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Old 03-27-2007, 07:57 PM   #161
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Hey Crusty,

Thanks for posting that technique. I have used it a lot in finding small leaks in a variety of RVs.

I'm sure others here will benefit from it, and karma to you!
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Old 04-05-2007, 11:39 AM   #162
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How to Assemble Acryl-R Caulk Gun

Got my shipment of Acryl-R, Vulkem and Parbond from Airstream today. There were no instructions with the applicator for the Acryl-R. Can anyone help out with how this goes together?

I see how the gun goes onto the can and how the nozzle attaches to the gun. What about the other springs and parts??? The box was already opened, so I want to make sure all the parts are there.
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Old 04-05-2007, 06:37 PM   #163
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I've never broken mine down that far, but I'll dig it out and see what goes where and post back in a day or 2 .
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:02 PM   #164
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Boys, I sure appreciate this thread. Taking the 34' 1983 Silver Streak to a shop tomorrow where we'll get the forklift up to remove/replace/repair all that penetrates the roof. Used VTS to have extra Parbond on hand, and will use one of the polyurethane sealants on the big stuff.

Looking forward to trying the 3M pinstripe remover wheel mentioned early in this thread.

Allow me to pass along what I've been using (among other tools) to remove silicone from this anodized skin: wandering through WEST MARINE one day I came across plastic razor blades (with holder) that work like a champ. Cheap, and each blade seems to last a few feet before needing to reverse or change.

I realize that adhesion may be quite different between the skin on yours versus mine, but these are slick.
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:39 PM   #165
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I've been replacing existing seals that had been gooped over with clear silicone (which had then split) with Alcoa Gutterseal, and thought I'd share a little bit of my limited experience...

Vulkem is great when you have two pieces you can squash it between. If you're trying to fix a seal on two pieces that are already joined, not so much. I've found the Gutterseal actually does wick into the seams as promised and tends to leave a very good and quite inconspicuous seal. I'm using it around the window frames and hatch openings on mine.

But one caveat - I tried masking off (with blue painter's tape) about 1/8" from the seam on the lower side and right along the edge on the top side, then applying the Gutterseal along it - and it goes on very nicely in a small bead from the tube, usually - but the masking is worse than a waste of time, it actually ruins the seal when you pull it up. Best just to try hard to do it "right" the first time and deal with cleaning up any untidiness when it's dry.

The problem is that the sealant sticks better to itself than to the metal. So if you hit the tape with the sealant, when you pull it off you'll pull the sealant away from the skin or out of the seam. Even trying to cut with a razor along the edge of the tape didn't help - the Gutterseal really wants to stay stuck to itself.

However, the sealant really does seem to go into the seam, and it also seems to level out quite a bit, so even something that looks a little untidy when you put it on will settle into something that looks nicer (so far as I can tell, anyway). So my suggestion is just to carefully apply down the seam without masking and try to clean up any excess once it dries.

Masking seems to work much better with Vulkem, which will tear more cleanly and won't pull out of the seam when you pull away the tape.

Anyway, just a couple of experiences. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, wouldn't be the first time...
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:45 PM   #166
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Before I start resealing, I have to remove this goop. Anyone know what it might be? It seems to have migrated away from where is was originally placed.
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Old 07-09-2007, 06:03 PM   #167
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Don't know what it is....but try a hair dryer or low setting on a heat gun. Don't get the aluminum too hot and scrape off most of it with a smooth edge plastic scraper. Then remove the remaining residue with 3M adhesive remover.

Also try to get it out of the seams where possible to get a really solid bond with your new sealant (hopefully Vulkem or my preference: SikaFlex 221 in grey).
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Old 07-09-2007, 06:37 PM   #168
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Jacob,
If there is ANY silicone residue left it will affect the adhesion of any new sealant. I usually use something like gasket remover to make sure it is clean prior to using Vulkem, Sikaflex or Parbond. BTW the gasket remover WILL eat clear coat

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Old 07-12-2007, 08:00 PM   #169
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I have been cleaning rivets of silicone all afternoon. My "new" trailer has leaks along the seamlines in the front & back. I've already sealed the rear seams, but the rivets still leak. The top & part of the sides were clopped with silicone! I took someone on the forum's advise & bought a dental pick & have them pretty well cleaned up. My question is: I read about parbond for rivets, and alcoa for rivets. What's the difference between the two? I only want to do this job once (if I live another 30 years!). The PO had the rivets completely covered with what I think was Vulkem & then silicone. I'm assuming you only have to get it around the rivet (do you clean up w/mineral spirits & a rag as you go?) I want the option of polishing later & want a clean job. Any advice is welcome! Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-09-2008, 08:27 AM   #170
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I have a leak in my 2005 airstream coming in the roof. Where and what should I start with? From the outside all the calking jobs look pretty sloppy.
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Old 01-09-2008, 12:41 PM   #171
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Where are you seeing signs of the leak on the inside?
What roof appliances are in the same area or nearby (roof vents, skylights, AC, plumbing vents, etc)?
This might help with suggestions on correcting the situation.

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Old 01-09-2008, 04:22 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie33
I have a leak in my 2005 airstream coming in the roof. Where and what should I start with? From the outside all the calking jobs look pretty sloppy.
Charlie33,

It would help if you provided us with a little more info.....like approximate area of the leak.........even though it may be entering from a different location.

First, I would tighten the 4 bolts holding down the air conditioner to compress the gasket a little further. Then, while on the roof, look at the sealant on the vents and fan, around the vent pipes for the drains and waste tanks and around the antenna. I would seal these with Dicor self-leveling roofing sealant.

Next, I would get a can of Acryl-R from your Airstream dealer of the factory store and go over each seam on the roof. If you still leak after that, I would have the trailer pressure tested with smoke or insert a compressor or the exhaust from a lage shop vac into the sealed trailer and with a spray bottle full of soapy water solution, spray it over the roof in sections and look for the bubbles.

Happy hunting!
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Old 01-09-2008, 08:04 PM   #173
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:05 AM   #174
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Sealing Argosy seams

Ok I have read this whole thread and I think I am almost as confused as I ever was. When I start on the exterior of our Argosy, I want to make sure I get everything sealed before I do any painting. Do I remove the paint on the seams first? I know I have to get the rust off the places where the end caps meet the alunminum, and get off any silicone that any POs have put on there. Does the Acryl-R work well on the joins of the two metals? Or should I use Sikaflex or Vulkem? Or Parabond? Someone????has scraped off the paint over most of the rivets, do I seal them, or will the paint itself be sufficient? Can I use a rust remover gel to take off the rust on the end panels? I had thought to do that and then use a wheel to take off any remaing rust. How about a rust inhibitor? Before or after caulking? Will it keep paint from adhering? Are the various calkings paintable?

So far I haven't found any leaks in the interior, but I do want to be sure I don't have any, either. The only thing was a wet patch behind one of the wheel wells after driving 400 miles in a driving rain, and I understand how that should be sealed. Also water came in under the front window in that same storm, I think the gaskets or weatherstripping need to be replaced, but it didn't leak sitting in the driveway in a 2" thunderstorm.

thanks for your input, I am just a newbie at all and I want to get it right the first time. Sandy
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:08 PM   #175
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Sandy,
Take a look at this tread (if you haven't already).
There are numerous links to other threads; all excellant projects to learn from.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474/argosy-stripping-new-paint-34585.html

The "End Caps": I spent a great deal of time researching products that might seal and/or convert rusty surfaces. There are a dozen companies out there that will promise you their product will do a great job priming your galvanized end caps. I don’t think so. The more ethical sales reps and engineers of many companies expressed concern about the galvanized metal vs. non-galvanized.
I followed Boatdocs lead and cleaned / sanded the rusted areas down to shining metal before priming. He and others recommended an epoxy primer and that is what I used for the entire unit.

Sealants: If you look at the photos of our Argosy you will see that I only painted the body. All the window and trim was left unpainted for several reasons. This left us with a three tone paint scheme: silver, mill finish alum., and black.
I cleaned out as much old sealant as possible, taped the trim (see photos) and then painted. Everyone I consulted with recommended applying sealant after painting unless it was absolutely necessary otherwise. Because the color is silver the sealant selection was easy and it matches very well. Parbond is the product we are using the most of (around windows, door, & body molding. The larger sealing needs on the roof (vents and AC) are done with Sikaflex-221.

Hopes this helps,
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:55 PM   #176
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Thanks, I have about decided to use Sikaflex, I can get it locally, and order Parbond. Has anyone had any experience with the PL products, PL sealants, PL Ultimate? It is a polyurethane, I saw it at Lowe's and was curious whether or not it would work. Not buying it until I know. I haven't been able to find much on the net about it except the manufacturer's site.
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:15 PM   #177
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Whoo hoo! Sikaflex and Parbond, both at the same place! Now.........if it will only stop raining.............
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:19 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empresley
Sandy,
Take a look at this tread (if you haven't already).
There are numerous links to other threads; all excellant projects to learn from.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474/argosy-stripping-new-paint-34585.html

The "End Caps": I spent a great deal of time researching products that might seal and/or convert rusty surfaces. There are a dozen companies out there that will promise you their product will do a great job priming your galvanized end caps. I donít think so. The more ethical sales reps and engineers of many companies expressed concern about the galvanized metal vs. non-galvanized.
I followed Boatdocs lead and cleaned / sanded the rusted areas down to shining metal before priming. He and others recommended an epoxy primer and that is what I used for the entire unit.

Sealants: If you look at the photos of our Argosy you will see that I only painted the body. All the window and trim was left unpainted for several reasons. This left us with a three tone paint scheme: silver, mill finish alum., and black.
I cleaned out as much old sealant as possible, taped the trim (see photos) and then painted. Everyone I consulted with recommended applying sealant after painting unless it was absolutely necessary otherwise. Because the color is silver the sealant selection was easy and it matches very well. Parbond is the product we are using the most of (around windows, door, & body molding. The larger sealing needs on the roof (vents and AC) are done with Sikaflex-221.

Hopes this helps,
martin.
I appreciate your input. It really helps. As soon as we get some warm dry weather I think I am going to tackle it.
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:54 AM   #179
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Great thread, read the whole thing. Isadora, where did you find the Sikaflex and parabond?
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Old 06-02-2008, 05:41 AM   #180
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I think VIntage Trailer Supply and Out of Doors Mart carry both of them. I was able to pick some up from my local RV dealership.

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