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04-26-2005, 10:50 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Milton
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 12
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70's weather stripping
I have searched but found nothing about the weather stripping for the 70's trailers. It is no longer available from Airstream. This is a special U shape (kind of) with a flat bottom. Any ideas?
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04-26-2005, 11:00 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1968 17' Caravel
2005 30' Safari
Somewhere
, roaming America
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,095
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It's readily available from Airstream dealers and other parts suppliers. For installation tips, search this forum with the word "weatherstripping".
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04-26-2005, 02:49 PM
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#3
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a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
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Check with Oasis RV they sell it by the foot and will ship it to you.
Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pensacola
I have searched but found nothing about the weather stripping for the 70's trailers. It is no longer available from Airstream. This is a special U shape (kind of) with a flat bottom. Any ideas?
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08-28-2008, 12:39 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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Hi- I have a '72 that currently has house-hold type foam window gaskets on the windows, and worn-out rubber gasket on the door jamb, NOT the door. I finally had the extra money to get 80' of the 2-fin type original rubber gasket material and want to install it correctly. I'll post 2 pics of how the door gasket was when I got the trailer, and would love for someone to post a close-up pic of how it SHOULD be done on a '72. I'd also love to see a good pic of correct installation on the window- does the short fin glue down to the window frame, butted up against (and also glued)to the right angle of that frame? Thanks for any and all pics, they help me to understand orientations of things. -tim
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08-28-2008, 12:44 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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I think Andy is recommending the "D" profile gasket material for this year of trailer. You can see it on his website.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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08-28-2008, 01:21 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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True enough, but I understand that the 2-fin is the original style, works well, and it is what I bought. So- any good pics of correct orientation/installation, both for the windows and the entry door? Thanks- tim
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08-28-2008, 02:44 PM
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#7
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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don't have a pic handy, but it goes on the window "sash" so that the fins point "out", away from the glass. same thing on the door...fins point "out".
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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08-29-2008, 08:01 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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OK- fins out. On the windows, it looks like the gasket fits into the right-angle corner of the frame, but where does it go on the door? It actually seems to work fine where it is, tucked into the corner of the jamb- I'd like to see a good pic from somebody showing it attached to the door. Anybody got a pic of their '72 (or so) door? - tim
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08-29-2008, 08:11 AM
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#9
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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It goes on the door in the exact same way it goes on the windows.
I can try to get a pic for you tomorrow. (at work right now).
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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08-29-2008, 08:34 AM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 375
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I purchased all my weatherstrip from Inland RV and they furnished me with a handy illustration. I hope they do not mind me sharing it.
Weatherstrip installation.pdf
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08-29-2008, 02:29 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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Chuck and Vhord- Thanks! The illustration was exactly what I needed to see, I didn't get one from InlandRV like you did. That makes doing the windows completely clear. As far as going on the door, I guess it's supposed to glue right on the very outside edge, even though there appears to be some rivet heads or something kind of in the way in some places? I wonder why it is better to have it mounted here, rather than on the jamb like how I got it- any ideas? I always like to understand WHY procedure "A" is better than procedure "B", just my nature. Now all I have to get is a wire brush for a drill, and/or solvent, and I'm ready to git'er done. Thank you both for the no-nonsense tips on what was quite possibly a dumb question! Also, thanks to Balrgn for his pm's, hope he's having a great Labor Day weekend out in his AS! -tim
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08-31-2008, 08:29 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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So- anyone got a pic of their 70's door with the gasket correctly installed? What happens at the hinge area- isn't that kind of leak prone? -tim
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08-31-2008, 10:10 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
So- anyone got a pic of their 70's door with the gasket correctly installed? What happens at the hinge area- isn't that kind of leak prone? -tim
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Look at the drawing that was posted. http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...3&d=1220020353
It shows how the gasket is installed on the door frame.
Install the gasket the same way at the hinge area, and hope for the best. Unfortunately, that's all that a person can do.
The "D" gasket does a better job, especially at the hinge, since it seals tighter.
Andy
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09-01-2008, 02:16 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
Hi- I have a '72 that currently has house-hold type foam window gaskets on the windows, and worn-out rubber gasket on the door jamb, NOT the door. I finally had the extra money to get 80' of the 2-fin type original rubber gasket material and want to install it correctly. I'll post 2 pics of how the door gasket was when I got the trailer, and would love for someone to post a close-up pic of how it SHOULD be done on a '72. I'd also love to see a good pic of correct installation on the window- does the short fin glue down to the window frame, butted up against (and also glued)to the right angle of that frame? Thanks for any and all pics, they help me to understand orientations of things. -tim
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Looks like the PO or whomever, when they installed the Dead Bolt, opt'd to put the strip on the door, rather than piece it around the jamb lock and Dead Bolt. Does it work well for you?
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
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09-01-2008, 05:43 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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The gasket on the door was that way when I bought it, I installed the deadbolt after I got the coach. And yes- it seems to function perfectly well that way, I've never seen a leak from it. It just seems to be more out of the way in that position, tucked into the corner of the jamb. So- I don't know which way I'll put the new gasket on yet. Speaking of which- so far (2 windows) I'm not super impressed with the adhesion qualities of the 3M glue that came with the gasket from InlandRV. By the time the glue is tacky on the last bit glued, the very first stuff glued is almost too dry- and I too did exactly as directed on the back of the tube: a thick, uniform coat on each surface. It especially seems to not adhere super well to the gasket: I noticed on a little test piece of gasket I glued onto some cardboard that, a 1/2 day later, if I wrenched the gasket off, it separated cleanly from the glue beneath! I sounds like you (Balrgn) spread another layer on the metal before "contact"- does that help significantly? I also made a jig to hold the gasket while glueing, after struggling to keep the first piece (small window) from adhering to the table, getting dirty, etc.: I ripped a piece of 1/8" plastic I had laying around to about 1&1/2" wide, and then stapled it sideways to a 8' piece of plywood, with about 3/4" of the plastic edge sticking up, on which you can lay the fins of the gasket to hold it for glueing. Helped immensely! But I have to say, this whole thing is somewhat messy, somewhat of a pain in the butt, and somewhat unsatisfying- I don't yet know whatever tricks there are to ensure PERFECT and NEAT adhesion of the gasket. And it looks to me like the PO (or factory) used something other than contact cement- and that stuff held extremely well. Anyway- not the funnest thing I ever did on a vintage AS.... but it looks like it'll work. I also used a spoon handle to press down the gasket, between the fins, after Contact- you can press very hard with it, which seems to help the adhesion. -tim
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09-01-2008, 07:55 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Adhesive
The 3M black adhesive we use, is about the best money can buy.
We have never had a complaint that it did not hold.
Has anyone else had a problem with it not holding?
Andy
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09-01-2008, 08:44 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
So- anyone got a pic of their 70's door with the gasket correctly installed? What happens at the hinge area- isn't that kind of leak prone? -tim
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Ask and you shall receive! Here are pictures of the door of my '72 Tradewind. Judging from the condition of the weatherstripping, it is original and is, as far as I know, correct. Even with it in fairly poor condition, I get no water ingress.
This is the only weatherstripping that is located on the frame itself.
At the hinge with the screen door closed
At the hinge with the screen door open
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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09-01-2008, 08:59 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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I've had a problem with the yellow adhesive but not with the black that Inland recommends. We didn't do a real thick coat - just a consistent smooth coat on both surfaces. Let it dry - then another quick thin coat on the gasket and install it. Sometimes at the cut you'll have to hold it in place for 30 seconds or so - put your cut at the bottom of the window.
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09-01-2008, 10:43 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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[QUOTE=cameront120;611355]Ask and you shall receive! Here are pictures of the door of my '72 Tradewind. Judging from the condition of the weatherstripping, it is original and is, as far as I know, correct. Even with it in fairly poor condition, I get no water ingress.
I see two things that are a problem with the gaskets and/or door.
Someone has installed a gasket at the top of the door jamb.
That suggests that it was done to stop a water leak, because the door is slightly warped.
The door gasket should never be cut at the lower corners. That's a leak area.
Bend the gasket around the bottom corners when you replace it. The only seam you want is at the very bottom of the door.
That seam can be made "seamless" if you apply some of the adhesive to both ends of the gasket at the bottom of the door. Hold the ends apart until the adhesive is dry to the touch. Then stick the two ends together.
I cannot tell anything about the remainder of the gasket, since there isn't a close up photo.
When you replace the door and window gaskets, we recommend using the "D" shaped material, since it does a superior job, over the double flared gasket.
Also, the screen door gasket should be installed all the around the screen door, even in the hinge area.
Andy
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09-02-2008, 08:10 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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Cameront120- Thanks! That's what I was looking for, and I'm going to do the door last so I feel like I know what I'm doing by then. Both Ganglin and Balrgn have suggested adding a 2nd coat of adhesive to the gasket just before Contact, which I will try on the 3rd window. I wonder if the extremely low humidity here in Colorado is the reason for the glue drying out almost too fast, and losing some of it's tackiness-? Andy also has some good tips for installation, though doesn't mention the 2nd coat trick (Nor does the tube instructions, for that matter). Oh well- there are always variables of temperature, humidity, timing, and skill (lack of it) when working with contact adhesives and I guess I'll figure out the best method by the time I'm done! Thanks to all for suggestions and pics- appreciate it! -tim
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