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Old 07-15-2004, 09:37 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4slice
Hi all,
I've been unable to find Vulkem in my area (no one has heard of it at Home Depot), so I'll order it from Airstreamdreams or other online supplier. Does anyone know where to get Parr Bond--either at a store or online?
www.airstreamdreams.com is my suggestion. Their product is reasonably priced as are their shipping charges (no exorbitant "shipping/handling" charges).

I purchased 2 tubes of Vulkem ($5.95 ea), 1 tube of Parbond ($5.95) and 4 caulking syringes ($.75 ea) for $20.85 plus $6.95 shipping for a total of $27.80!
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Old 09-03-2004, 10:13 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight
Try Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent. It works extremely well and you can get it at Wal-Mart as well.
I'm working on the windows, Herh 1200 series and felt it was critical to remove all the butyle so the glazing bead would seat propertly. Previously I had tried MEK to soften the stuff but it didn't work at all. This time a screwdriver the width of the channel proved effective for the bulk of the removal. I shot the scrapes with Hoppe's No. 9 and Airstream heaven! Dem channels came as clean as a hound's tooth! There's nothing more annoying and frustrating when you're working on something and each step, somethin' happens to thwart your effort.

Dwight, I reached a great sense of accomplishment with your pearl of wisdom and I thank you for posting it. And I didn't break any glass this time either! Course gettin' the glass away from the butyle is another matter altogether.
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Old 09-03-2004, 02:07 PM   #63
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Just for clarification. The info I am going to share is for newer coaches. I spoke with the factory and the only place they really still use Vulkem is in the wheel wells. I was told by Jackson Center that they use Silkaflex everyplace else. I believe they told me (don't hold me to this) that they use to use Vulkem in a lot more places on the coach, but if you have a newer coach, you have Silkaflex in every sealed area of the coach except for the wheel wells.

As for a good tool to get into the seams....try a fair size suringe. It works, but you have to have some strenght to keep pushing the stuff through the small opening, but it fits very nicely in some of the gaps on the coach. Used it on an SOB, worked very well. Hands hurt from all the stress, but clean, neat and complete job.
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Old 09-03-2004, 10:22 PM   #64
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I much prefer the Vulkem over the Sikaflex. I returned all my Sikaflex and exchanged it for Vulkem today.
I found that the Sikaflex dries quickly, too quickly for doing hour long jobs. It's probably great for a team of workers to quickly assemble a body, but if you're making repairs and need a little time to align things etc, the Sikaflex will harden and no longer squeeze through rivet holes. It won't flow in between sheets when it hardens, causing more additional work than what it's worth. They claim a 24 hour pot life,but that's bogus.
Par-bond is great for sealing windows and seams that are not disassembled.
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Old 09-04-2004, 05:43 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
I much prefer the Vulkem over the Sikaflex. I returned all my Sikaflex and exchanged it for Vulkem today.
I found that the Sikaflex dries quickly, too quickly for doing hour long jobs. It's probably great for a team of workers to quickly assemble a body, but if you're making repairs and need a little time to align things etc, the Sikaflex will harden and no longer squeeze through rivet holes. It won't flow in between sheets when it hardens, causing more additional work than what it's worth. They claim a 24 hour pot life,but that's bogus.
Par-bond is great for sealing windows and seams that are not disassembled.
Uwe,
Sikaflex is a brand name like Ford or Chevy. They make many different types and formulations of caulking. Two that we use in the architectural metals industry are the 200 series polyurethane (they make several different formulations) and IIRC a 500 series that is a non drying butyl sealant. I wonder if maybe you got a quick setting formulation? FWIW I prefer the Vulkem and Parabond also. It has stood the test of time. The best metal caulks on the market only have a life expectancy of 20-25 years max under ideal conditions, after that you are on borrowed time. Taking into consideration the enviornment that we use the caulking in on our Airstreams is probably one of the more severe; not only are we hitting the temperature extremes, but we are vibrating and flexing it on an extreme basis. That fact that it lasts at all is a tribute to its durability.

Aaron
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Old 09-13-2004, 12:03 AM   #66
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Hi guys,

As fall is setting in quickly in the great white north, I would like to get some ParBond and Vulkem on the seams before winter. Stripping and polishing is in the long-term plans, but I've got to stop the leaks at all four corners asap. Since I plan to strip the clear and polish one day, should I be stripping it now at the seams before the caulking goes on, or can I apply the caulking over the clear (and not worry about there being clearcoat under the caulking)? Also, how does the stripper react with the Parbond and Vulkem?

Your advice is appreciated.

Gary H.
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:40 AM   #67
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Holy Crap! I've got a headache now! My "new" 70 Overlander has lots of places that could let water in. This weekend, I picked up a piece of plexi to replace my broken rear window with, and picked up a bunch of "Seamer Mate" from Lowes. It's guaranteed to permenantly seal metals, plastics, etc... and specifically says it's good with Aluminum. It comes in an Aluminum color, which is a plus too.

Anyway, I put my window and frame together with the stuff, and started sealing holes, windows, etc... with it. Was going to jump on the roof and use it up there too. Will this stuff work, or not?
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Old 12-09-2004, 05:41 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
perusing through the threads, I'm wondering: should I pro-actively seal all the seams on my "new" ('73) trailer, or just large gaps or known leaks? (there aren't any that I know of...yet, except perhaps a sloppy sillicon job around the front window). I'm reading that vulkem needs to be run in a rather thick bead....I can't imagine how that would look running up and down the trailer (yuck). Or is there some method for getting it into the seams, making it more or less invisible?

What is this "par-bond" stuff, and where do I get it?

what about the alluminum gutter/flashing caulk available at HD?
Has anyone ever considered covering a leaking seam with that metalic tape used for sealing air conditioner ducts. I am not talking about "duct tape" which would look awful, but that silver metalic tape, with the removable adhesive backing. I think the tape may actually be aluminum. It seems that it would blend in well with the trailer since they are the same color and the adhesive is very strong.
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Old 12-09-2004, 06:02 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dryan
Has anyone ever considered covering a leaking seam with that metalic tape used for sealing air conditioner ducts. I think the tape may actually be aluminum. It seems that it would blend in well with the trailer since they are the same color and the adhesive is very strong.
Aluminum tape (yes, it is really aluminum) should be carried in the toolbox of every Airstream. It's very strong, watertight if applied to a clean, dry surface, and adheres very well even in heat and cold. Use it like you would duct tape.

But even though it may hold up for several years, it should not be considered a permanent repair. And then there is the problem of getting a good seal around and over the rivets. Besides, the difference in sheen would be quite noticable.

Mark
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Old 12-09-2004, 06:56 PM   #70
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Parbond vs Alcoa gutter seal

Before I heard about Parbond, I purchased a few tubes of Alcoa gutter seal based on what I have read here.

I did not really like how it looked when it was applied. I turned kinda green

But I don't want to buy any parbond if its basically the same as the alcoa as they are both gutter sealer products.

BTW is this parbond the right stuff?
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Old 12-09-2004, 07:34 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Before I heard about Parbond, I purchased a few tubes of Alcoa gutter seal based on what I have read here.

I did not really like how it looked when it was applied. I turned kinda green

But I don't want to buy any parbond if its basically the same as the alcoa as they are both gutter sealer products.

BTW is this parbond the right stuff?
Yes, that is Parbond. I've always used the clear - and it remains crystal clear. It seems to be an excellent product.

Mark
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Old 12-09-2004, 07:36 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j54mark
Yes, that is Parbond. I've always used the clear - and it remains crystal clear. It seems to be an excellent product.

Mark
How does it compare to Alcoa Gutter Seal?
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Old 12-09-2004, 09:09 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Safari Tim
How does it compare to Alcoa Gutter Seal?
I have no idea. Parbond works. It flows nicely into a seam. The price is not excessive. It is easy to remove once dry should you wish. I really don't know of any negatives.

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Old 12-09-2004, 10:36 PM   #74
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Thanks Mark.

I'll give it a try.
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:22 PM   #75
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I hope it does because I have used 2 tubes on mine. Around windows, everywhere and its silver/grey in color seem to have worked very good for me. Only time will tell. Let me know what you have found out from other members
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Old 06-06-2005, 08:10 AM   #76
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The website address for Amtexchemicams is http://www.amtexchemical.com/pages/8/index.htm
This will take you directly to their silicone removal page for RV's.
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Old 06-08-2005, 01:34 PM   #77
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Question

Greetings,

I have a 1964 Globertrotter. I'm resealing most of the seams in a judicious manner. Waiting for the vulcum and parbond to arrive. I'm also testing a silicone based caulk designed for aluminum, temperature, flexibility, and long range performance. Time will tell.

I ran across a tool used for finishing caulk. It's just a small piece of square plastic designed to run along 90 degree surfaces. I got it from a tech who was installing my corian countertops. It works great for silicone based caulk. I think it sells for around $1 at Home Depot. It's called "Homax - Caulk Finisher". It skims across the surface removing bulk caulk and leaving a small, hard to see, bead. I would recommend it to anyone doing finishing caulk work. Goodluck!
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Old 07-31-2005, 08:40 AM   #78
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hi- just used some vulkem to seal/install the vistaview glass up against the frame, and was wondering if/when the vulkem will set up to be somewhat hard? A day later and it is still rather soft and gooey, I don't dare take out the shims holding the glass in tight. There's not much info on the tube- thanks.
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Old 07-31-2005, 09:12 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
hi- just used some vulkem to seal/install the vistaview glass up against the frame, and was wondering if/when the vulkem will set up to be somewhat hard? A day later and it is still rather soft and gooey, I don't dare take out the shims holding the glass in tight. There's not much info on the tube- thanks.
I would leave the shims in for at least a week. Vulkem is fairly slow curing and will never really get hard, soft but not gooey either. I don't Know which one you used but Tremco is the manufacturer and if you run a search on their site you can get a PDF giving you specific information. Also after you remove the shims you really should replace them with something that will remain permanently. I used a clear 3/8" water hose for mine.

Aaron
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Old 07-31-2005, 05:25 PM   #80
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hi- will do. I must say that this vulkem stuff is a little unpleasant to work with, gooey, messy, and icky. I won't touch the window for a week or so, I've got plastic sheeting over the whole thing anyway for any rain we might get. thanks- tim
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