Visit our Popular Forums

FullTimin2HI · 07-07-2011, 04:33 PM

It's rainy season again...

I have a leak that shows itself inside around my streetside rear bedroom window...

How do I go about finding the entry point on the outer skin?

I can get some Vulkem and fix this myself riii-iight?!

overlander63 · 07-07-2011, 04:39 PM

I've run into this with these, and it can be the Fantastic vent over the bed has a cracked base, the clearance lights are leaking around their bases, or the window itself (frame or gasket) is leaking. I'd start at the lowest point where you see water and work your way up. I'd also try aluminum colored Parrbond before breaking out the Vulkem.

Wingeezer · 07-07-2011, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FullTimin2HI

It's rainy season again...

I have a leak that shows itself inside around my streetside rear bedroom window...

How do I go about finding the entry point on the outer skin?

I can get some Vulkem and fix this myself riii-iight?!

I had a similar minor leak that revealed itself a rear curbside bedroom window. When I examined the caulking over the window, it didn't look 100% and so I re-did it. No problem since.

If that had not fixed it, I was wondering if it would be possible to rig something up to pressurize the trailer with an electric leaf blower and look for leaks with soap solution.

I know some RV repair shops have proper equipment for doing this, but wondered if just a simple leaf blower would move enough air - anyone tried it? I figured to seal up up the rear luggage bay with a piece of masonite and duct tape and blow the air in that way.

Brian

FullTimin2HI · 07-07-2011, 08:55 PM

Thanks Terry! I appreciate the heads up on the Parrbond, really looks like the right stuff for the job... I ordered a tube right away, now if I can just get a break in the rain to fix the roof!

Brian, after digging around here on the forum, I'm not sure that a blower would build sufficient pressure to successfully test for leaks... Checked out the seal above the window between showers as the sun was going down and imagine my surprise when I found the seal wasn't exactly 100% on my trailer either! Musta been the same tech who sealed our windows!

Thanks for the assistance gents, you guys are all aces!

Splitrock · 07-07-2011, 09:16 PM

When I got my trailer it had a leak by the entry door. By the time I was done I had found and fixed 11 separate leaks just in the area of the walk door. The hardest to find was an outside skin seam corner that looked fine to visual inspection. I had to remove the inside skin to find it.

My strategy was to do prolific trailer maintenance: sewer vents, new air conditioner, three new roof vents, remove television antenna, remove awning roller, seal missing rivet holes under awning roller, seal awning channel, seal seams, and replace window and door gaskets.

I sat in the trailer on a farmer's milking stool during a month of night thunderstorms with a poacher's light watching for leaks and mapping out the next day's activities, which consisted largely of fixing the leaks I found the night before.

I had no leaking over the winter and no leaking at all this summer.

neil.ervin · 07-08-2011, 10:37 AM

Trailer Roof caulking = vulkem replacement = sikaflex 721 White replacement = ????

Trailer sides caulking = Parbond replacement = Arcyl-R.

Order from Airstream.com

Steamy1 · 07-08-2011, 10:56 AM

Since this strings is leak related, I would like to enter my plea for help; I have a leak from the forward Fantastic Fan. I removed the interior trim piece, and noticed that the flange/base has a hairline crack that seems to originate from one of the forward screws. The dripping appears to come from this crack. I observed the exterior of the fan on top, and re-sealed the entire perimeter on the area between the fan and the metal, and went up the sides of the fan casing. Everything is completly sealed, and there is no crack on the fan cover. Yet, I still have the dripping when it rains.

Since the leak is at the high point, I do not think it is starting at someother location and migrating to the screw or the fan base.

Is my only option to completly remove the fan and start over? This seems like it would be a major project to remove all of the sealing caulking and pull it out.

I also sealed around the rivets that hold the cover to the base, and the antenna is on the otherside of the rib. I just cannot understand wheere the water is coming from. Maybe somone has experience with Fantastic Fans and knows of a potential source of water leaks.

Thanks for any help.

SilverCottage · 07-08-2011, 11:42 AM

As far as a DIY pressure tester system, does anyone have an idea if I reversed both Fantastic Fans if that would generate enough pressure to do a leak test?

I figure they move a lot of air since we here a whine when they are on until we open a window. Even opening the vent in the bathroom or shower stops the whine which tells me they are moving a fair bit of air.

Thoughts?

Gene · 07-08-2011, 12:47 PM

Steamy,

Our fan was sealed by a very sloppy person at the factory. Since then it has been resealed 2 or 3 times. I was the last one to do it and it finally stopped leaking. I did it on top and then inside too just to make sure. But, at some point, you have to clean it all off and start over. If you do so, you may have to replace the cracked piece.

But it could be coming from the skylight, a place where leaks are common because they have been in the past screwed down too tight, cracking the dome. The screws for that should have washers installed to distribute the pressure and seal better too.

Full',

It could be coming from all those places or some. Our pano windows have been leaky as have other places. For the time being we are leakless, but anticipate a return to leaking.

Gene

Steamy1 · 07-08-2011, 01:44 PM

Thanks Gene,

I looked at the skylight and could not see any cracks, but I'll go up again over the weekend at look again. Assuming the rain lets up.

I know water is insidious, but I just cannot find where it could be entering at.

We really like our AS, but I have to say that some of the examples of the lack of workmanship is frustrating. The saw dust and metal shavings that I clean out whenever I remove something (furnace, converter/charger, drawers, etc.) is remarkable, as is the overall fit-and-finish. It is an ongoing project to improve a product that should have been built-in at the factory. At lot of the issues are just plain carelessness and lack of pride during assembly. This leak may be another example of this.

Oh well, it gives me something to do.

Gene · 07-09-2011, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamy1

We really like our AS, but I have to say that some of the examples of the lack of workmanship is frustrating.

It is an ongoing project to improve a product that should have been built-in at the factory. At lot of the issues are just plain carelessness and lack of pride during assembly.

Yup.

Gene

ROBERT CROSS · 07-09-2011, 09:45 AM

We love tinges 'ta do, leeks especial....

FullTimin2HI · 07-13-2011, 05:48 PM

Glad that Parrbond sets up quick, not 5 minutes after I applied it, the sky opened up and gushed rain.... Believe it or not, no washout! ONLY 5 MINUTES!!! I am astonished. I was sure I was gonna have a nasty silvery mess running down the side of the tin can. Thanks again fellers!

captmatt · 07-21-2011, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverCottage

As far as a DIY pressure tester system, does anyone have an idea if I reversed both Fantastic Fans if that would generate enough pressure to do a leak test?

I figure they move a lot of air since we here a whine when they are on until we open a window. Even opening the vent in the bathroom or shower stops the whine which tells me they are moving a fair bit of air.

Thoughts?

I had a unique run in with a pressurization unit (commercial)... I needed to pick up my trailer from a service center on a Sunday... service bay closed, no techs or mechanics around... and the man at the service desk was able to open the bay and let me get the thing out (after I payed what I owed), but of course, it was NOT going to be that easy. I opened the trailer door to make sure I was road ready and found the pressurization machine on the floor, hooked to the FantasticFan by a giant air tight feed tube. the fan was very substantial! In other words, I know the Fantasticfans fans turned on "IN" mode will not help and a leaf blower, unless you are talking about a wheel driven "Billy Goat" I think you need to spend the $100 or so to get a pressure test done...

captmatt · 07-21-2011, 06:23 PM

Wow, I feel better... I guess. I'm chasing leaks in a 25 year old AS, that sucks but I see people doing the same in units just a few years old... WOW! Excuse my language but WTF? Is there a quality issue? Does Airstream read this stuff? Stuff that makes me think "Hmmm..."

Jim Clark · 07-21-2011, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverCottage

As far as a DIY pressure tester system, does anyone have an idea if I reversed both Fantastic Fans if that would generate enough pressure to do a leak test?

I figure they move a lot of air since we here a whine when they are on until we open a window. Even opening the vent in the bathroom or shower stops the whine which tells me they are moving a fair bit of air.

Thoughts?

I use a leaf blower into a modified hatch cover on my boat, soap and water, finds all the leaks above the waterline.

Jim

SilverCottage · 07-21-2011, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Clark

I use a leaf blower into a modified hatch cover on my boat, soap and water, finds all the leaks above the waterline.

Jim

Can we see pictures? I'd rather test my unit once per year without having to pay the dealer to do it.

Gene · 07-22-2011, 07:35 AM

I have this image in my mind of someone attaching a really powerful blower for a pressure test and the skylight, fans, A/C and windows blowing off the trailer.

Gene

soldiermedic · 07-22-2011, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Clark

I use a leaf blower into a modified hatch cover on my boat, soap and water, finds all the leaks above the waterline.

Jim

While I have heard many people try this method, the leaf blower as far too small to provide enough pressure inside the trailer for an extended period of time. The best way is to use a Seal Tech 430 R, which is what I use, and what most dealers use. It does find the leaks, and the fan is powerful enough that I have pressurized 34 footers without problem.

Steve

ROBERT CROSS · 07-22-2011, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

While I have heard many people try this method, the leaf blower as far too small to provide enough pressure inside the trailer for an extended period of time. The best way is to use a Seal Tech 430 R, which is what I use, and what most dealers use. It does find the leaks, and the fan is powerful enough that I have pressurized 34 footers without problem.

Steve

Steve,

Wouldn't the volume of air be the critical factor, seems 2-3 psi would be enough to find most leaks. Just wondering.

Bob