|
05-30-2012, 07:59 PM
|
#1
|
1 Rivet Member
1975 29' Ambassador
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 16
|
Cutting and repairing aluminum skin
I have a leak in the back near the tub/shower and the only way I can see to get to it is: 1. remove tub/show or 2. cut a hole in the exterior. Solution number 2 seems the most logical.
I'm searching for the best way to cut and repair the skin, making it the least noticeable it can be.
I'm pretty handy with tools and a little mentoring goes a long way here. Anyone willing to help a rookie?
bd
|
|
|
05-30-2012, 08:14 PM
|
#2
|
Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
|
Cutting a hole in the skin would be your last resort. I'm sure people with '75's will chime in here, but don't start cutting until you hear from them! I had a '76 Overlander at one time, and the previous owners cut a hole in the tub to repair the faucet (I think). They repaired the tub with a patch, which was well done. However, after having a few AS's, I wouldn't care to have a patch anywhere if it were possible to fix the problem without cutting the skin or the tub.
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
|
|
|
05-30-2012, 08:16 PM
|
#3
|
Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
Currently Looking...
McHenry County
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,171
|
Center or Rear bath?
The larger units I've seen with the rear bath have an access panel inside the rear hatch for the sink and tub water lines. The tub drain can be inspected by dropping the rear belly skin.
Tom
__________________
|
|
|
05-30-2012, 09:26 PM
|
#4
|
4 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan
, Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
|
I agree that cutting the skin should be your last resort. The leak could likely come from the top. Maybe around the AC unit. If you cut into the skin you could likely find that the leak is above where you cut. The water will find it's way all over the place once it gets into the skin. Try patching various areas with aluminum tape (around the AC, seams, etc) and then running the hose over it. Take the tape off and repeat. If it leaks after you take it off you found the leak. There are only so many seams to check... Don't cut your airstream:-)
|
|
|
05-31-2012, 05:03 AM
|
#5
|
Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
|
I think you should make it clear to us whether this is a plumbing leak or a leak when it rains (I assumed plumbing leak).
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
|
|
|
05-31-2012, 05:59 AM
|
#6
|
Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
|
The rivets can be drilled out and skins removed, then re riveted in place, using olympic rivets. The skins are part of the structure, cutting and patching is generally not a good idea.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
|
|
|
05-31-2012, 06:57 AM
|
#7
|
1 Rivet Member
1975 29' Ambassador
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 16
|
leak is definitely in the shower area
The access panel does not give me access to the leak only to the lines running to it. The leak is coming from the corner panel area on the rear passenger's side of the airstream (rear bath on '75 Ambassador). It is either from the water line or the faucet. I can't tell. I can see it when I shine a light from the closet just on the other side of the shower, to peek behind there. It's a massive leak.
I had two leaks that somehow occured over the winter, even though I winterized it and we had a VERY MILD winter, hardly even freezing here in Oklahoma.
I cut the two copper (main) lines running from the access panel area that go along the shower side of the airstream and ran braided hose up to the sink and reattached there.
The leak I'm referring to now wasn't showing up till I did that. Not sure what happened or exactly how to fix it.
Any suggestions?
|
|
|
05-31-2012, 07:22 AM
|
#8
|
Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
|
The inner panel over the tub is removable. Try taking either that or the shelf above it off to access the tub faucet. Do not cut a hole in the skin to repair a plumbing leak!!!!
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
|
|
|
06-01-2012, 06:43 AM
|
#9
|
1 Rivet Member
1975 29' Ambassador
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 16
|
OK--I will not be cutting the skin--but do need to get the shower panel off
Thank you for all the suggestions/comments. I did not know you could take a panel off above the tub to get access behind there to reach the plumbing.
Our owner's manual is quite vague on how to use the Airstream functionally.
If there is a person willing to share this information I would be eternally grateful.
The plumbing leak is definitely coming from the faucet area near the tub.
Desperately, I had considered cutting a nice rectangle out of the ledge above the tub and making a door out of it in case it happened again. That way I'd have easy access.
Anyway, if the panel can be removed, I'm willing.
Thank you again for helping.
Bambid
|
|
|
06-01-2012, 06:48 AM
|
#10
|
Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bambid
Thank you for all the suggestions/comments. I did not know you could take a panel off above the tub to get access behind there to reach the plumbing.
Our owner's manual is quite vague on how to use the Airstream functionally.
If there is a person willing to share this information I would be eternally grateful.
The plumbing leak is definitely coming from the faucet area near the tub.
Desperately, I had considered cutting a nice rectangle out of the ledge above the tub and making a door out of it in case it happened again. That way I'd have easy access.
Anyway, if the panel can be removed, I'm willing.
Thank you again for helping.
Bambid
|
Removing that panel involes removing the aluminum extrusion over it, probably all the way around the bathroom. After you remove that, you should see a few (2 or 3) rivets or screws holding the panel in place against the inner skin.Remove the extrusion between the panel and the piece with the faucet in the same manner. Cut the caulk, and, watching for additional fasteners somebody may have added, lift the panel out. There should be a piece of plywood attached to the panel under the panel, be careful with it.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
|
|
|
06-01-2012, 07:17 AM
|
#11
|
Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
|
Here is a scan and directions for taking the bathroom apart. I think the pieces that Terry is telling to take off are 5, 6 & 7. There is a plastic insert in the aluminum channel that has to be slid out first. If you are lucky yours won't be brittle and break. Mine came out in about 300 pieces.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|