61 Overlander - can not locate leak by back window

[V Pline]

WOW! We are digging into a leak by the back window. We thought we had it fixed - but after installing new flooring - we discovered water! So we are back to square one! Anyone have luck - finding leaks?! Ideas where to look? Any advice would be great!

[Bubba L]

Some resort to air pressure tests. Some RV repair places offer this. Also, I’ve known some who have used a blower (like leaf or squirrel cage) and brushed soapy water on the exterior. Potential leaks would blow bubbles due to forced air from the inside. They would fashion a piece of cardboard at an exterior opening and create a forced air entry point with the blower attached with tape. So, positive air pressure. Water can travel. The leak could be well above your window and traveling. Or, make sure all your rivets and seams are sealed with something like Parbond. Good luck

[samb]

I had a leak at my front window in my '61 Safari. I sealed every seam above the window on the end cap. No more leak. I then sealed the seams on the back end cap as a preventative measure. Going on 8 years ans no more leaks.

Sam

[KyBryanP]

Originally Posted by samb

I had a leak at my front window in my '61 Safari. I sealed every seam above the window on the end cap. No more leak. I then sealed the seams on the back end cap as a preventative measure. Going on 8 years ans no more leaks.

Sam

Hey, what did you use to seal your seams and how did you apply it? Thanks in advance

[samb]

To seal my end cap seams.......... I first removed every bit of the original sealer I could, and as deep as I could. The original sealer was brittle and I was not gentle. I used an old metal "church key". That old fashioned can opener that made the triangular hole in the top of a beer can before pull-tab openers were invented. I raked the pointed end through the seam with a fair amount of pressure. I repeated the process five or six times on each seam until I could see no sign of old sealer. I am sure I even removed some aluminum, but when done each joint was clean shiny I then ran some tape on each side of the seam about 3/16ths of an inch apart with the space between centered on the seam. I used a small bead of grey vulkem smoothed and pressed into the joint with a finger. Then immediately removed the tape. The grey vulkem is hardly visible when finished.

Sam

[Crackerman]

Look for acryl-r. It's a much more invisible leak repair. It comes in a metal can with an oil can type dispenser. Especially if have polished, or will polish, it disappears much more nicely than a wide bread of vulkem or sikaflex.