in 2012!
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Old 07-29-2018, 09:44 AM   #59
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Our 2004 28' Safari has rotted wood floor in back storage compartment on right side ony. We found this only when carpet became wet while driving south although we had always had a fowl odour inside tailer since we purchased from Canam. Bob removed carpet in bedroom while vacationing, removed everything from back storage compartment & black rotted floor. He repaired as best he could with limited tools; cut piece of pressure treated plywood to fit, caulked & hoped all was well. Unfortunately, now left side of floor rotted out. He physically got himself into the storage area with headlamp while our grandson squirted lots of water all over the back of our trailer. When he sprayed down low on road side water started oozing in. He could see water coming in from road side corner & running underneath the remaining plywood. He concentrated spraying onto the rub rail. We can't decide how to repair. First will try to call Canam here in Ontario & if of no help next Jackson Centre but it is a full days drive & worse American dollars for us Canadians. We are very disappointed to find this as we love our Airstream. Taking grandsons for a week in August so will have to live with it until we return.
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:04 PM   #60
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There are a ton of screws that hold that rub rail in place. They are all evident once you remove the inside metal. All it takes is a leak under the rub rail or from under the chrome insert in the rub rail and you have a point of entry for the water. I sealed them from the inside even if they weren't leaking, but it's easy to see all the places you might have an issue with once you open up the walls.
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