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01-29-2011, 03:17 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Stevensville
, Montana
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
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How much sealant do I need?
We have a 24ft Tradewind. I'm planning on resealing everything on the outside and was wondering about how many tubes of vulkem and parbond are needed to do this little job? Anyone done one recently and remember what it took? Thanks!
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01-29-2011, 03:52 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WadenMichell
We have a 24ft Tradewind. I'm planning on resealing everything on the outside and was wondering about how many tubes of vulkem and parbond are needed to do this little job? Anyone done one recently and remember what it took? Thanks!
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Depends how you use it, But two should get the job done. I like to place masking tape on either side of the seal and use my finger to force the "Vulkem" into the seam. Then pull the tape to remove the excess Vulkem for a nice clean seam.
I personally was not impressed with Parbond. It didn't stand the test of time and elements like I thought it should.
__________________
Lee
1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT
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01-29-2011, 04:06 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
Currently Looking...
McHenry County
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,171
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Just a quick note on clean-up.
You'll find no matter how careful you think you are, Vulkem sticks to everything, seems to find its way onto everything and doesn't wash out clothing.
Head down to the hardware store for some Xylene, disposable gloves and heavy duty paper towels. I've found the Xylene works the best for cleaning up the inevitable smears.
Tom.
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01-29-2011, 04:13 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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Vulkem 116 grey is stocked here at Home Depot and Lowes at a low shelf price. I didn't seal all the seams on my trailer so I don't have a usage estimate. I just applied a thin bead at the seam locations and wiped the excess with solvent on a cloth. I forgot to bring a cloth to the job and there's a rumor that I may have used a warm pair of Fruit Of The Looms.
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01-29-2011, 04:41 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford,
, Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
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I, like silverleeper, have found that taping either side of the seams and forcing the vulkem into the seams works best. Tip, run your finger along the seam in on direction and then go back the other way. That makes sure if completely fills any voids in the seam. One more tip, remove the tape immediately. As soon as you smooth the seam with your finger carefully pull off the tape. The edges will flow and be very smooth but if you let it skim over it leave a little edge the height of the tape. I like the blue masking tape.
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Bruce & Rachel
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68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
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01-29-2011, 05:53 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
Waters
, Michigan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 321
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Just wondering why you prefer the blue tape?
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01-29-2011, 06:21 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollerboy
Just wondering why you prefer the blue tape?
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It's not as sticky and pulls off cleanly.
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01-29-2011, 07:37 PM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
1989 29' Excella
1979 31' Sovereign
1999 25' Safari
Youngsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 345
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Vulcum 921
I buy vulcum 921 from HD Supply. I use the gray color its a great and is only about $3 a tube. Its a polyurethane sealer that stays plyable. I also use the "blue tape" to make a clean line. Just found a "green" painters tape at Home Depot that is less expensive than the "Blue" tape. I have to seal the seams on the panels and windows this spring as the old sealant is dried out and is cracked.
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01-30-2011, 07:55 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
chapin
, South Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 56
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IIRC Vulkem 116 has a texture to it and is best for large gaps.......the 921 is a smooth finish.......for clean up give WD-40 a try, Its less harmfull to the user but it still may cause cancer in calif........and why is painter tape the least sticky tape you can buy but is also the most $........you can store unused tubes and partially used tubes(plug end) in a fridge and they will last a long time.
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TAC# SC-2
AIR# 41283
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02-02-2011, 05:49 PM
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#10
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1 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Stevensville
, Montana
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
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2 tubes of Vulkem, rolls of blue tape, and some xylene and rags (not givin up the scivvies) and were set now if it'd just warm up here. Thanks for all the ideas!
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02-02-2011, 07:44 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1959 24' Tradewind
The Grass Capital of the World
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 174
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I used QUAD from Home Depot. $5/tube and I used two. I got three dental syringes for free from Safeway pharmacy folks. No tape necessary and no Xylene necessary. Cloth is useful for your fingers.
Good luck!
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02-04-2011, 05:35 AM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1964 24' Tradewind
Stillwater
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 83
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Can the newbie ask a dumb question? I would like to make sure the 64 TW I just bought has proper sealant. When you say you are re-sealing everything on the outside are you just talking about the seams?
Also, is this something you would do before polishing or after?
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02-04-2011, 09:03 AM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
1959 24' Tradewind
The Grass Capital of the World
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabasco
Can the newbie ask a dumb question? I would like to make sure the 64 TW I just bought has proper sealant. When you say you are re-sealing everything on the outside are you just talking about the seams?
Also, is this something you would do before polishing or after?
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I was a maniac and sealed everything I could see- seams, screw holes, windows, vents. If water has a way in, it will find it.
I sealed everything from the inside too, but with a different sealant. My trailer had lots of leaks and rot, mildew, and fungus damage from the leaks. Plus once the rains come in Oregon, you don't have many long dry spells to correct missed leaks.
Nothing worked for me as well as the dental syringes. Small invisible seams. I used clear 100% polyurethane sealant and it's doing the job. Vulkem is 100% polyurethane too.
Xylene, toluene, ethylene? and benzene WILL turn your cells malignant in all states. I don't think there are actually worse substances available. Thats what the hazardous cleanup initials BTEX stand for, and why they're usually locked up in cabinets. But they're certainly powerful solvents. To me, taping is just tedious.
I wish I could have polished first and then sealed as I'm fairly certain the hi-speed buffers are a hazard to polyurethane. I'll be sealing again after I polish this spring when the rains stop. Maybe by then I'll be done with the thousand other projects currently underway! Good luck with yours!
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02-05-2011, 08:55 PM
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#14
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1 Rivet Member
1961 24' Tradewind
Stevensville
, Montana
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
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By seal everything I mean all seams including panels, around vents, windows etc. basically any nook or cranny water could get in. We had to take absolutely everything out of our trailer and will be putting in new insulation, floor, cabinets paint etc. It had been neglected for many years and had several areas of rot, pealing paint and mouse infestation among other things. We sealed all seams from the inside and will be doing same from the outside. I would like to polish the old girl before sealing but would rather get it all sealed up so we can get interior finished and use it before the kids are grown. We'll probably just polish seams and seal and use it that way until it needs resealed and we have more time to polish the whole unit. One of the sites around here suggests doing it that way and it does sound reasonable. Your trailer may have had the TLC it deserved so may not need to be sealed everywhere, read somewhere not to worry about it unless there's an issue with leaking. For us there is an ISSUE, Hopefully not the case for you. Gotta love those Tradewinds!
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