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Old 06-18-2007, 08:05 PM   #1
'67 Safari -Pocket Waffle
 
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1967 22' Safari
Seattle , Washington
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'67 Safari frameless windows weatherstripping

Hello all,

This may have been discussed, but I have been pouring through these topics, and all the weatherstripping discussion seems to concern framed windows.

Is there a difference? Someone suggested the part #108 from Clean Seal, Inc. which is a 1/2" half round or 'D' profile. While this isn't what is on my 67, it looks like it would work.

I would also like to replace the door weatherstripping, and was looking at the products from vintage trailer supply. Am I in the right place?

Lastly, I would like to swap out the large side window on my safari with a salvaged piece of original glass. Can anyone share what is involved?

Any insight would be very much appreciated. The current windows are watertight, but I want them like new to face the weather this fall.

Cheers, Adair
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:29 PM   #2
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I used the kind pictured in profile below from Andy:



It works ok, glued with "monkey snot" into the channel. HOWEVER, then the AS sat for a few months in the sun before we went on our trip in April. Naturally, the AC motor bit the dust (I think it might be capacitors), so open go the windows. Oops. The rubber literally adhered itself to the glass. It's a mess. I guess I'll try to cut them open and rub petroleum jelly (or something) into the rubber to keep it from sticking itself to the glass in the future.


Lynn
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:41 PM   #3
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corning windows

Hi Adair, Take a look here it's a helpful thread. When you search try "corning windows". Lots of info...
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:16 PM   #4
'67 Safari -Pocket Waffle
 
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Thanks for the links and the tips. I knew the information was out there and you saved me a lot of scanning on my small monitor. I'm not fond of the idea of using the oversize double fin gasket. I think I may stick with the D gasket unless someone warns me against it.

Taking the window out sounds like a cake-walk.

Cheers, Adair
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Old 06-19-2007, 03:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adair
Thanks for the links and the tips. I knew the information was out there and you saved me a lot of scanning on my small monitor. I'm not fond of the idea of using the oversize double fin gasket. I think I may stick with the D gasket unless someone warns me against it.

Taking the window out sounds like a cake-walk.

Cheers, Adair
The double flared gasket, "is the original" gasket.

We have tested the "D" gasket and have found it to be superior.

The double flared gasket is also used on your entrance door.

Andy
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Old 06-19-2007, 05:30 PM   #6
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D gasket

Adair, I used the D gasket that Airstream uses on the doors of their current trailers on both my ('67) door seal and window seals. I like it much better than the original style gasket that both VTS and Inland sell. The real plus is not having to glue it on with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (MONKEY SNOT) as it has an adhesive strip on it. You can order it from any Airstream dealer or most RV parts places. I think Andy tested it after I recommended it a few years ago to other vintage trailer owners on the forums. He now recommends it as well. The trick is not to cut it in the corners (as this would allow moisture to get in) just bend it into a small 90 degree turn at the corner and continue around the entire window frame. TIP: a light spray of silicone on a towel and wipe down all the gaskets a few times a year will prevent the gasket from sticking to the glass. Hope this helps you out. There is a thread here (Use the search function) on window gaskets for the '66 thru '68 windows that may answer a lot of your questions. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:11 AM   #7
Mel
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Thanks for the info Ed. I used the double flared gasket on exactly one window, and hated working with it so much, I moved onto another project. That was two years ago. I may just get motivated again now...
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Old 06-20-2007, 09:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGED52
Adair, I used the D gasket that Airstream uses on the doors of their current trailers on both my ('67) door seal and window seals. I like it much better than the original style gasket that both VTS and Inland sell. The real plus is not having to glue it on with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (MONKEY SNOT) as it has an adhesive strip on it. I think Andy tested it after I recommended it a few years ago to other vintage trailer owners on the forums. He now recommends it as well. The trick is not to cut it in the corners (as this would allow moisture to get in) just bend it into a small 90 degree turn at the corner and continue around the entire window frame. TIP: a light spray of silicone on a towel and wipe down all the gaskets a few times a year will prevent the gasket from sticking to the glass. Hope this helps you out. There is a thread here (Use the search function) on window gaskets for the '66 thru '68 windows that may answer a lot of your questions. Happy Trails, Ed
You should not depend on the sticky tape thats on the "D" gasket.

It will not stay in place when used on the entry door especially on the hinge side.

Andy
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Old 06-20-2007, 10:02 AM   #9
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Incentive

Mel, Glad I could help. I installed my D gasket when I put the new windows from VTS in the trailer. I replaced every window {save one} the small one that doesn't open, under the one to the right of the door. They were all either Plexiglas or Lexan installed by the PO years ago to replace broken Corning windows. The two flat windows (front and rear) I had made up by a local auto glass shop and got both for less than one would have cost me from VTS. They are both heat tempered and match the VTS glass perfectly. The gaskets have stayed attached and look just as good now as they did two years ago when I started the restore on the coach. You do have to keep them clean as the silicone tends to catch dust. After cleaning with mild soap and water I dry the gasket and apply a fresh light coat of silicone wiped on with a lint free towel. It doesn't take much and it really keeps the gasket from sticking to the glass. I do this a couple of times a year in the spring and late fall. I am currently modifying a 40 year old house awning (yellow fiberglass 43" by 60") with aluminum frame into my replacement front rock guard. It looks much more like the original rock guards than any of the new ones and keeps the outside looking much as it did when the original (missing) rock guard was installed on the trailer. The awning came off a house that we were updating for re-sale. It had not been cleaned at all since it was installed on the house in 1965. It was covered on the top side with snow moss and mold/mildew and the aluminum had turned dingy from neglect. As soon as I get it all done I will post some pictures. I have to scan them in as I am still in the dark ages and don't own a digital camera. But you would not believe the difference after cleaning and re-gelcoating. The fiberglas looks like new! I have to clean and polish all the aluminum and then install it on the trailer. I removed the original hinge for the missing rock guard. It was attached to the trailer with metal screws that had rusted to pieces. Thank goodness for visegrip pliers! When I install the (new) rock guard I will be using stainless steel screws with Acryl-R on the threads. I am also removing the old locking latch that secured the rock guard during travel. That too has deteriorated any left a rusty streak down the front of the trailer that I must find a way to remove. I bought two new rock guard hold downs like the ones on all the new A/S trailers. I plan on installing them with Olympic rivets if they will work. The 2006/2007 trailers that I have seen only use one pop rivet on the upper hole in the base mount to secure it to the trailer and when you pull on the rubber latch handle it almost wants to pull the rivet out of the trailer. Poor Quality Control on this item I think! Needless to say I want mine attached better. Well this is long winded enough so I will stop for now and get back to work on the trailer... Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 06-20-2007, 10:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
You should not depend on the sticky tape thats on the "D" gasket.

It will not stay in place when used on the entry door especially on the hinge side.

Andy
Andy, Thanks for the info. I will keep an eye on that area... but so far so good. Then again it has yet to be tested on a road trip and my need to be better secured when that happens. (When oh when!) I will post a note on that at a later date. Ed
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