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Old 04-08-2017, 06:16 PM   #61
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I may have had some success locating the source of the leak.

I decided to take the nozzle off the hose and use a narrow band of water to pin point areas that might show up the leak. The last test was spraying the top of the back but water came down both sides.

Concentrated on the street side. First I duct taped the hose end to the roof ran the water down the rivet seam from the rear roof vent down to the street awning rails. Let it run for about 1/2 hour. No leak detected at the rear window.
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Old 04-08-2017, 06:18 PM   #62
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Then moved hose so the water runs down the street side rear quarter. This time I started to get a drip at the rear window about 8" from the street side frame.
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Old 04-08-2017, 06:21 PM   #63
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Running the water as shown before reproduced the leak pretty quickly. To isolate the rivet line of the panel I duct taped it and ran the water again. The leak was reproduced.
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Old 04-08-2017, 06:26 PM   #64
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Next tape off the suspected area of the leak and run the water again. This time the leak was not reproduced.

The result is the top frame of the street rear curved window either has bad caulking or rivets.

I've got some Capt Tolly's I'll try on the rivets, worse case some aluminum colored Parbond. I'll reseal the top edge with Tempro. For a long term fix I may have to get the rivets replaced. Hopefully, I can finish tomorrow let it all set and put the sprayer on the rear end. Crossing my fingers.
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Old 04-08-2017, 07:50 PM   #65
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Glad to see you made progress tracking down your leak.--Frank
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:42 AM   #66
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I don't think you'll have to pull the window. Start with Tolleys on the rivets and see if any drink it. If you have to reseal the frame, tape off and carefully dig out the top sealer as deep as possible. The work the new sealer in deep with your finger. Not sure if I'd use parbond, polyurethane or adseal. What's there now? BTW, congrats on using strategy based diagnostics well..
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Old 04-09-2017, 01:47 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
( snip ) Crossing my fingers.
We'll keep our fingers crossed too... with you and for you. Maybe this time is the charm.

R
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Old 04-09-2017, 03:22 PM   #68
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Curb side corner window is resealed. Did a double seal on the top. Clean out the old seal, took a tool with with a metal hook and picked out the sealant. Taped it up and did a first pass. Waited a couple of hours and taped up again an put the second layer of Trempro on it.

Clean up the bottom and used Parbond. There is not much space between the window edge and and the belt line rub rail and Parbond has a narrow nozzle.

Then applied Capt Tolley's to all the rivets.

I'm going to let it set for 24 hours. Supposed to get some rain tomorrow. I'll put the hose on it by spraying the top and let water run down both sides too to make sure. Keeping fingers crossed.

Kelvin

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Old 04-11-2017, 05:44 AM   #69
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It didn't rain yesterday so after work I applied the water test, spraying water up onto the rear vent. The hose spray range isn't far and the wind was blowing so most of the water fell on the curb corner window. Went inside, with a beer, and waited. About 10 minutes a drip! Darn, drink more beer and then reevaluated.

I checked the side seam again. There is one spot where the top panel has a bulge to the lower panel. Maybe the Acryl has failed inside the seam. Didn't notice this before.
I taped up the whole side panel seam and ran the test again. After about 15 minutes it wasn't leaking. Maybe the Acyrl-R has failed, water wicks in between the plans and travels dow to behind the window frame then runs out to drip on the bug screen. Kinda like when you reach up to touch something that is wet and water runs down your arm. The water tension makes water take funny paths.

I have a new bottle of Acryl-R with the applicator. The expiry date is 6/2016 but I cracked open the seal and it was kinda thick. Put the applicator in and after pumping more than I expected it came out the nozzle. The youTube videos showed the techs running Acryl make it look easy but I made a mess. Should've taped it. It seemed to set way too fast. I'm going to have to wait for it to dry and find something better than mineral spirits.

When sealing the window frame on Sunday a nearby tree was shedding whirly-bird seeds an all sorts of dust and other stuff got on the Trempro. May have to redo that seal on a calm day and then tape over it to protect it while it sets.

Kelvin
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:07 AM   #70
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So both times you stopped the leak with the tape it looks like you covered the seam junction. Maybe leave the tape, start the water and then start tearing off 1-2" sections of the tape from the top checking to see when it starts dripping.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:24 AM   #71
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That's a good idea.

I've already sealed the seam with Acryl, looks messy, but I think I got enough in the the seam and the seam bulge. I resealed the whole seam. I'll test it out again after work today.

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Old 04-12-2017, 09:22 AM   #72
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Purchased some Xylene to remove the excess Acryl and tried to thin it out in the can/dispenser. Taped up the seam and tried to work fast. Still can't run a bead, must be still too thick and I'm working on a seem that is hanging straight down. Smoothed out 6" at a time with my gloved finger and then pulled the tape. The seam looks good. I decided to wait until today after work to run the water. Found a small leak in the street corner window pain at the bottom where water is coming around the glass seal. Used some clear bathtub seal in there.

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Old 04-13-2017, 05:43 AM   #73
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This Leak is Kicking my Butt

Jeez, after running new Acryl down the roof panel seam above the street rear curved and Capt Tolley to death the rivets on that seam I'm still getting a leak.

Got home from work, hooked up the hose and let the water fall onto the rear street corner of the trailer. Went inside and within a couple of minutes water.

I need to take a sick day from work today: I"m sick of this leak!

I'm going for a new strategy after work today. Since I've concentrated all my efforts on sealing the window frame edge, sealing the rivets I'm going to tape off the roof seams and clearance light above. If it still leaks then the leak is lower.

When running the water just on the rear street corner of the trailer the leak shows itself pretty fast. I'm worried there is a build up of water on a frame member.

Going to AirMidwest rally this weekend. After, trying today afterwork I'll have to wait when I get back from the rallyto continue.

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Old 04-13-2017, 11:19 AM   #74
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When faced with the same problem, I finally surrender and found a local dealer with a "SealTech" machine. They pressurized my rig, sprayed it with soapy water, marked all the leaks with a grease pencil and then, when dry, went back a sealed all the problem areas.

Costs about $200. Less than therapy or an adequate supply of good bourbon...
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Old 04-13-2017, 11:56 AM   #75
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I had the Sealtech service performed but they didn't find any areas around the rear windows or the roof seams that showed a leak. They found a couple of other leaks lower down. They thought the leak and been repaired after thoroughly soaking the rear end. It wasn't until I got home with the trailer and it rained hard one night I saw the leak coming down the bug screen. Rather than drive back down to Texas I've decided to take a crack at it myself. If I strike out this summer, I'll take it back down and have them remove the rear cabinet over the dinette.

I've reached out to Airstream for drawings showing the framing structure to see if that will help localize the leak.

Kelvin
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:13 PM   #76
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Geez, the leak from hell...

Good luck!
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:27 AM   #77
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Yesterday after work I taped up the roof seam that runs from the roof vent down the side to just behind the street side canopy. This seem marks the junction point of the rear end cap and the main body. I also taped up the seam that runs down the rear from near the vent down to the rear window. I set up the spray, as shown in the photo and went inside, with a beer and the TV on, and waited. The day before when I did this, but without the taped seams, the leak appeared within 10 minutes. This time after 45mins no water appeared from the screw head above the window.

I decided to treat both areas rather continue testing. I removed the duct tape and taped off the seams and applied Acryl. The Acryl didn't set up as fast, I guess because the sun was setting, and I was able to smooth it with a gloved finger and pull the tape without the Acryl sticking.

Then I bathed each rivet with Capt Tolley's. There a a few rivets that look suspicious but I didn't notice any wicking action, unless I can't recognize it. It wasn't like the Capt just disappeared down a hole. For the few rivets that look suspicious I also hit them with a dap of Parbond rubbed in with my finger then cleaned off around the rivet.

We are off to the AirMidwest Rally in Branson today after work so I won't be able to test out anything for several days, unless it rains in Branson.

Kelvin
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:51 AM   #78
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It rained heavy on Sunday morning in Branson. No leak coming down the screen during time it started raining, maybe 8:30am and when we left about 10:30am. Drove the short drive back to Nixa, the rain stopped, backed the trailer into the driveway and went to inspect the screen. Darn, a small drop was showing on the street side of the rear window bug screen.

Here is the strange part. Whenever it has leaked before the water was clear. This time it was milky white. Could it be some Capt Tolley's had mixed with the water in the leak or maybe a rivet isn't sealing using it and rain water mixed with some that hadn't solidified. It had be two days so you think any excess that dripped inside would've solidified.

So I pulled off the day/night shade and bug screen. I ran the water like in the above post and the leak was reproduced in less than 15 minutes. Taped off the end cap roof seam, still leaked. Taped off the street side center roof segment seam and the leak didn't show until about 30 minutes. Hmm, the leak may have multiple sources.

I decided to remove enough tape to expose 6 rivets at a time from the center roof panel seam and the was able to reproduce the leak after exposing the 2nd set of 6 rivets. Instead of using Capt Tolley's and decided to use gray Trempro and filled in all of the rivets head gaps. I was able to clean up around the rivet heads. Decided to call it a night.

Rain, early this morning. When I head out to work I'll check the trailer for the leak and report the results in the next post.

Kelvin
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:12 AM   #79
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Kelvin,

Sorry to get into this conversation so late, I had a leak in the exact same place fixed under warranty. Took the dealership three tries. What finally found the source was the bubble machine. They didn't have it the first two times.

I had residual water drip afterwards for a day and the first time I moved the trailer. Since then I've not seen any evidence of water in spite of some very heavy rains.

This could be happening to you?

They didn't tell me where the source was, just that it was not where they expected it to be. Checked paperwork, doesn't say.

Matti
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:24 AM   #80
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While I understand, minimizing the visual aspect of the sealing, these tend to have a lot of flex and vibration, especially the rivets, too thin a bead will not allow enough flexibility within the seal and could allow it to break contact, even the stress of stepping on the step could be enough flex (is your door at this end)

Think, whenever you used the duct tape it worked to stop it, maybe a larger bead would be necessary. Another thing to think about, you mentioned applying 6 inches at a time, to smooth it before it cures, if it cures too much before the next section is applied, you've just created a butt joint where it isn't blended together, like if the paint dries before you get the next section and then you've got a dark spot where it overlapped.

This might be time to buy a friend a beer and have another set of fingers beading and cleaning while the other applies so it can remain continuous.
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