Originally Posted by KJRitchie
Cow hoofs? Who would've thought. What about any of the plastic tools you can find in a home improvement store?
Not really looking to go online for this sort of thing.
How much of the original caulk to remove. On the rub rail the caulk is level with the top of the rub rail. Do I try to get most of it out before I tape it off?
Sorry, this will be my first attempt at resealing my Airstream. Don't want to screw up the adjacent aluminum.
Keep the suggestions coming.
Kelvin, I use hooves and I posted that here on this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ml#post1625109
For the thin cracks and tight spots I use a bamboo chop stick (I like the ones with a square end) that I sharpen with a knife and sand paper.
That gray film you see on the sealant, can most likely be removed with a little Mineral Spirits, it will not harm the clear coat.
I agree it is a good idea to have it pressure leak detected, especially if it is local.
Here is the best thread on sealants that I have seen: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ry-116214.html
Leaks are a real pain!
Mine was leaking like Niagara Falls though some Olympic rivets and running down between the skins and poring out the window frame. Some PO replaced an end cap panel and did not use sealant. I ended up removing the panel, sealing with TremPro 635 and Buck rivet the panel back in place. Then the the rivets all got Capt. Tolley's Creeping crack cure up top and a coating of rubber paste on the under side. Boom no more leaks.
I hope your journey is much shorter than mine.
Best of luck with your leak.