How exactly do you seal exterior seams?

[Mike&Ali]

Last weekend I used Alcoa Gutter seal to seal the seams on my 64 Safari. I used masking tape to form a clean line, applied the sealant, and let it dry. I then used a utility knife to cut the sealant at the tape line. It was a major failure. The seams are so small in most areas that there was little sealant left. In other areas it came out completely with the removal of the tape.

So my question is....How do you seal the exterior seams (and make it look good). I have some Tempro but concerned that it will darken over time and really stand out. Most of my seams are OK, but I want to seal it up right (on the interior and exterior) so I get all my leaks. I've already gone over most of the interior seams with the tempro and hit all my windows with the Gutter seal.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Mike&Ali

Last weekend I used Alcoa Gutter seal to seal the seams on my 64 Safari. I used masking tape to form a clean line, applied the sealant, and let it dry. I then used a utility knife to cut the sealant at the tape line. It was a major failure. The seams are so small in most areas that there was little sealant left. In other areas it came out completely with the removal of the tape.

So my question is....How do you seal the exterior seams (and make it look good). I have some Tempro but concerned that it will darken over time and really stand out. Most of my seams are OK, but I want to seal it up right (on the interior and exterior) so I get all my leaks. I've already gone over most of the interior seams with the tempro and hit all my windows with the Gutter seal.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Par bond is usually used for small seams.

Hold the tube about 45 degrees from vertial and squeeze the tube at the same time your moving the tube along the seam.

Sort of like you apply tooth paste to a tooth brush.

For larger seams, Vulkem is normally used, but with a caulking gun.

Same process, 45 degrees and move the tube as you squeeze the trigger. Don't cut the tube tip any larger than you want the seams to be.

That's all there is to it. No masking tape needed.

You might perhaps practice on something before you approach the Airstream project.

Andy

[Melody Ranch]

I use Par Bond. It is silver, does not darken and flows into the seams nicely. Use it right from the tube and technique wise...I push the tube along the seam not pulling it. This leaves a nice 1/8 inch trail at the seam and nicely contoured because of the tube lip following the flow...ie. the push technique.

[SpaceEgg]

I feel your pain. I just sealed all the seams on my trailer for the first time ever and it took me quite a while. I figured out one slick system though, and here it is.

-Obtain a water syringe, the kind they give you after some form of oral surgery - I got mine for free at my local Safeway pharmacy (get a few)

-Cut the syringe opening at a slant not quite halfway down the shaft from the tip.

-Put your sealant into the plunger area. I used Quad 100% clear polyurethane from Home Depot ($5), it was very nice to work with. Stayed moist long enough to work with, then dried quickly.

-Apply to one full seam between panels, then go back with a wet finger and make microscopically sure the caulk touches both aluminum panels - One hole in your armor is the kiss of death. All water needs is a trickle.

I was surprised how small of a diameter of caulk you really need to seal the panels, and how little caulking I actually used when applying this method.

It works though. I live in Oregon (where all your rain hangs out until it's ready to find you) and had a maddening time with four phantom leaks this spring when I first got my trailer. Not anymore.

More importantly, I can't see the places where I used the dental syringe. I'd send you photos but I'm at work. Maybe later if you are interested.

Good luck. It's a slow, tedious process. But it's nice to be dry.

[wahoonc]

It might help to wipe the seams down with denatured alcohol prior to putting the Parbond on. I use a technique similar to what Melody Ranch described. It also needs to set up for 24-72 hours before you attempt to do much of anything with it. The main chemical carrier in it is Toluene.

Aaron

[Ken J]

I used the gutter seal using the same technique as Melody - tape thing sounds like way too much work. I'm going to try the alcohol next time - I know it works really well on wood.

Ken J.

[SpaceEgg]

I also cleaned the seams, but I used Goo Gone. I love that stuff. Citrus-based, not too bad for the environment, smells like oranges, and destroys anything adhesive. You must then clean the seams with soapy water. Overall process on one seam doesn't take much more than it takes for water to dry.

[Mike&Ali]

Great advice. Giving it another shot this weekend. I've got some Par Bond left so going to use that after I clean the seams - again. : )

Thanks for all the help!!!!!

[Mike&Ali]

Sealed all the exterior seams today. Used Par Bond and worked much better than my tape method. Would prefer cleaner lines, but looks better than I thought it would.

Now I just need some rain to test it properly.

[68 TWind]

Tape works well with vulkem (Tempro). You can make the seams very narrow or wider if needed by adjusting the masking tape. After applying the sealer smooth it down with your finger tip and push it into the seams. REMOVE the tape immediately after smoothing. If you let the vulkem skim over for just a little while it leaves a little ridge when you remove the tape. If you remove the tape immediately the vulkem will "self level" and the seam will be smooth. My TW was leaking like a sieve and I had big gaps in some seams and this worked much better than the gutter seal or parbond for me.