Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

[girlscan2]

I second this question - is this still the recommended product??? Any new info on this?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by girlscan2

I second this question - is this still the recommended product??? Any new info on this?

Recommended....not sure.

This is still what I use for any narrow gap leak repair.

Bob

[Aviator]

I am still happy with it. None of the leaks sealed by the Capt. have started leaking again. I did, however, use it for the narrowest of leaks. If I could visually see the crack, I used the above Acrul-R.

[AlumaBorg]

Thanks for the follow up!

[girlscan2]

Great! Thanks for the update.

[girlscan2]

GRRR - I have a persisten leak in the back that I THOUGHT I had fixed but apparently not after taking a look today (from rain last weekend.) I thought it was the seam where the dent is showing in this picture. What else could it be??? Or is it probably still that area that I need to take the seatant out of and try again? Again I say GRRR!

Thanks for your advice (PS I know I have the cart before the horse here; wishful thinking

[ROBERT CROSS]

I would....

Remove the belt molding, inspect, clean, repair as needed,(dent) and reseal.
Pay close attention to the belt rivets, panel seams, tail-lamp bezels, clearance lights.
FWIW...new style belt molding is available.

Bob

[girlscan2]

Thanks Bob! Is there a thread that tells how to remove and repair? The more I read the less I know.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ml#post1239338

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by girlscan2

Thanks Bob! Is there a thread that tells how to remove and repair? The more I read the less I know.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ml#post1239338

gs2,

On a quick search this one came up, a little time in the search bar may find one that better fit's your yr & model.


Bob

[rogerdodger]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

I would....

Remove the belt molding, inspect, clean, repair as needed,(dent) and reseal.
Pay close attention to the belt rivets, panel seams, tail-lamp bezels, clearance lights.
FWIW...new style belt molding is available.

Bob

Cheryl, I had similar damage as you, I removed the metal belt line molding by drilling out the rivets, straighten the panel from the bottom using something flat, maybe a little tapping from the outside with a rubber mallet, replace molding sealing with Trempro. It's a little work, but worth the time. Also, taillights and upper moldings, remember, water runs downhill, and it is hard to find the leak because it may be closer to the roof than you thought.

[girlscan2]

Thanks Roger. You may be right about the leak being higher than I considered. There is some sort of black sealant (looks much like cured tar; see pic in this thread #26) around the lights and rear plate. It's old and cracked and looks like it should be removed. I chipped some of it off but not nearly to the metal. I appreciate all the comments/suggestions.

[Wazbro]

Also when you have that trim off seal where the plate on the top of the bumper meats the trailer, very, very common place for leaks (especially with the damage shown in your picture).

[girlscan2]

That's what I'm thinking since there is that old cracked black sealant (which I swear looks like roof tar) in that area.

[ALANSD]

I have a leak from the corning window over the bed in my 66. Silicone fix from Inland Andy worked for awhile, but ,maybe this will work longer?
Gonna give it a shot.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Sillycone from Andy? Sockrayblu....I can't believe it's come to this.

Bob

[batman]

Hi cheryl, The photos you posted show the bare ply with everything removed. It is not to hard to drill out the rivets on the bottom sections of your interior skins and remove them. Then you can determine If your leek is there or even higher up behind the end cap. That is where I found mine! Damn Olympic rivets leak like a sieve.
Mine had that black tar like stuff all over the inside of the outside skin also. I think they used it as adhesive for the insulation because it was every where.

Silicon! Never, ever.

[Gary H]

Looking at the pictures that girldcan2 posted i am curious if the new pieces of plywood were installed between the c-channel and the frame. i thought the bolts that go thru the c-channel floor and frame were critical in the whole structure of the camper? If the floor is not there, does it matter?

Gary.

[baylito99]

I read comments about Captain Tolley's Crack Cure and decided to give it a try as nothing else worked.

I am please to say that it does.

I injected in the seams vertical and horizontal and watched the liquid wick in to seams that looked perfectly fine. I marked those areas with blue painters tape. I went over those areas again.

Some areas took two to three applications to seal off. Be sure to wipe off excess material since it will dry and will be visible afterwards.

The areas that took the liquid, I followed up with a small bead of caulking these areas had been leaking for years had stopped.

[dznf0g]

It's great stuff.

[Brawny]

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but seemed appropriate to keep it in the same place.

I have a bottle of Captain Tolley’s that I picked up this summer in the hopes of proactively sealing all the exterior rivets on our trailer. I’ve been procrastinating because I figured the bottle opening was too large to allow fine control over placement. I picked up some syringes at Lee Valley yesterday.

My plan is to apply Captain Tolleys with a syringe and any rivets where it wicks underneath I’ll mark with a dot from a sharpie marker. Once I’ve done to whole trailer, and assuming I have the energy left, I’ll go back around and re-treat any with dots. Whole process should take less than a week if I keep at it and our vacation travels don’t get in the way!