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09-12-2017, 08:08 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1988 29' Excella
Newnan
, Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 23
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Stationary Window Leak
I have searched and I guess I'm not using the correct terms. During Irma I went out and checked for leaks in our AS. I have been replacing some sub floor and thought I had found all the leaks in the areas of damaged sub flooring.
I found the fixed window on the right of the door leaking. Turns out after removing all the inside panels again that the caulk seal between the glass and frame have come loose. The glass is not in a complete frame just the outside face of glass is caulked to the frame. The edge of the glass all the way around was damp with the bottom portion allowing water to run in.
My question is what is a proven way to remove the glass from the frame so I can install new material to secure the glass with no leaks? I will remove the old caulk from the frame of course. I don't want to break the glass.
Thanks Bob
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09-12-2017, 08:35 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Pics of the mounting methodology would help. From your description, I think the mounting is like my front curved pano windows. If so, I do have successful experience with that repair.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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09-12-2017, 09:03 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1988 29' Excella
Newnan
, Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 23
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Stationary Window Leak
The design looks the same as the Panos.
This shows the good corner. You can see the caulk squishing out from the back. An angled Xacto chisel blade would be nice to have. The caulk looks like the grey material that AS used on all the interior sealing.
Thanks Bob
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09-12-2017, 09:08 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpm750
Attachment 294672
The design looks the same as the Panos.
This shows the good corner. You can see the caulk squishing out from the back. An angled Xacto chisel blade would be nice to have. The caulk looks like the grey material that AS used on all the interior sealing.
Thanks Bob
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The grey stuff is Vulkem. It is a polyurethane caulk. The consensus is don't use silicone. Vulkem may not be out there anymore but Tempro has a replacement.
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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09-12-2017, 09:12 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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OK, it appears to be a little different than mine, but since yours is a pretty old trailer, it is probably best to remove and replace all the sealer. ( I was able to repair a small corner area in mine). If I see the pic correctly, I would try and dig out a half inch or so, from the inside and outside) and work a thin piano wire from inside to outside. Then, with a helper, work the wire back and forth, "sawing" the sealer around the perimeter. Clean VERY well and reseal with Sikaflex 221 UV. (IIRC, I'm not home right now to check the Sika number)
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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09-12-2017, 09:17 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Oh, and when you set the window glass into the new sealer, You should devise some way to apply and hold a bit of pressure on the glass. I don't think just taping it in place will adequately hold it until the sealer cures.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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09-18-2017, 06:06 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1988 29' Excella
Newnan
, Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 23
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Okay I got the window out without breaking it. And I've dug most of the old caulk out. There is a groove all the way around as well. This makes this hard caulk very hard to get out. Before I caulk it back in a away to hold it in place so it has an even seal on the outside lip.
What caulk material would work best? I have Trempro 635, will this work for the long term? I want to do this right.
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09-18-2017, 06:13 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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[emoji106] that what I used and is suggested. Rock on bro!
__________________
Matt
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09-24-2017, 08:59 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1988 29' Excella
Newnan
, Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 23
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I came up with a support system. This held the window in place while the caulk dried.
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09-24-2017, 10:04 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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You sure this was not a double pane window that the inner pane was removed and the outer pane was just caulked back in? My 81 has that same window by the door and it leaks between the panes. I had a leak at the frame gap at the bottom and cured that with caulk and removed the gray plastic gasket and replaced it with Trempro 635 which has not held up well. It should have been held in my a gasket not caulk if it was factory.
Perry
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09-24-2017, 07:51 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1988 29' Excella
Newnan
, Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 23
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Not a double pain. There are two smaller windows that are constructed the same. There was not as much original caulk on this one as the others. The Trempro should be good for a few years.
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