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Old 06-23-2016, 12:08 PM   #21
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Thanks Carl, I'll go for the 8 oz. CT!
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:06 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
I'm starting to do the fully monty on a 19(57) 13 panel and I have all of the interior skins off. We had a good rain here today: 17 leaks and counting. It seems like every seam has a wet spot or a drip. Can these things really be sealed up from the inside?
Yes, absolutely! Since you have all the interior skins off, it's a perfect opportunity to seal the seams & rivets from the inside. Once your restoration is complete, you will have missed this opportunity as you will likely never have the interior panels off again. We used Vulkem and since it's on the inside of the exterior panel - nobody will ever see it so you can spend less time doing it "neatly". I would (and we did) still re-seal the exterior seams too while you're at it.

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Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
I drilled the rivets out of every seam on the trailer, cleaned, injected sealant, and then re-installed the rivets. It was a lot of work but it doesn't leak anymore.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:13 AM   #23
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i found if you cut just a small bit off tip and dont squeeze the bottle you get a perfect amount of liquid coming out. The lower the liquid get in bottle the better.

If i had to do it again I would take top off and pour almost 1/2 to 3/4 of the liquid into another bottle first.. it make the process easier to control.

be sure to have a couple paper towels or cloth towels to catch excess.. no big deal it dries clean.

use it like a caulking gun,, ie 45 angle to the crack and just run it down the seam especially around windows. try to run bottle along the side of trailer not 90* to it.. make it easier to control flow and you can see..

I have a 10.5 extendable ladder that is the bomb on this type project. I just lean it up on side of trailer and work.. ( I weigh 195 lbs) or put against the awning covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great for getting on roof as well.. I used it to replace 2 skylight and redo the rail caulk on top between white and non white metal.

you will be suprized to see how that stuff suck into the gaps..



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Originally Posted by asv2 View Post
Thanks Carl, I'll go for the 8 oz. CT!
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Old 06-26-2016, 07:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
i found if you cut just a small bit off tip and dont squeeze the bottle you get a perfect amount of liquid coming out. The lower the liquid get in bottle the better.

If i had to do it again I would take top off and pour almost 1/2 to 3/4 of the liquid into another bottle first.. it make the process easier to control.

be sure to have a couple paper towels or cloth towels to catch excess.. no big deal it dries clean.

use it like a caulking gun,, ie 45 angle to the crack and just run it down the seam especially around windows. try to run bottle along the side of trailer not 90* to it.. make it easier to control flow and you can see..

I have a 10.5 extendable ladder that is the bomb on this type project. I just lean it up on side of trailer and work.. ( I weigh 195 lbs) or put against the awning covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great for getting on roof as well.. I used it to replace 2 skylight and redo the rail caulk on top between white and non white metal.

you will be suprized to see how that stuff suck into the gaps..
Thanks for all the great tips! They'll really help cut down on the trial and error part! I'm thinking of getting the 8 ounce and a 2 ounce of the CT to be sure and have enough, and 2 tubes of sealant, probably Sikaflex 221. We used Sikaflex 715 for installing a new Maxim skylight, and it's worked well so far. Does the CT have an expiration date like sealants do?
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:31 PM   #25
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Just my 2 cents. I used about 3 oz. of CT to treat all rivets on our 29' Ambassador. I used Acryl-R for panel seams and some window edges. Good luck on your sealing adventure.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:20 PM   #26
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Which Sikaflex?

Thanks Dennis,

I'll drop the extra 2 oz. of CT from the supply list! Glad you mentioned Acryl-R - I considered it previously, so I read up on it more and will add to the arsenal.

My rough plan is to use Sikaflex 715 for anything on the roof (vents, etc.) & 221 for the remainder (non roof) where there are larger gaps, but I'm wondering if Sikaflex 505 UV (I read it replaced Sikaflex 721 UV) would be better than 221 since 505UV is "highly weather resistant and has excellent UV resistance" according to the Sika website.
On one hand 221 is a non-SAG polyurethane sealant and cures to form a durable elastomer that is "resistant" to aging and weather and "elastic" whereas 505UV is an STP (silane terminated polymer) which has a faster cure (I took highlights of the description from Sika website.) I have a feeling the faster cure 505 UV might be better against the weather (lots of sun in North FL) but may not have as much flex as the 221, so maybe it's a trade off as to which is best. I'd love to hear if anyone has used these and how they have held up.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:31 PM   #27
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One thought on the Acryl-R: it takes a few days to really "skin over" so it isn't sticky to the touch or transfers to skin or clothes. It also shrinks quite a bit so a 3/16" bead will be much thinner when dry or cured.

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Old 06-28-2016, 10:54 AM   #28
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The sikaflex 221 dries pretty quick, overnight for a really good set.
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Old 06-30-2016, 08:47 PM   #29
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Thank y'all, I appreciate all your tips. I decided to go with the Sikaflex 221 along with the CT and Acryl-R. Now to order everything and get started!
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:28 AM   #30
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Any help here for a newbie?

Just a quick question: I have a couple roof leaks that need addressing. Should I seal the inside skin too? Sounds like everyone here says sealing the inside is SOP.

Im afraid that if the inside skin is water tight, Ill never know when the outside skin leaks. Im concerned I could be taking on water for years before I ever see any evidence. As it is now, Im wondering how far the water traveled between the skins before it finally found its way inside.
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:01 PM   #31
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The inside skin we are referring to are the interior exterior skins.
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Old 07-08-2016, 04:32 PM   #32
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Ah! Thanks.

I'm new here, and haven't learned all the lingo yet. Pertinent details still get past me. With that knowledge, rereading the thread, it's clear now. So I'm on my way to HD to pick up some Sikaflex for the exterior of the exterior roof

Fortunately my rig was kept in covered storage when not on the road. When the A/C was replaced a couple years ago the new unit has a slightly smaller foot print. There's a gap on the seam where it runs under the A/C unit that is now uncovered.
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:13 PM   #33
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Make sure you get the correct sikaflex. You need 221 sikaflex for just about everything. I used 715 sikaflex on the roof- it's semi self leveling. I believe the sikaflex at HD is for concrete. You can order the right stuff online😄 Make sure you get some painters tape to go around where you need it. This stuff is not that forgiving. Also get some minerial spirits for clean up.
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