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Old 01-09-2007, 09:45 PM   #21
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Is God mad at me?

When you have tried everything else. Take it to your nearest RV shop. You will find overtime they will become one of your best friends!

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Old 01-10-2007, 09:40 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breakaway
The leak in my Excella was so far from the vent that I was convinced the issue could not be cause by a bad vent gasket. But I had calked everywhere and figured what did I have to loose. Replacing the gasket was easy and now the leak has stopped.
Some of my caulk work was a bit sloppy. I think I will redo some of my work this spring and use a “Caulking Syringe” to put a finer point on my work.
Using a syringe to install sealer, is not necessary.

No dealer that I know of uses them, and for that matter, neither does Airstream.

For large seams use Vulkem sealer. You cannot use that material in a syringe.

For small seams use Par-Bond. You can squeeze the tip down to any diameter you wish, and still do a very neat job. That's the same as using a syringe, without the hassle of transfering the Par-Bond, along with no cleanup.

The secret to making sealers do their job, is to install it on a "chemically clean" surface. If you have a seam that had "silicone sealer" installed on it, then that changes the whole ball game to something unpleasant.

Andy
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:29 AM   #23
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You might want to replace your black pipe vent gaskets . Notorious for leaking.
Replace every few years.
I also found one of my fantastic fan vents were warped, not contacting the seal. The vent lid would rest against tv antennae .Fantastic fan being the fantastic company they are, sent me a new
one for free!!
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:39 AM   #24
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Speak more loudly, Haym (I'm going to tease you) as the OP hasn't been here in about four years.

That aside, it's a good addition to the thread. Someone else will benefit as was your intention. (And I've dug up some oldies as well. Wish that others would also instead of re-inventing the wheel with the same questions every time).
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:00 PM   #25
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Impossible

If you have something that moves, it is practicably impossible to make a permanent seal, (without making it ugly) so be prepared to do these repairs over, and over, and over again.

On the metal units, you also have to deal with excessive expansion and shrinkable due to temperature. So as soon as your caulk begins to loose its elasticity, the joint opens up for moisture to enter.

RV ownership is a commitment to a continuing maintenance program by you (preferably) or by a qualified technician that takes pride in his work and knows you will be back for warranty if it is not right.

But it is the satisfaction of success and the joy of hitting the road that make RV ownership so wonderful.

Dave
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:59 PM   #26
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Is God mad at me?[QUOTE=frank n'shar;319555]

Yes, I think so. He/she gets very easily angered, as I've noticed from being somewhat observant and following the news. Seems to have no favorites, wreaks havoc on the lives of believers and heathens alike. You're lucky to have gotten off with only a leak in your travel trailer!
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:09 PM   #27
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Wonder what ever happened with his leaky trailer?
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:36 PM   #28
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For floor protection and repair, here's some useful information on penetrating epoxies.

Penetrating Epoxies and Epoxy Sealer - The Real Story! - Test Results
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:38 AM   #29
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MY heart goes out to you!! I also have a roof water leak. I'm trying to find it also. Like myself, You might have to go to cam-am rv to have leaks checked and repaired with the 430r seal-tech machine. If all else fails get it fixed by the professionals. They have the necessary equipment to diagnos these problems.
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:49 AM   #30
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Acryl-R Seam Sealer by Schnee-Moorehead, Inc, is another weapon you need in your leak battles. I think this is the stuff Airstream uses to seal seams.

I had a leak causing a wet floor at my curb side storage compartment, left side as you open the door. Like Becky said, soft plywood, ugh. So I ran my leak detector test. I rigged a garden hose with shower spray clamped to my step ladder and started squirting the compartment door. 30 minutes of water flow and no leak. Then I went 2 feet higher and repeated the test, no leak. Then I went to the bedroom window, sprayed for 30 minutes, still no leak. So I set up and sprayed above the bedroom window, but below the awning mount, no leak. Next spot I showered with water was the area above the awning and their she was. Water started coming in on the floor.

I used the Acryl-R and sealed the seams where the rear end cap sheets join the roof and side skins. I also sealed the vertical seams all the way down past the window. Acryl-R is a "thin" caulk that tends to run into the seam. The application tip is very small, and you can "squirt" it into the seam.

I won this small battle in the leak war. There are Airstreams that leak, and Airstreams that are gonna leak soon. It's part of the "fun" of owning one. Something to talk about on the caravan.

Add Acryl-R to your weapons stockpile. I got mine at the Airstream store.

David
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:38 AM   #31
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The awning fabric was removed from my trailer when I bought it, and after I removed the roller, I found 5 missing rivets. The open holes were hidden by the roller.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:53 PM   #32
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No excuse for missing rivets - hidden as well ...
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